In this section I will cover every possible problem I can think of or that I have encountered. I will continue to add to it as I remember and/or come across new bugs.
If your marker has any type of problem with it, the first thing you should do is check that your battery is charged, tank is full, look over all the o'rings, make sure every o'ring and part is installed in the proper order, make sure everything is clean and oiled.
Since we're dealing with an electric marker that can shoot in mechanical mode, the first thing to do is check or make it work in mechanical mode to help isolate the problem down to the mechanical or electrical portions of the marker. If the marker works flawlessly in mechanical mode, then skip down to the Electrical aspects.
Mechanical Aspects
Major and Minor Air Leaks -
When determining how to stop a leak, you must first find out where it's coming from. This will help isolate what's wrong.
1. A leak out of the velocity adjuster hole -
There's a number of things that could do this. The most common is a bad reg piston or you are over pressurizing the reg so it relieves pressure to keep the valve from shooting hot(try turning down the velocity or making sure the air tank isn't pumping out an extremely high amount of pressure). Other possible problems are a bad reg piston o'ring(check it and grease it), or too low of a velocity setting(try turning up the velocity). You will also get a leak if you do not pressurize the valve fast enough or there isn't enough pressure to seal the valve itself.
2. A leak out of the side hole of the valve assembly(pictured below) -
This is a safety blow off feature made to keep the Retro quick recharge from becoming the supersonic ball slinger(no it wouldn't be that bad).(Replace your reg. valve pin)
3. A leak from the On/Off area -
First make sure everything's installed properly. Check that your on/off pin(.712") is not bent or broken. You may have to clean or replace the o'ring that's inside the on/off assembly, it unscrews into two pieces. If none of this helps, look to see that your trigger(2.125") rod and plunger(3.008") rod length are ok and that the trigger rod is pointing where it should be.
4. A leak from the front end of the valve or the bolt/breech area -
This could also be a number of things. Whether your running a level 7 or 10 set-up, I recommend checking those sections first.(also check the on/off pin(.712") If after you have checked those areas and know everything is installed properly, continue reading. A bad bolt spring(broken or not extending past the bolt, also remember cut side goes on bolt end), sear, trigger(2.125")/plunger(3.008") rod length can give you a massive leak down the front. There's also a two rare problems that can be wrong. If your running a level 10 set up, check your bolt bumper for wear, if the inner ring has begun to shred, pieces of it may be getting stuck in between the powertube and the bolt. The other problem may be a cracked powertube, if this is the case, you probably wont even be able to see the crack, but you will have to send the valve in to the factory to get it replaced(remember to call and get an RA number).
Marker Wont Cycle at All or Wont Cycle Reliably -
First things first, whether you are running a level 7 or 10 set-up, check those sections first. Next step is to make sure you have a full tank , your velocity is turned up enough, and the marker is oiled. If it seems you cant get your velocity high enough, your reg spring pack may be shot or binding(try turning it up all the way and then turning it back out). Make sure your rail bushing is installed. If the trigger rod is pressurizing, check the rod for the proper 1/16" gap behind the trigger when the trigger is forward(and/or check for proper trigger(2.125")/plunger(3.008") rod length). A simple mistake is a field strip screw that is too tight or too loose (especially if the valve is too reactive), just past hand tight is fine.
As far as the rest of the back side of the valve, your reg valve pin's spring pack may be shot, or there may be debris inside the valve. To cover the on/off area, check to see that your on/off pin is not bent or has any burrs. Make sure the quad o'ring is installed and ok. The inner assembly o'ring may have collected dirt, check it by unscrewing the the assembly apart. If you recently installed a new valve, on/off, or on/off pin, your pin may be too long or short(should be .712").
To check the front side of the valve, look for debris between the powertube and bolt. As far as the rest of the marker, if you have installed grips or replaced lost grip screws, check that the grip screws are not touching the trigger rod when it moves. Make sure the sear axle pin is not overly tightened. I've personally seen markers that are so dirty between parts that they are out of tolerance, another point is that if you just had any of your marker parts painted, powdercoated, or bead blasted, you now know that it could also effect tolerance(if possible, remove the paint/powdercoating in between the frame/rail and between the rail/body. Aside from all this, you might have a bent rail or body(all it takes is a few thousands), send it to me or the factory to figure out.
