Why does my LVL10 Emag not fire each day I gas it up ?

[CFD323]

I just installed my LVL10 in my Emag a couple days ago. I went with 1.0 carrier, 2 shims, and the medium spring. I fired about 500 balls through it and it worked great other than the velocity was all over the place. I think it might be a bad reg seat and the Diablo Blaze I'm using really sucks. It's dimpled and it's all different sizes. Anyways, I tried the squeegee test and the bolt stopped on it and vented correctly. I also tried my finger in the breech and it still worked like a charm. Yesterday I go to shoot it some more and when I gas it up it won't fire. I have to turn up the velocity to make it fire. After turning it up, it fired fine and worked fine. I shot about another 100 balls and then oiled it up and fired another 300 dry shots. Today I gas it up and it won't shoot again until I turn up the velocity again. My gun is shooting for the most part in the 285-300 range which is what it shot at yesterday and the day before. Why do I have to turn up my velocity everyday to make it fire ? And then why doesn't the velocity go up on the chrono too ? Also today my bolt actually stopped on a ball and wouldn't reset. I had to degass the gun and push the ball out with a pencil. I then regassed it up and the bolt recocked and it worked fine after that. Should I add another shim for that problem ? I never tried adding more shims since I just slapped 2 in on the initial installation and it worked fine at the time.
During the initial install, I tried to go bigger on the carrier and it leaked so I can't go any bigger than the 1.0 carrier. The longest spring wouldn't allow the gun to fire so I'm using the medium (cut) spring. Please give me some advice as to what I might "fix" to eliminate having to turn up the velocity each time I gas up the gun. It doesn't seem right to me. I've had no leaks since initial install so carrier and o-ring are still ok.

[xen_100]

well I was going to suggest using a larger carrier, but if the next one leaks, thats out. you cuold try a new carrier o-ring. if you get one that allows you to use a looser carrier, it may work better. most of the time when you get first shot stick like that, it is because of a carrier that is too tight, or not enough oil. I have heards many people using DOW33 grease on the bolt with great success too.

[vector9]

was there a temperature difference in the times you tried to fire? I constantly find my self re adjusting my LVL10 when its cold out or hot because for some reason when i set it up in warm weather and then i take it out and in the cold it leaks like crazy and wont shoot blah blah blah.

[rehme]

maybe the LX is to touchy and the paint is to incossitant and the LX wont push the ball

[TheTramp]

It sounds like an oil problem to me. I have a similar issue with my E-Mag. It needs LOTS of oil. When I first gas it up for the day I generally have to add a bunch of oil, fire it a couple of times in MANUAL (it still wont fire in e-mode until I do this) then flip back to E-mode for the rest of the day.

[crankydan]

Drop down to the small spring, this will fix most of youre problems. This really doesnt effect the pinch on the ball. It took my emag about 4000 shots to actually break in the oring. I to am using the 1.0 carrier, I also oil my bolt prior to use everytime. Try the small spring and see if that works for you.

[CFD323]

"was there a temperature difference in the times you tried to fire?"

No, the temp was the same. I'm shooting it indoors in my basement.



What does it matter if I oil my gun when I'm done playing with it or if I do it right before I play ? Is it that oil-sensitive that I need to oil right before I play ? My concern is that I play out in the middle of nowhere and the closest place to get my tank filled is like 25-30 minutes so if I oil my gun first, then dry fire a whole bunch, I've already lost about 100-200 shots and I haven't even started playing yet.

I tried the original stock Emag spring when I first put the LVL10 in. It fired fine and the velocity seemed pretty darn consistent. It basically stayed right in the 270's at the time. I didn't change the velocity at the time. Once I changed springs, the velocity went all over the place. I don't know if that's a spring thing or a poor paint to barrel match. Maybe I just got 30 or so paintballs that were similarly sized when I happened to be shooting the small spring. I guess I'll throw the small spring back in and try again. I just want the bolt to be very sensitive on the paint so I went with the middle spring.

[Sputnik]

Originally posted by CFD323
[BWhat does it matter if I oil my gun when I'm done playing with it or if I do it right before I play ? Is it that oil-sensitive that I need to oil right before I play ?[/B]

I'm in the middle of tuning my new LevelX install as well. When you guys say you went "heavy" on the oil or you oiled your bolt directly....can you be more specific?

I played this past Sunday for the first time with this bolt and it would work for 2 games....start leaking... stop leaking... start leaking...

Oil issue? I probably only have < 600 shots on it. I'm hoping this is normal.

[vector9]

if your using good old gold cup oil or something like that you should oil it right before you begin playing...... it tends to "Dry Up" after so many days and playing. Try using dow33 or something more on the grease side.

[CFD323]

Even with Gold Cup oil, after you oil it with a few drops, do you still dry fire a hundred shots or so to keep from gooping up your barrel with your oil ?

[TheTramp]

Originally posted by CFD323
Even with Gold Cup oil, after you oil it with a few drops, do you still dry fire a hundred shots or so to keep from gooping up your barrel with your oil ?

After a couple dozen shots most of the oil will have worked its way through. no need to fire a hundred.

[emsemt911]

I had the smae problem with a brand new E-Mag with Level 10, I am not even going to try to mess with it. It is being sent to AGD for repairs under the warrantee.

[BlackVCG]

Keep trying new o-ring/carrier combinations until you are able to find one that allows you to hold the bolt at the top of the PT and drop it so that the bolt comes all the way down and hits the bumper.

Before you assemble it, put the o-ring into the carrier and slide it onto the bolt stem to feel the amount of friction. Then assemble it and see how good of a fit it is with the bolt drop test. Then go from there. Each o-ring is slightly different so you gotta work with it until you find a combination that is just right.

Also, I would switch to the stock short spring and try that for awhile.