Emag only firing in M or Hybrid mode...

[Automag ReTro]

So I got some emag lowers today and was super pysched to try them out. Popped in my RTP valve, gassed it up and couldn't get it to fire for the life of me. Ended up switching to a shorter on/off pin and it started firing, although not like it should. It was RT'ing in M mode like it should, but it was double firing in E mode, on semi-auto. After some fiddling around, not really sure what I did, the double firing went away. There also seemed to be no difference between Hybrid mode and pure E mode, E mode has a RT kick back. Also, if I put it in any other mode than semi, it would still only shoot one ball.

This morning I tried using my X-valve with a ULT in it and lots got better. It was still shooting in M mode fine, and in E mode there was no more double firing and when I put it in Auto-Response it worked as it should, although it still feels like the mechanical sear is engaging while in E mode. It seems like the big problem is that it's not shooting in 100% electric mode, there is always some RT going on.

I think I'm gonna order an emag on/off assembly to put in my RTP valve so I don't have to whore out my X-vavle, but any thoughts as to the other issues? Appreciate any help!

[maniacmechanic]

Your on the right path , the E Mag on/off pin is quite a bit shorter & has a quad ring

[OneSelfLost]

Might want to check the length of your trigger rod as well, due to the kickback in E-mode. It should be 2.125".

[athomas]

Adjust your trigger stop so that the trigger doesn't hit the trigger rod when it hits the emode trigger stop. You'll need to adjust the trigger magnet at the same time to compensate for the difference in trigger position.

[Automag ReTro]

Alrighty, looks like I've got everything sorted out except for the tuning of the valve. A couple of things were happening today. While in Semi-Auto in E-mode, it was double or triple firing like it was in burst mode, but it wasn't. Then in mechanical mode if I held the trigger down, it was sprinkler down the barrel. I've got a new quad o-ring in place, so it shouldn't be that. With my Intelli frame on it and normal oring on the on/off pin I have no leaks down the barrel. Hmmmm.....? Also, the velocity seemed crazy, single shots were in the 230's but if it RT'd they were hitting 300 or higher. Again, seemingly none of these problems while using a normal RTP on/off and an Intelli frame.

[athomas]

Does it work properly with the regular on-off oring? It should fire fine with the urethane oring instead of the quad oring. If it does, then your quad oring may be damaged.

A leaking on-off top oring could cause your issues.

[Automag ReTro]

Well after cleaning everything off from today's play, the mag ended up with the mechanical lowers back on it for the time being. I took out the quad oring and put in a normal one and when holding the trigger back there is no leak. However, the first shot before a string is a chuff, then it will fire fine for many shots, until you stop firing for a few seconds, then almost always the first shot back will chuff. I feel like L10 isn't an issue; the bolt resets perfectly after a jam, and after going up to the next largest carrier I had barrel leaks. I'm running no shims as well.

[athomas]

A chuff after sitting for a while is definately a level 10 issue. When you are firing a series of shots, the pressure is a bit higher in the chamber than it is when it sits for a while. This is due to the the heating of the air as the chamber pressurizes. The regulator sets the pressure at this temperature. When it sits, it cools and the pressure drops a bit. If your not using the proper bolt spring for your operational pressure, then you could get a chuff due to having too low a pressure when the air temperature cools. The higher your input pressure is, the greater your heating issue will be.

Ideally, your optimum velocity setting is 20fps above the lowest velocity that the mag will cycle at. Find this low velocity by turning down your velocity setting way down to where the gun will not cycle. Then gradually turn up the velocity while firing the gun. When the gun starts to cycle measure the velocity. This is your starting value. Your optimum operating velocity is 20 fps above this value. If your operating velocity is only a few fps above this value, it would explain your sticking issue. If the 20fps increase puts your operating velocity above the desired limit, you may need to clip your bolt spring.