A long time Automag fan but played mostly pump. :)
I bought a real old field Automag and tried to reserect it a few years ago but to no avail.
What I recall is that it leaked air down the barrel.
With a limited budget I figure a old automag is far better than No Automag!
The questions are.
1) Why is air leaking down the barrel?
2) How do I fix it?
3) What to do next?
Thank you for any help you can provide!
If the leak stops when you pull the trigger and hold it in you just need to replace the power tube O ring. If the gun has set for years though. Spend 20 bux on a parts kit. Put the full set of O rings in it and the new bolt spring and she will probably fire as good as new.
Oh! And air is most likely leaking down the barrel because the oring in the power tube is wore out and letting air pass by. If your is from the 80s or early 90s it might do some good to get rid of the spring in the power tube as well and go to a spacer like on later models of automags.
Rebuild it with a fresh set of orings and go from there. You shouldn't have any other leaks and if you do, we can run you through them.
And make sure you buy an actual AGD kit. Not some piece-mail kit from an oring store.
Blackdeath & Ando,
Thank you for the very good advice! It comes most appreciated.
It will be at least a week or two before I get the parts in but I will follow up.
Regards
Erik
Follow up.
All the O-Rings are replaced and the spring.... But sadly it no longer shoots when I press the trigger and leaks air but slowly.
For many years I wanted a Automag, at least one running. I tried a few years ago but could not get it working then again more receintly but no then in the last few weeks but same results.
Automags have such an awsome reputation, they are classic but the one I have dose not have a real good reputation.
Sentimental but a little frusterated!
Where do I go from here???
Erik
Did you oil everything really well when you replaced all the orings? If not, do so.
Turn up the velocity. Try again. This might get it to shoot and seal the leak.
If it shoots, but still leaks do you have a small spring or a spacer within the powertube? If a spring, get a spacer kit, and follow the directions it comes with. You could also get a Level 10, but that would be 7-8 times the cost of a spacer kit, and would require some additional tuning.
My recommendation is to get the spacer kit to make sure the thing works. Check the B/S/T forum. You may find a kit cheap there. Later you could go Level 10 if you so desire.
-Nathan
Any chance you could post some pictures? Especially of the valve with the bolt off.
Nathan & Arstron.
Thank you for the reply. The air leak is less than it was on previous trys over the years.
Nathin, You asked if I oiled the o-rings and well No I did not but will next time I pull it apart in this week. Your rite I could turn up the velocity and may help as well. Spacer kit is new to me but I will look for 1 and see.
So my homework is to.....
1) Take apart and oil the o-rings.
2) Turn up the velocity
3) Post a picture of valve and bolt off.
Questions: 1)What gun oil is reccomended???
2)Just to be sure, is the velocity the hex nut on the back of the marker???
Please wait a few days for pics, Ect.
Thank you
Erik
I've been using Gold Cup oil forever.
Yes, velocity is adjusted (via pressure) with a hex key in the back of the valve.
Post when you can; I'll stay subscribed.
-Nathan
take a picture of your on/off valve as well while you're at it.
Arstron & Laku I will post pictures in the next day or two.
Both embarrassed and relieved. The power tube had no spacer nor o-ring, Just a spring 1 out of 3 ain't so good.
The on off valve is in good shape.
Your concerns and requests were well merited and thank you, Black Death, Arstron, Laku and Nak81.
I ordered a bunch of O-rings and one should fit the power tube and will check the B/S/T Fourm as Nak81 advised for the now known to be missing power tube.
I will keep posted about progress and ask what steps to next take if it works after the parts are installed.
Regards
Erik
the older style valves came with powertube springs instead of spacers. but it will still require that oring behind the spring.
did you order them from AGD or some other supplier? i ask because the AGD orings tend to last longer.