Marker Chops or Breaks Too Much Paint -
If you are running a level 10 set up, see that section first. Another important section to look at is Nubbins and Ball Detents. Besides that, there are few things that would make you frequently chop or break paint. Make sure your not short stroking(mechanical mode). If your not running a level 10 set-up, you might need a faster loader or to change the batteries out in your current loader. Finally, make sure your paint fits your barrel. If none of this does the job, you need to dish out a few more bucks on some quality paint, or try and buy fresher paint.
Marker is Erratic Over the Chronograph -
Good Normal readings are anywhere plus or minus 10fps over the chrono. If your getting a difference of over 100fps, check your detent(see Nubbins and Detents). If you think it might be the valve, first dry fire to make sure it's cycling properly. Check the valve for debris. Make sure it's oiled. If nothing helps replace your reg. seat. Something you have to realize when chorno'ing is that most velocity fluctuations are caused by a bad paint to barrel match or poor quality paint(expensive paint is expensive for a reason). When I personally use good fresh paint, I will get a +/-0 reading over the chronograph, as soon as I go cheap, I will see a difference of up to 15fps.
Electrical Aspects
If you have gotten the marker to work in mechanical mode and that has still not solved the markers problems, then read on.
1. Is the battery fully charged?
Get a volt meter, it should read 20-22volts. If it's not, make suer you charge it properly(see Charging the Battery). You may have to replace your battery or you may have a bad charger.
2. Does the board boot up?
Turn off, then on the marker. Make sure the firmware version lights up and that you can scroll through the menu. If it doesn't, your trigger may be over adjusted (see section adjusting the trigger). If your sure the trigger is adjusted properly, check that your board is getting power. Check the positive lead for the nylon bushings, make sure everything is tight and that the wires are not being pinched. Follow the lead to the board, make sure everything is connected properly and that all connections are plugged in properly. Check that the negative terminal is securely in the grip frame. The board may not be grounding, disconnect the battery, unscrew the PC board and make sure there is no anodizing in the threads to keep the screw from making a good contact. If there is, use a dental pick to scratch it off and then replace the PC board. If none of this works, you may have a bad or fried PC board. Look over the board to see if there is a spot that the magic smoke escaped from.
3. The board boots up, but the marker still doesn't fire.
If you have an Xmag, and your trying to dry fire, make sure your ace is off. Otherwise Listen for the solenoid when you pull the trigger. Make sure your not in trigger test mode and the solenoid is toggled on(provided your firmware has those features)(Holding menu button and pushing bottom button toggles solenoid). Make sure your trigger rod(2.125"), plunger rod(3.008") and on/off pin(.712") are proper length(You must also have the Quad o'ring installed in the on/off). The solenoid must have a little play, dont over tighten the mounting screw on the right side of the grip. If you have a multi meter, measure the solenoid for 2.6-2.8 ohms. If none of this does the job, you may have a bad solenoid or your plunger rod may be bent(it just takes a little bit), or your H.E.S. may need replacing(see adjusting the trigger).
Misc -
1. A stuck barrel (twist-lock) -
If it's usually hard to get out, try loosening the allen screw under the twist-lock assembly, that will put less tension on the locking pin. The locking pin may be bent(get a new one) or the barrel may have developed a burr that needs to be removed.
Twist-Lock Assembly
2. Removing the trigger from the frame -
If you would like to remove the trigger from the frame to replace it with another, you will need a drift pin. Hit the trigger pin from the right side of the frame. When reinstalling a trigger, hit the pin from the left side.
3. Safety gets stuck -
Some are pickier than others, you may especially run into problems if you own a pre 1000SN Emag. Things I do that work ok is to remove and burrs in the safety that may catch, and/or slightly clip the spring that pushes up on the ball.
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