Halo B V35 and single detent?

Anyone else here ever run into issues using a HaloB with a V35 chip on a single detent Mag? I have a HBV35 that I normally use with my dual detented Mags without issue. I get the ocassional dual feed, but usually only when RTing a lot. I did remember trying to use this some time back on one of my TL bodies and having some issues with double feeding, which seems to cause it to stop working and blink at me, etc. Last night I was trying to use it on a Pnuemag that I have with a single detent, and kept getting double feeds and the blinking lights on the Halo. When I switch to my nonV35 loader I didnt have the same issues. I tried using the detent with the thinner o-ring and screwing it in tighter, but it just doesn't seem to be able to keep it from happening. Anyone else ever notice this? I did turn the HBV35 down to the lowest feed setting, but still no dice. It locks up within a short time and breaks like crazy.

flashing red/green LED means batteries are low. change them and then try. you can also try to take some of the spring tension on the cone out, which would help with detent. also making sure that the detent is strong, would also help.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Nobody

flashing red/green LED means batteries are low. change them and then try. you can also try to take some of the spring tension on the cone out, which would help with detent. also making sure that the detent is strong, would also help.

---

Brand new batteries straight out of a freshly opened pack. Tried the twin 9v pack and the 6 AA pack, happens with both. You can hear it start up, it feeds the balls and then makes a noise like its trying to push the balls and can't. Sometimes it will stack up fine, but as soon as you shoot, it starts double feeding and then shuts down. Not a clue how to take tension out of the cone. It doesnt do this with my 2 detent makers. The single detent works fine with the non V35 halo. Only break I got with that one what when I short stroked it trying to walk the trigger too fast.

Swap cone springs between your two loaders. Repeat your tests on the problematic marker. See if problem follows cone spring. If so, that's the stiffer spring, which has enough to push past one detent but not two.

Might also want to try each loader (starting with the one pushing harder) on all your various detents one at a time to see if detents vary in strength, as Nobody suggested. i.e. Does it push past one or more individual detents and not the other(s)?

I guess you could also swap motors or boards, whichever is easier for you. You've got a little DOE on your hands!

Does the v35 give a bps for the different speed settings, or is it just a relative slow, medium, fast, etc.? I ask because the slowest setting on the v35 might be faster (i.e. push harder) than the single setting (or current setting, if adjustable) on the non-v35 hopper.



-Nathan

Oddly, I never sat and compared the two. One thing I am noticing is that on the V35, the cone does not spring back when you turn it counterclockwise, but does on the non-V35. Its like they are opposite. I wonder if I screwed up and put one back together wrong?

As for the speeds, I dont remember the exact numbers associated with the settings, but they are specific. I.E. one blink = 15bps, 2 blinks =20 bps etc.

Yeah. The hopper is assembled wrong. Without the spring tension, you're essentially direct driving the cone with the motor. Is this another case of reading directions while drinking? Get it assembled properly, and see if that resolves the issue.

Re-reading your post, did you mean clockwise (viewing through loading lid)?


-Nathan

I havent taken either apart in ages, so they would have been like this for a long time. With that said, the non V35 is the one that is like this and is the one without issues. I also did some further testing and if I stick a chapstick tube into the feedneck of the non-V35, the motor instantly shuts off. On the V35, it take a second or two. Could the eyes or whatever be bad?

The joy of having two, start swapping parts to find out.


-Nathan

Going to have to wait until Sunday. Supposed to play tomorrow and just going to take the one that works with the marker I want it to work with. So when the cone is installed correctly it is supposed to have some spring if you try to turn it clockwise?

http://www.mcarterbrown.com/manuals/...erb_manual.pdf

I know this manual isn't the exact same, but it shows how to properly install the cone.

The cone will spring CCW when turned CW ONLY if the the cone is installed properly AND the motor has not already completely wound the spring.


-Nathan

Can a cone/spring be put on a halo 2

Well apparently, I have multiple issues. Took the V35 apart and the eyes were pretty gouped up. Cleaned and retaped them and now seems to work like a champ. Thing is a PITA to put back together. Stone sober took me almost an hour. Yikes.

Yeah, I must have the other one assembled wrong. Might see how bored I get tonight after getting my gear ready.

Keep in mind, I think Halos were the first true forcefeed hopper with standard mounting. I believe warp feeds were the first true forcefeed. Anyway, Halos helped in terms of bps, but they did leave something to be desired in terms of disassembly. I hate cleaning them too. Maybe I should have put Halos in your post about not wanting to tech stuff. Regardless, they were a step in the right direction towards today's high end loaders.

I drool over the videos of some of the new high end hoppers due to both their bps and ease of disassembly. Now I just need my original Halo B or my Reloader B to crap out to justify buying a new loader. My existing ones keep up fine with the 12.5bps most of the fields I play at allow.

Syko89: I do not know. I've never used one or worked on one. Do you have one? What drive system do they come with, and why do you feel you need to change it? I'm asking because, even though I say I want a newer loader, I like the price tag of the Halo Too better, if one of my current loaders crapped out.


-Nathan

Halos are the first true force fed hopper. Man people thought they were a god send when they came out.

As for hard to put together. I can't speak for any halo other than a halo too. But them are easy to take apart and put together. Not like the new high dollar stuff. But easy enough.

Got the other non V35 taken apart and the spring tension set properly. Sound like a freaking tractor now. not sure what I have done wronge now, but I definitely don't remember it sounding like this.

Halos were the first force feed hopper, but the Warp was the first force feed device, right? The AGD museum dates the Warp as circa 2000. The first review on pbreview.com for the Halo B was October 2002 (not the best way to date something, I know), and I don't think the Halo A's were out very long at all before they upgraded to the Halo B (gear driven vs. belt driven, respectively, as I recall).

