Making this pole to see how many people would be interested in a classic valve cap to eliminate their regulator.
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Making this pole to see how many people would be interested in a classic valve cap to eliminate their regulator.
Price is a factor
I agree price is a factor.
(Can't think of a funny pole joke)
If in the $20-30 range, yes.
Yes in the 20-30 price range
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xmagterror
Then at least one, possibly two for hoarding purposes.
WordQuote:
Originally Posted by Xmagterror
I want 1 (and 2 depending on final appearance). Looks like you have enough interest already. Hope for some more
Just a question....I am not trying to kill a project....Could they be made small enough to fit completely inside the front valve section? I was thinking that it could be built similar to a screw in reg with the oring going in first, etc?
this sounds interesting but im not sure I understand the concept.....as in you would replace the charger section of the valve with a cap?
So the you would have to control your velocity with a in line reg, Correct?
Yes. Takes the weight off of the back of the marker. Since most people use a foregrip anyways it puts the weight there. IMO makes it better balanced. I have a pump set up with one as well as a pneu setup.Quote:
Originally Posted by big poppa fluff
I saw the silver set up you have with the milled down rail...wow very nice! I think Im going to start gearing my project mag towards a capped valve and milled rail.Quote:
Originally Posted by OPBN
Know anyone who does annodizing for a reasonable price?
put me down for 1 bro!
Could it be made to still use the original side port instead of the typical end port? I don't wish to have anymore macro hanging out than I need.
Every one that I have still uses the valve side port...? Timmy J is the only one I have seen use a port on the back. Most people use that as a gauge port.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark Side
I was going for an airstar Nova appearance.
OK guys I'm in. I will have them done in about 3 weeks.
1st side of the prototype is done. Just need to turn the back side and tap for the burst disc. Thinking i might do a little ball end milling kinda like the front of a flatline 4500.
Has anyone found a good deal on 1.8K burst discs?
I think it would be cool looking like the field strip screw. Knarled and curved. Small as possible.
Are you going to leave the inside solid? Drill and tap the hole all the way through?
Deus hollowed his out, but think it would be better left solid. Just my 2 cents. I am in for 1 and maybe 2 pending final price and appearance.
Thanks for pulling through for us again XMT! Next, an aluminum classic valve body (precapped or not).
I'm more partial to smooth personally. Not sure if the hollowing out is necessary or not. Would think solid would allow for a thinner cap though.
I like smooth as well, but then you need to find a way to remove it without damage. I didn't care for the holes drilled in the side to stick something for leverage. Deus' were extremely light being hollowed out, but honestly it felt weak and cheap.
A thinner cap is my vote. Flush with the back is my ideal setup (Thats currently available)
I have one cap with the hole to use something, but I can just twist on it and it comes right off. The hole is actually unnecessary as long as there is enough meat to grab on and it not oily.Quote:
Originally Posted by TimmyJay
Since theres going to be a burst disk somewhere in there, is it still going to be possible to put a gauge coming straight off the back of the cap?
Depending on the size of the burst disc milling, my intent was to retap the hole larger and either plug it or put a gauge in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by koleah
So with the right regulator and a RT on/off installed, would a capped classic valve go reactive?
No. You are simply moving where the regulation takes place.Quote:
Originally Posted by peartree
Any capped valve, whether it be an RT type or Classic type, will act just like a standard Classic valve. If you cap an RT type valve, you will remove its reactivity capability.
-Nathan
What pressure does the inline reg need to output at for this setup to work well? Any possibility of having an SLP tank reg and eliminate double regulation altogether?
https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...25#post2829425Quote:
Originally Posted by pgop2.0
Post #20
You can use whatever regulation device you want as long as it's adjustable to control your velocity and high-flowing enough that it won't starve the marker.
-Nathan
Has anyone tried to force shoot down with high rate of fire with this setup? My only issue is a concern of velocity drop starving the valve. Since now we are dropping input pressure farther away from the dump chamber. May not happen till 12 or 15 bps. Idk. Just a curiosity of mine.
That post seems to discuss the needed input pressure to the AIR valve. I guess what I need to know is what pressure does the AIR valve regulate the input air down to?Quote:
Originally Posted by nak81783
The 350-375 psi for a Level 7 and 500-550 psi for a Level 10 are average chamber pressures required to reach typical field velocities. Athomas goes on to state what the inputs should be for each bolt system to maintain good flow. So your external reg needs to regulate to the numbers above depending on bolt system, and the pressure supplied to your external reg needs to be higher. The numbers athomas gave are based on the integral valve regulator, so the input to your choice of external reg may be different based on its flow rate.Quote:
Originally Posted by pgop2.0
Even with these seemingly high numbers, the ball only sees around 80psi, I believe, by the time all the firing sequence actions take place.
-Nathan
Thanks for clearing that up. That's actually quite surprising. My Nitro Duck X-Stream should work just fine then (in theory). It's flow rate is high enough to not starve any of my RT's and it is externally adjustable.Quote:
Originally Posted by nak81783
I'm going to air up my capped valve pump when I get home. I believe AThomas' numbers but swear mine is running closer to 600to the valve. I might be mistaken though. I do remember when I was running it on 12ies and had the valve devolumized that it was running even higher to get FPS in the correct range.
Timmy J was running his straight from an adjustable tank reg. As long as its adjustable enough and consistent enough an adjustable tank reg will work.
I aired up on my capped pump and am currently running about 540psi and a little hot. Shots are in the 285-294 range. On my way back out, so I can do some more checking later if needed. Level 7 bolt, freak bored barrel and I don't really underbore.
I came back to mention that I had forgotten the consistency portion. Some tank regs may not be. Thanks for filling in what I left out.Quote:
Originally Posted by OPBN
-Nathan