I am doing a custom project and I am thinking of using either the omega rail, rogue rail, or logic rail as the rail for the gun. I need to get a hold of the cheapest automag body used or new that will fit onto any of those rails. I don't know what works though. Also I need to know which sear can work with which body or does the sear depend on the rail? And does anyone know if classic valve fits onto the rails stated above? I know this is might be confusing but we're trying to finish a school project and I need to know what works. Thanks.
New Rail Old Body question.
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A lot of questions so I'll hit it step by step.Originally posted by djslikI am doing a custom project and I am thinking of using either the omega rail, rogue rail, or logic rail as the rail for the gun. I need to get a hold of the cheapest automag body used or new that will fit onto any of those rails. I don't know what works though. Also I need to know which sear can work with which body or does the sear depend on the rail? And does anyone know if classic valve fits onto the rails stated above? I know this is might be confusing but we're trying to finish a school project and I need to know what works. Thanks.
Rail: There are effectively two types of rails, the AM/MM "classic" rail and
the RT Pro/Emag rail... The primary mechanical difference between the two
is what sear (and sear pin) it uses.... Since you are looking for a cheap
body, you will want one which still has the twistlock pin.
The Omega rail and rogue rail are both RTP/Emag style rails and thus uses
the threaded pin and the bearing sear. The new Logic "alpha" rail is a
classic rail design and uses the standard AM/MM pin and sear.
If you're looking for a cheap body, you will want to avoid rails with ULE
milling unless you get confirmation that it has provisions for the twistlock
pin. Whatever the rail, you will also want to make sure it has the rear
bushing as well.
Body: Basically, if you're looking for cheap, any non ULE body works fine.
For the most part you can retrofit any body to any frame. The Emag/RTP
bodies have a round alignment bump and the AM/MM has a more rectangular
bump on the bottom... I have sucessfully gotten both to work with either
frame, but your mileage may vary. I did note that when using a Emag/RTP
body on a AM/MM rail, you'll have to torque the screw in to properly settle
the body. The non ULE bodies all require a twistlock assembly to hold
the barrel in. If you find a cheap ULE body, those are cocker threaded
and will require you to remove (or not have) the twistlock assembly. You
may have difficulty getting the standard AM/MM body to work with
a stock Emag/RTP rail without power tools.
Valve: The Classic valve will work with all combinations of body and rails. -
Thank you very much for the info...I know it is a lot, but you don't understand how much this helps our project. Now all we have to do is find the parts.My sweet marker A.K.A. Dirty Drea
-Pewter ULE Body
-Pewter X-Valve
-Y-grip
-ULT Trigger
-Nitroduck X-Stream
-Bad Habitz Unimount
-Q Loader SystemComment
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