I'm not trying to argue. I just want to make sure I have my paintball history correct.

I had a replacement shell kit for my Halo B that separated top and bottom, instead of side to side. I can't remember the name. It made it easier to do a basic cleaning (some dirt or a broken ball in the main compartment). However, it a ball broke in the neck or a complete tear down was necessary, it was just as difficult. The plastic was inferior though, so that shell kit didn't last long. After that, I switched back to standard shells.

From pictures and the 1 page manual, the Halo Too looks like it comes apart the same as Halo B's (at least the shell). Looks like it just has updated electronics. I can't find a good diagram of the inner drive assembly, so I don't know what's different there.

I suppose "ease" is relative and subjective.


-Nathan

OPBN, so now the V35 is working properly? No longer pushing past the single detent?

Other than the noise, does the non-V35 work properly? I know my older Halo B is much louder than my Reloader B. However, keep in mind that, unless you run out of paint, the eyes will only allow the hopper to run in short bursts, so you won't get the loud continuous motor noise you are probably hearing now. Or, if you're shooting that fast that the motor does need to keep spinning, the motor noise will be unnoticeable compared to the marker.

...but I don't see why it would be louder than before unless something is binding. Or, maybe you unbound something, and the beast is running at higher rpm's now?


-Nathan

Yeah, not sure. Seems to be running ok I guess. I just don't remember it being this loud. Kind of sounds like something is hitting, but I took it step by step and once I put the large gear inside the housign together with the smaller one with the belt it starts "clacking". Maybe just never noticed it before? Who knows. Its' getting late, I need a beer and tired of the smell of paint and marker oil. Time for a shower and some zoning time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OPBN

I need a beer

---

Just starting? I'm a couple ahead of you then...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OPBN

tired of the smell of paint and marker oil.

---

I'm pretty sure that's blasphemy.

Alright, man. Have fun tomorrow. I'll give it some more thought overnight, and I'll tear into one of mine after tomorrow's games to see if anything else comes to mind.


-Nathan

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nak81783

Halos were the first force feed hopper, but the Warp was the first force feed device, right? The AGD museum dates the Warp as circa 2000. The first review on pbreview.com for the Halo B was October 2002 (not the best way to date something, I know), and I don't think the Halo A's were out very long at all before they upgraded to the Halo B (gear driven vs. belt driven, respectively, as I recall).

I'm not trying to argue. I just want to make sure I have my paintball history correct.

I had a replacement shell kit for my Halo B that separated top and bottom, instead of side to side. I can't remember the name. It made it easier to do a basic cleaning (some dirt or a broken ball in the main compartment). However, it a ball broke in the neck or a complete tear down was necessary, it was just as difficult. The plastic was inferior though, so that shell kit didn't last long. After that, I switched back to standard shells.

From pictures and the 1 page manual, the Halo Too looks like it comes apart the same as Halo B's (at least the shell). Looks like it just has updated electronics. I can't find a good diagram of the inner drive assembly, so I don't know what's different there.

I suppose "ease" is relative and subjective.


-Nathan

---

Yes. The warp feed was out before the first halo. I've never actually seen one of them in person. And 01 or 02 was the first halo that popped up at my field. Been to long to remember if it was 01 winter. Or 02 spring/summer.

Think it took me 10 minutes start to Finnish to pull the halo too apart at work. Add the rip drive. And reassemble. Only part that annoyed me was getting the belt to stay in place. Wasn't that bad though. Then again. I make a living with maintenance. So a hopper should not be that bad.

As for the OP. Yah. If it sounds like a tractor something is up. They have never been known to be quiet. But shouldn't be that loud.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nak81783

Just starting? I'm a couple ahead of you then...



I'm pretty sure that's blasphemy.

Alright, man. Have fun tomorrow. I'll give it some more thought overnight, and I'll tear into one of mine after tomorrow's games to see if anything else comes to mind.


-Nathan

---

I try not to drink the night before playing. Unfortunately, I need it tonight to shut the engine from turning.

Out of curiosity, where do you play? I see Dewitt is north of Lansing, you ever hit up Hell Survivors? Since my wingman is down for the season, looking to branch out if you're ever interesting in meeting up.

I'll PM you tomorrow evening. I'll answer your questions, and we can start trying to set something up.

That's code for, "Ive gotta check the calendar with wifey first."


-Nathan

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by nak81783

I'll PM you tomorrow evening. I'll answer your questions, and we can start trying to set something up.

That's code for, "Ive gotta check the calendar with wifey first."


-Nathan

---

It's cool nothing serious, just looking for playing options.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by OPBN

It's cool nothing serious, just looking for playing options.

---

Hell's Survivors is pretty cool. You should check out their Monster Game coming up the last weekend in July. Pre- registration ends July 1st!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by steve_81

Hell's Survivors is pretty cool. You should check out their Monster Game coming up the last weekend in July. Pre- registration ends July 1st!

---

Been a few times actually. I'll have to check the calendar.

Tore into both my hoppers tonight. These are long shots, but it's all I can come up with for the "clacking" you describe.

1. Double check assembly. Make sure everything is seated properly.

2. Inspect the bearings. Make sure none are rusted or have flat spots.

3. The center cone screw needs to be snug. Otherwise, the drive tab could slip under the cone tab and could make that sound. This would probably mess up the spring back we've discussed earlier.

4. Make sure none of the gear teeth are missing or chewed up.

Like I said, my Halo is noticeably louder than my Reloader B, but I wouldn't say it sounds like a tractor.


-Nathan