Erik,
I can't tell if we're on the same page or not. Uh, make it look like this:
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...plodedview.pdf
See the small brass cylinder to the left of the blue bumper? That's the piece that used to be a small spring on the original Automags, but I'm recommending you buy the kit of slightly varying length brass cylinders to properly tune your marker. Linked here:
http://www.tunamart.com/index.php?c=39&p=413
And yes, the oring between the blue bumper and the brass cylinder in the diagram definitely needs to be there.
-Nathan
Captian & nak81
So good to have new friends who know much about automags!
I am sure both your advice is going to work, I am going to bite the bullet and spring for the 5 Brass Cyinders. I will look for ones from AGD but fear they may sock me with shipping more than the o-ring cost.
nak81 Thank you for the awsome websites! never saw such an Automag diagram that well done.
Captain.. Your in South Carolina. Not too far.
Thank you!
Erik
Tunamart is awsome, easy to follow.
I will put together an order from them in a day or two.
New Question ???
In reading the diagram of an Automag listed below, It looks as though there are 2 orings just below the on/off pin housing.
The 1st is a smaller teflon o-ring while the second is a larger one that goes around it.
1) Is the larger one rubber?
2) I have seen where the larger one is not even shown in a video (Old viteo) Is the large one needed or otherwise?
Erik
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...plodedview.pdf
With few exceptions, all AGD orings are urethane 90 durometer cast (not millable gum). One exception is the Teflon on/off oring in Classic valves.
Some valves have a step in the on/off hole, so they only require one oring. I think that is only for old RT and E-Mag valves though, but it may be for some of the old Classic valves as well.
Regardless of valve type, if there is no step in the on/off hole, it needs the aforementioned urethane oring surrounding your Teflon oring.
-Nathan
Only the early retro/RT/emag valves had the stepped indentation in the on-off hole. All classic/AIR valves, newer retro valves, and all X-valves have the flat bottom on the on-off hole.Quote:
Originally Posted by nak81783
The larger urethane oring holds the smaller oring in place above the on-off top. In the classic valve the small oring is teflon so that it will work with CO2. In the retro valve it is urethane. In the emag it is a buna quad oring.
athomes & nak81
Thank you. It looks like mine takes 2!
I aired it up yesterday and nothing but big leak down the barrel after first air shot. I will keep trying to get Power tube spacers, Hopefully they will keep the o-ring in place. The two places I tried over tha last few days had problems with there web site... At least for there ordering.
Erik
Have you tried emailing Tunamart? That's usually the best way to contact him. tunaman5@verizon.net
Jersey, be sure and post the results of holding the trigger down. Everyone trying to help will get a lot of info from that test (knowing whether is stops leaking or not).Quote:
Originally Posted by blackdeath1k
It's best to work through these things yourself (with help), but if you are actually in new jersey, there are "resources" in that area.
Laku, Thank you for the reply and The Tunamart Email! I did email Tunamart after the orders did not go through, but am not sure if it was that email address. The one you gave me is the next I will try.
Spider-TW I have transplanted from North Jersey to in South Carolina. It would a privilage for me to keep you posted.
I ordered a power tube spacer ring and was advised that the spring in the power tube likely wore out some time ago.
Will update in time.
I feel you will have a functional Mag when your parts arrive. Good luck.
-Nathan
Thanks all,
Looks like 2 days till delivery. Where I ordered it the person was out of town.
Hope it works!
Spacer is in I will install it tonight & see what happens.
No leeks I hope!!!
The spacer is in.
Leeks alot.
Perhaps I should buy one off ebay or somthing.
It simply will not stop it's leeking!!!
Erik
What size spacer did you use? Depending on how much wear is on your sear, you may need to use one of the shorter spacers in the kit. Try the 0.215 or 0.220 spacers. They should be the ones that work.
Athomas,
I used the .220 I am going to check more diagrams to see if i did it rite.
Thank you!
Opps,
I may not have placed or checked fo a O ring between the spacer and the bottom of the power tube.
If there was none then it may be the fix.
Erik