View Full Version : No mag = No level 10......... But how well would this work?
well the person who said you do your best thinking on the can hit the nail on the head and drove it a foot into the board.....
So I run out of TP and take off the thing that holds the TP...
I notice it slides back in fourth....
What if you made a bolt like that.... so if it hits something in it's path the front half slides back into the main part of the bolt, and the air is let off.
Could it work?
Here are some pictures to go with...
that last one was kinda worth less.
last one here... also as the front part slid back, there could be a release pressure hole in the top of the bolt that gets opened as the front part slides back, and who knows you could have it go into a hose to up to your hopper to have air assist.... so when you jam a ball it gives your hopper a puff of air for help
what you people think...
any chance?
I know there are flaws, and am thinking through them as I fall asleep (and have a few, so if you find one tell me and i might already tell you how, and show you a better picture.)
Thanks a lot
314159
09-03-2002, 09:31 AM
yeah that would work,
you would need to make the bolt head out of something with a little bit of weight behind it (not derlin) to avoid blowback problems.
just rember there is an equal and opisite force pushing the front of the bolt back.
Top Secret
09-03-2002, 05:37 PM
Seems somewhat similar to the idea I had about modifying my stock cocker bolt to be similar to the new anitpinch bolt. The issue it would have is it requires a spring that won't chop the balls, but still have enought force to hold the bolt forward when the air is released without causing blowback.
there are like 20 billion different weighted springs, and sizes.....
I got metal shop enxt semester, mabye I'll give it a try....
If you could find a spring that would give if it came in contact with an object which wouldnt move (like a ball half way in the tube) but wouldnt give if the object gave way... then it should work ok..
vf-xx
09-03-2002, 06:21 PM
isn't the cocker anti chop bolt for the cocker like that?
I do like the idea of having it vent to an air assist.
One thing you need to make sure of is some way to connect the front piece to the back piece so it wont' go flying. having the front piece go flying out could be really really bad. (just ask some superbolt I owners.)
Person
09-04-2002, 01:28 AM
that doesnt look half bad. looks like a lot of trail and error to get it to work. it will not be hard at all to make the front of the bolt stay in.
Vegeta
09-04-2002, 04:29 PM
The problem I see here is simple:
an object at rest tends to stay at rest. an object in motion tends to saty in motion.
when the back part of the bolt starts to move, the spr9ing is going to absorb a load of energy comign off hte back part of hte botl moving foward, there for the back part of the bolt will start moving, but hte front wont right away. Then the enitre bolt travel the front will be depressed in a bit. When the bolt stops the front end on the spring will keep movign forward as hte rear sarts to move back, reversing hte whole thing. Now hte front is sticking out a bit from it's normal position. So the spring is creating 'lag' in the bolt. Some people will say this can be stopped by addign a stiffer spring, but a stiffer sprign will break paint.
My case in being.
so how do we get around the problem vegeta?
Person
09-04-2002, 06:24 PM
a spring loaded ball bearing ... VERY light one to hold the front of the bolt still when it just fires normally. Light enough to come loose if it hits a paintball of course.
can you explain a little more person... im confused
nak81783
09-04-2002, 08:17 PM
I was thinking along the same lines as Vegeta. Plus with the front and rear part of the bolt traveling differently, when the striker hits the pin to open the valve, the holes that let air into the bolt would not be aligned properly. This would obviously cause a poor shot, if it shot at all.
Nathan
depending on spring though i think
if the front part didnt move backwards as the back went forwards, it could easily be lined up perfect....
nak81783
09-04-2002, 08:51 PM
The only way that could be possible is if the bolt was one solid piece. It has to do with the Calculus of limits. Kinda like the fact that you can never pull a rope on its two ends tight enough to make it perfectly straight. There will always be some trivial lag in the rope. Similarly, the spring will pick up a little lag (compress slightly). If you made it too tight that the air alignment displacement would be negligible, I'm sure it wouldn't accomodate a paintball in it's way. The spring tension would be too tight.
Nathan
thought I'd bring this up,
I geuss some guy over at PBR actually made one... I read nothing of his tread, just saw pictures so dont know if his worked or not...
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=880783#post880783
Person
12-01-2002, 04:45 PM
Well, to make the front of the bolt stay still you can use a ball lock, like on the twist lock on automags. I just remembered that it would be hard for the spring to reload the front of the bolt so it will kinda click into the ball again
Conqueror
12-04-2002, 08:56 PM
Yeah, that design is basically Boston Paintball's Reflex bolt, which IIRC was released in '98. There are a couple versions of it out now. Yours looks very good though.
CQ
toymyster
12-04-2002, 11:59 PM
Yes, your idea is solid, in fact, there is a bolt made like that already, the cocker anti-chop bolt!! I've seen it in action, it works rather well!!!
Automaggin2
12-06-2002, 10:41 PM
its already been done. theres one called a JAM Products bolt. Search on google for it.
flanders
12-07-2002, 03:30 AM
corect em if im wrong but if the bolt moves to absorb impact, the air hole would be in the worng position ie no air going through
Blazestorm
12-09-2002, 06:55 PM
basically... no air = no chopped ball... :p
:D~
Mossman
12-27-2002, 01:53 AM
Originally posted by flanders
corect em if im wrong but if the bolt moves to absorb impact, the air hole would be in the worng position ie no air going through
Ya, i think you'd need the back section to have some meat on it with a air passage milled into it. Then you have a set distance the bolt can spring back and still shoot like normal. At that distance you can mill a slot all the way forward on the bolt (Like a step), so once the seal is broken by the lower step the air moving through the back of the bolt is released.
Big problem #1....Where does the air go? Do you drill a hole and put o-rings on either side to seal it?
Big problem #2 is the design of the air passage in the back section. Theres probably a better place to put the air release stuff, but its 2am and im tired as hell :)
mykroft
12-27-2002, 02:20 PM
Elongated air passage.
And seal it at the back (Don't worry about the front).
Problem solved.
nak81783
01-02-2003, 10:21 PM
I would like to take back my previous statements. A buddy of mine made one that he designed, and to my surprise, it works very well. Check it out at www.banditbolts.com While you're there, you might want to check out his other bolts too. I've seen plenty of those in action as well, and they are just beautiful. They've put me out of plenty of games.
Nathan
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