New RT Custom right out of the box, now what?

[Boltboy]

Okay, so I dont EXACTLY have it in my hands yet - but a boy can dream

Once I DO, however, what are some of the first things I need to do before attempting to break it in (if anything). I took the intelliframe WITHOUT the ULT.

Does AGD set everything up before hand? I know ill have a manual, and always have this site as a resource, but id like to know if ill need to change out any springs, set the lvl 10, add/remove sears, etc. None of this I have experience with, but I'm obviously willing to learn.

Then, once this is all said and done I should load up my 68ci tank and shoot about 2-fills worth (dry fire) through it to break it in, correct?

Thanks,

Bolt

[Z-man]

Hey Bolt,

Sounds like you are off to a good start. I am sure there will be quite a few posts about how you need this or that upgrade but IMO you have a fine setup you are (soon) to have.

I don't think AGD tunes the lvl 10 (speak up if I am wrong) but it's not much of a chore to tune it. Mine actually worked right out of the box with no tuning. I did end up going to the longest spring as it does cut down on chopping the weaker paint (at the small expense of some efficiency).

I suggest that you use or buy (if you dont have one) an agitating hopper of some sort. It's not something that I really need to say in that day and age of paintball but it's just as helpful. You don't have to go all out and get a Halo B or a Q-Loarder (unless you want one) but even the simplest of motorized hoppers are very helpful. I have a high opinion of the Halo TSA series personally but look around.

As for firing off 2K rounds or so just of air, I would not suggest it. I don't think it would cause much harm but all the same its much harder on the bolt and spring when there is no paintball absorbing the force of the air charge. I would just go break it in at your local field. Sounds a lot more fun

[Joni]

Read the lvl10 guide, and make sure you know everything well, it'll help you on the field. http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml
You could also check the Cali thread in my sig.

Most of the breaking in on ULE Customs has to do with the ULT. My lvl10 worked out of the box, but I changed to a longer spring to make it more gentle on paint. It might start to leak down the barrel after a while, which requires a change of the carrier, but mine didn't. All that is stated in the lvl10 guide.

BTW, I didn't receive a manual to my ULE Custom, but you can find the RT manual here. It referes to the classic RT, which has some minor differences, but in most parts it applies (except the lvl10 bolt).

[Chronobreak]

yeah just tune that lvlX if need be then oil and air that sucker up alot

[Big Head]

It comes ready to go!! Everything is preset, and factory tuned.....and it works perfect!!! I've had mine for three months, and the only promblem I've had is the stinking ball detent! Broke at the last trip....that sucked!! Beside that, it is a great marker!!
P.S. Go with a Macro Line kit!! Easier to work on!!

[Boltboy]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the replies. It came in the mail today. Wow, what a great looking marker. This is the first time i've seen a pewter ano up close. Just... wow.

Off with the bike grips and site rail, and now I have one heck of a marker =D



BTW, what did you mean run a macro line kit ? Use a rubber hose instead?
Any ideas on additional upgrades to look for in the future? Obviously this "stock" marker is perfect for what I want, but theres always stuff to consider =P At the moment I have a 14" evil pipe barrel on it, a CP grip, and a CP dovetail/Kapp On/Off (not shown). Ill be running it off a System-X 45/45

Thanks,

Bolt

[Chronobreak]

ooo pics looking great man i just think the silver forgrip grate cover thing takes away from it thrwo it of and put the grip directly on the rail

[Boltboy]

hmm, looking under the grate I dont see anywhere I can run the grip to. The grip screws into something that is attached to the grate, but if u take the grate off, there is no spots to screw in the grip directly.

[Joni]

You have to punch out the predrilled hole in the body rail. You can see if if you remove the body from the rail. Just take something hard and punch through it, and have something to sand the hole with. Then you just attach the vert asa to the rail. Unfortunately you can only attach it with one screw, but I haven't had any problem with the front grip coming loose, just as long as you put some force into that screw.

The result can be seen in my sig.

[shutter13]

just wondering, how the hell did you get into my basement?! haha we have the exact same carpet as you do

nice looking mag... im hoping to get an RTule custom in addition of my omen soon... need $150 more

[deathstalker]

Did it come with a printout from the chrono? I'm always curious what it is when someone gets a new 'Mag. :)

[Boltboy]

Nope, no printout =(

The gun so far is shooting great from what I can see. The trigger pull is heavier than I expected, but not terrible. Ill keep the ULT upgrade in the back of my head but thats another issue (reliability over speed, imo)...

Okay, hopefully I wont have to make a second post for this and someone can help me out. I am short stroking every once in a while. Im still trying to learn this gun so that term doesnt mean much to me outside of what it sounds like. I'm not sure how to fix this issue and ill def do some searches but I had a question related to this:

- Is this a sear related issue? Do I have too many or too little in one area? I dont understand the sear concept to be honest, as ive read that some can be added or taken away. I'm assuming that all of mine are in place atm because no extras were sent with the marker. If I sound retarded because I dont know what im talking about, please put me in my place =D And if it is a sear related issue, what can I do to fix it up a bit?

- Do I have to do something to set the reactive trigger to function correctly? I had someone try it out at the local shop and they mentioned that the RT wasnt set (or so he thought) because it didnt seem to bounce back very well. I didnt notice this, but I also have never shot one of these markers before in the past (RTs specifically).

Thanks!

bolt

[Joni]

You seem to mistake the shims for the sear. The sear is the kind of triangular piece of metal that the trigger pin is attached to. The shims are the thin round pieces of metal in the lvl10. Look at the lvl10 guide, I'm pretty sure it explains what shims is.
Anyway, if you had the ULT, you could adjust the shims to get lesser shortstroking. You only have shims in the lvl10, and if it doesn't leak down the barrel, or you don't get boltstick, they are ok.

Is that an adjustable HPA you have? If you wan't to raise the reactivity (trigger kickback), raise the input pressure. If it's a preset, you could shorten the on/off pin a little (very little), but be careful in that case! If you remove too much, you could get illegal reactivity, or worse, complete runaway (marker won't stop shooting). If that happens, you will have to buy a new on/off pin. Not a catastrophy, since they don't cost very much. Maybe you could buy one before you start experimenting.

Another option is buying the ULT. I promise, it's just as reliable as the standard on/off. You just need to adjust the number of shims, which is a piece of cake, and break it in, which just means shoot a case or two of paint. After that it won't give you a problem, it just wants a drop of oil now and then.

[Boltboy]

haha, yeah, i meant shims

So do you think the short stroking isnt related to the lvl 10, and probably just the break in period?

Thanks btw, really appreciate it.

-Bolt

[Joni]

"real" shortstroking has nothing to do with lvl10, but a mag noob might mistake a lvl10 not tuned correctly for shortstroking. Could you describe exactly what happens? I find RT's really hard to shortstroke, so I doubt that's the problem. The problem with lvl10 could be not lubed enough, too small carrier, too low velocity or too large spring.

Did you have an adjustable HPA? If it really is shortstroking, increasing reactivity might help.