Brining my old mag out of storage

Hey everyone,

So I’m coming back to paintball after a 14 yeah hiatus. I would like to eventually get my x valve mag back out there (but i bought a new marker just to not have to worry about the old markers performing day one).

My main question is if I should tear the whole valve down before I even attempt to air it up or should i just put a couple drops of oil in the ASA, gas it up, and see what happens? I believe i had put some oil through it right before I put it in storage but it also hasn’t had any pressure on it in 14 years. It was working fine before (other than chopping but I realized after the fact the pin was set too long and i would chuff it if I tried to get on it with the 800psi input…)

Secondly should I have any concerns about my SS braided air line? I know it’s SS and all but the actual core is still plastic, should I just get a new one to not worry about it or should it be fine (i am planning to get a UHP Ninja tank to get the ULT to RT so it will have to hold 1050-1100 psi).

Thanks

if it's been in a climate controlled environment, Oil it up , and try it out ,,, if it don't leak , Run it , if it does leak , rebuild it ,,, no worries on the SS hose

I wouldn't run 1100 psi input, especially with the ULT. If you insist on the Ninja SHP, use a rt on/off. But I would recommend a tank reg with 850 psi output. If you want to play with reactive trigger, try shorter on/off pins.

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Originally Posted by ffedmonson

I wouldn't run 1100 psi input, especially with the ULT. If you insist on the Ninja SHP, use a rt on/off. But I would recommend a tank reg with 850 psi output. If you want to play with reactive trigger, try shorter on/off pins.

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So it has been a a while and i am sure the best practices have changed but I always want to understand the logic behind it all.

When i was playing the standard practice (at least as i remember it) was to set the ULT up to be short and then up your input pressure. I never could get good reactivity out of either the ULT or RT on/offs with a standard HP output tank (i think it was 800-850 on the one i was using). I did start seeing as i have been getting back in that now people are saying to not up the pressure on the ULT kit but I am not totally understanding why?

For the shorter pins are those available for purchase or will I need to modify a stock pin (and if I need to modify is there a specific length range to stay in)?

My understanding is the pin for the ULT is too thin and not designed for super high pressure input. The standard rt on/off is better if you must use the SHP. The ULT, and all mags in general imo, run better with 850 psi input. Thus shorter on/off pins. Stock rt is .750. Anything shorter will give you better reactivity. Last I checked AGD has .745 pins, but you'll probably have better desired effect in the .740 range. You can probably find a pin that length from somebody like Tuna or maybe a few others here. It is also not difficult to trim one down yourself, if you are mechanically inclined and have the proper tools. No shorter than .735 should be necessary. I am speaking towards the rt on/off, which I recommend. I don't have any experience with the ULT though, but you would use shims in that setup, which has the same effect as shortening the pin. Shims are available through AGD.

Ok yeah I thought the shims are supposed to accomplish the same thing with the ULT.

From looking on AGD it seems like the pins are the same but I may be misunderstanding how they are selling them. I will need to pull the ULT and RT on/off I have and take a look to ale sure I am understanding what’s going on there. But yeah if I go with shaving pins I’ve worked enough metal and have some dial calipers laying around to check my work. I know my friend ram 1100psi into his ULT for years when we played. Of course that doesn’t mean it is “acceptable” based on the design specs but if I do it I don’t mind playing the “what can it do, not what was it designed to do” since it’s not my only marker.

After some googling I am seeing that Luke’s has turn key pneumag setups now which was always a dream (when I got out it was pretty much “here’s how you do it, find the parts and good luck”). That may be a more desirable end point honestly, especially since it seems that you can at least kind of get some RT if you tap the LPR up a bit… and now to set up another budget to implement one my wallet stops smoldering from buying essential all new gear (pretty much anything I had with elastic in it was trash and I just went with an AXE 2.0 to have something out of the gate that I shouldn’t have to worry about being down half the day from sitting 14 years haha).

To clarify: ULT and rt pins are different. ULT pins are thinner and more fragile. You want to use shims with these. Rt pins are the pins you would shave down.

Ok yeah I see that now that I am comparing them.

Now the shim amount shouldn’t change how far the sear pin sticks out to the trigger right? AGD had set it up for me but looking back I think it wasn’t gapped correctly as I remember that the pin and trigger should have about a credit card thickness of space when the trigger is full forward right?

That is correct, there should be a credit card thickness space between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger. You shouldn't need to adjust the trigger rod, or rather, I never have.

Yeah I am not sure why it was that way from the start. I did have an aftermarket trigger on it so maybe the tolerances were a bit off compared to stock triggers. The gun worked ok but if I would try to RT it I would chuff it and chop even though the LVL10 was set up correctly.