Can't for the life of me figure out my mag problem!

[Wizzman]

Ok I am having some seriouse issues with my mag. I will pop off around like 10-15 shots and then will lock up or go dead. If I hit the back of the valve it will fire then shoot off another 10 shots or so. I could only shoot single shots with it. It wouldn't let me snap shoot, I could only shoot a shot like every 2 pulls. I took it to a shop (Paintball Maxx and Brad worked on it who is extremely good with mags. He is listed on agd's website) and had it worked on and he said he pop off about 40 shots and it went dead. Brad said that he thinks it could be that either the frame or the body is bent? I have never heard of something like this before. So he doesn't know what is wrong with it but I am going to put my bros body and frame on mine and see if it will work like that if not I dunno what the issue could be. O yea I forgot to add that I never had any of these issues untill my spring broke in my gun. It was the aluminum metal looking one not the brass or red one. Ever since I changed my spring it has been acting up.

Could anyone give me any ideas? Also what do you think AGD would charge me to send my gun in and have them take a look at it? I have called them and had walk me through steps on fixing it but their fix only worked for a bit.

[Wizzman]

Anyone?

[Walrus]

I'll try, but no guarantees

Is it a classic Mag, ULE, or what and I take it because of the color of the spring you were using a level 10, is that right?

[Cow hunter]

sorta need a description of the setup..... but i had a VERY similiar problem on my mag.... i posted a thread about it, "i have to hit the mag to make it shoot?" they told me it was the ULT, and since i changed it, no problems whatsoever

[REDRT]

Brad is a awesome tech and a great guy. I'd bet he isn't too far off if at all. 2 years ago my brother bought a brand new Rtpro custom from AGD. From the get go it had simular problems that you discribed. The gun seemed to like the field strip screw rather loose to fire half way reliably. When it stoped all he had to do was kind of push up on the back of the valve some. He later put his old karta rail in place of the OEM rt rail and that made a big difference. The alignment seems better using that rail and is now more reliable. Your problem does sound alot like an alignment/fitment issue.

[Wizzman]

Sorry guys I am an idiot I have an rt pro with lvl10 and X-valve with the ult. I think I am going to take my bro's body and rail and try to see if it works. You know what I also noticed when I last cleaned my gun was you know how the valve kind of has a track that it has to follow on thr frame when inserting it back in? Well that track is kind of worn and somewhat bent. That might be the issue...

[athomas]

The track/slot just keeps the valve from shooting out the back when you take the field strip screw out. The field strip screw keeps the valve oriented where it is needed as long as the rail bushing is in place.

If the issues started when the spring broke, then it could be an issue of a jammed oring in the powertube. Remove the carrier oring and replace it with a new one. Retune the level 10. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Test it without any shims in the powertube. You can add powertube shims later but they probably aren't needed anyway.

Make sure all fragments of the broken spring are cleaned out of the body and rail area.

[Walrus]

I think athomas took care of it in that last post.you may also want to think about what would happen if the bolt's plunger got bent when the spring broke. I am not saying that this is the case, but it could have happened.

[REDRT]

The track/slot just keeps the valve from shooting out the back when you take the field strip screw out. The field strip screw keeps the valve oriented where it is needed as long as the rail bushing is in place.

If the issues started when the spring broke, then it could be an issue of a jammed oring in the powertube. Remove the carrier oring and replace it with a new one. Retune the level 10. Use the largest carrier that does not leak. Test it without any shims in the powertube. You can add powertube shims later but they probably aren't needed anyway.

Make sure all fragments of the broken spring are cleaned out of the body and rail area.

I would have to believe if there was a jammed o-ring in the power tube you would hear leaking from the lack of seal do to the bad o-ring. Which wasn't stated. Also I'd suspect Brad did look in the obvious places. With a spring breaking there must be some sort of damage or maybe debris from the spring causing this binding the bolt. Something not so obvious for sure.

[Wizzman]

Yea Brad is a great tech so I am assuming that he did look at the obvious places. I think I am just going to have to send it in to AGD. I do appreciate everyones help and ideas though thanks again... :)

[athomas]

I would have to believe if there was a jammed o-ring in the power tube you would hear leaking from the lack of seal do to the bad o-ring. Which wasn't stated. Also I'd suspect Brad did look in the obvious places. With a spring breaking there must be some sort of damage or maybe debris from the spring causing this binding the bolt. Something not so obvious for sure.

I'm refering to a damaged oring that may or may not be readily apparent. It probably isn't but I hate to leave any stone unturned.


Check for metal burrs inside of the body.

[Wizzman]

Ok got the gun back today from Brad and he said that he did everything to the gun orings everything and couldn't figure out the problem. Soooo I took my bro's frame and put it on my gun and bam it worked wonderful. I am almost positive it is my sear because it looks a little messed up where the rod connects to the sear. The connection is loose as opposed to my brothers which is nice and snug and doesn't wiggle as much. I am going to try and put his sear into mine if it works then, well these my problem...