New Rail Old Body question.

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  • djslik
    Your Mom Goes To College
    • Dec 2003
    • 154

    #1

    New Rail Old Body question.

    I am doing a custom project and I am thinking of using either the omega rail, rogue rail, or logic rail as the rail for the gun. I need to get a hold of the cheapest automag body used or new that will fit onto any of those rails. I don't know what works though. Also I need to know which sear can work with which body or does the sear depend on the rail? And does anyone know if classic valve fits onto the rails stated above? I know this is might be confusing but we're trying to finish a school project and I need to know what works. Thanks.
    My sweet marker A.K.A. Dirty Drea
    -Pewter ULE Body
    -Pewter X-Valve
    -Y-grip
    -ULT Trigger
    -Nitroduck X-Stream
    -Bad Habitz Unimount
    -Q Loader System
  • yaddatrance
    Mid-life crisis
    • Feb 2004
    • 218

    #2
    Originally posted by djslik
    I am doing a custom project and I am thinking of using either the omega rail, rogue rail, or logic rail as the rail for the gun. I need to get a hold of the cheapest automag body used or new that will fit onto any of those rails. I don't know what works though. Also I need to know which sear can work with which body or does the sear depend on the rail? And does anyone know if classic valve fits onto the rails stated above? I know this is might be confusing but we're trying to finish a school project and I need to know what works. Thanks.
    A lot of questions so I'll hit it step by step.

    Rail: There are effectively two types of rails, the AM/MM "classic" rail and
    the RT Pro/Emag rail... The primary mechanical difference between the two
    is what sear (and sear pin) it uses.... Since you are looking for a cheap
    body, you will want one which still has the twistlock pin.

    The Omega rail and rogue rail are both RTP/Emag style rails and thus uses
    the threaded pin and the bearing sear. The new Logic "alpha" rail is a
    classic rail design and uses the standard AM/MM pin and sear.

    If you're looking for a cheap body, you will want to avoid rails with ULE
    milling unless you get confirmation that it has provisions for the twistlock
    pin. Whatever the rail, you will also want to make sure it has the rear
    bushing as well.

    Body: Basically, if you're looking for cheap, any non ULE body works fine.
    For the most part you can retrofit any body to any frame. The Emag/RTP
    bodies have a round alignment bump and the AM/MM has a more rectangular
    bump on the bottom... I have sucessfully gotten both to work with either
    frame, but your mileage may vary. I did note that when using a Emag/RTP
    body on a AM/MM rail, you'll have to torque the screw in to properly settle
    the body. The non ULE bodies all require a twistlock assembly to hold
    the barrel in. If you find a cheap ULE body, those are cocker threaded
    and will require you to remove (or not have) the twistlock assembly. You
    may have difficulty getting the standard AM/MM body to work with
    a stock Emag/RTP rail without power tools.

    Valve: The Classic valve will work with all combinations of body and rails.
    Feedback for Yaddatrance

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    • djslik
      Your Mom Goes To College
      • Dec 2003
      • 154

      #3
      Thank you very much for the info...I know it is a lot, but you don't understand how much this helps our project. Now all we have to do is find the parts.
      My sweet marker A.K.A. Dirty Drea
      -Pewter ULE Body
      -Pewter X-Valve
      -Y-grip
      -ULT Trigger
      -Nitroduck X-Stream
      -Bad Habitz Unimount
      -Q Loader System

      Comment

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