Whats happening to my airwalk?!

[dyeforever]

thought is should show off what im doing to my V2 airwalk. just need a trigger and piston since i fubard my other one. noid should be here tomorrow. cant wait to start building it.


o yeah specs:
universal t-board
micro rock lpr
V2 airwalk
no eyes crazy i am

[maniacmechanic]

man , thats a lot of wires

[Stayhuge]

man , thats a lot of wires

I agree!!!

[Dawg047]

Yep, alot of wires but tiny board. I guess I am going to have to go EP now that everyone else is. Hope it works good for you.

[dyeforever]

yeah it a whole lot of wires but the board is tiny.

[Hilltop Customs]

It looks like alot of wires, but if you remove the ones your not going to need its alot easier to deal with. No eye wires(4 right there), then you wont need the slapper noid wires(2 more) Use the tip of an exacto knife to remove the wires....dont cut them off, theres a tiny plastic tab that allows the wire and crimp on connector to be removed. If you do it this way you can always clip them back in if you want to put eyes in later on.

I'm jealous of all the space in that frame....it was a PITA to sqeeze that stuff in an I-frame

Post up once you get some more done

[dyeforever]

yeah i was starting to cut the wires but realized i could pull them from the plug. lucky i only cut the slapper noid wires. i will post more pics and updates when i start working on it. thanks for the support.

[Hilltop Customs]

haha I saw the scissors on the side of the pic and was a little bit worried there. I'm glad you just cut the slapper noid wires.


Another tip....take it or leave it....be carefull soldering the led. Try not to get it too hot....and dont try to bend the leads at a sharp 90degree angle. Soldering the LED is probably the hardest part for someone who hasnt had a decent amount of time working with electronics. Avoid excess solder at all costs.....desoldering takes heat, and excess heat isnt good for LEDs.


I used to install mod chips in xboxs so mine was a cake walk

[dyeforever]

thanks for the tip. why should i avoid sharp 90* bends on the led?

[neppo1345]

It looks broken.

[Hilltop Customs]

thanks for the tip. why should i avoid sharp 90* bends on the led?

If you try to make it really sharp, the LED lead can break....Ive had this happen a few times and its a PITA if it breaks right on the LED itself. You can make a 90* bend, just try to make it slightly radiused....not just an L shape. Dont expect the leads of the LED to be able to lay flat on the back side of the LED.....if you try to make it flat it creates a sharp corner where the lead comes out of the LED and will probably break.

if you check my thread you should be able to see the back of my LED, it has about the sharpest bend your going to be able to make without a chance of breaking.

hope that makes sense.

[dyeforever]

ok i see. dont bend it against the led and dont make a harsh 90*.

[dyeforever]

well heres a update pic.

i got the led and battery plug solder up and mounted. now i mounting the membrane. where im mounting the membrane the plug gets in the way of the battery. o well

[Hilltop Customs]

dont know if it will help or not, but If you want to you can solder the wires to connections on the membrane pad. Just take the black connector on the end off, it will reveal 3 places you can get good solder joints. Also if you still want the membrane to be seperable from the wiring harness you could always install a connector closer to the board(I dont think its really necessary).

I didnt have space for the connector so mine is done this way.

[dyeforever]

yeah that what i ended up doing. i cut the plugs off and soldered the wires straight to the membrane. ill get a finish pic up when later tonight.