Is it normal to go through lvl 10 bumpers so quick?

I literally installed one a week and a half ago, and after 2 days of play its starting to get ripped.. and its an odd rip too. The lvl 10 bumper is a washer shaped piece of rubbery material. And the rip is actually a fraction of a mm inside the inner diameter, if you get what I mean. What could cause this? Is this normal?

I oil the hell out of my X valve so unless tossing oil in the ASA and a little bit of oil on the powertube for the lvl 10 bolt is not the correct places to oil this thing, I dont know whats wrong.

Any help is appreciated.

what color is the bumper?

Yes, they're prone to getting chewed up pretty fast.

Options have been discussed...

https://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=212060

Hey iv got a tac one and in 8 cases of paint, my bumper is shot to *POOF* still works though . i just ordered 8 of them for the future with an xvalve repairkit wich comes with 2 more, now i dont have to worry :p

Now I thought the x-valve repair kit came with 2... it actually only comes with 1.

:(


can I use a lvl 7 on an x-valve?

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Originally Posted by mostpeople

Now I thought the x-valve repair kit came with 2... it actually only comes with 1.

:(


can I use a lvl 7 on an x-valve?

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What's the difference between the blue classic bumpers and the x/rt-valve bumpers? They have different properties, but are the same material. Are they different thickness, or do they have a different "impact absorption" property?


Yes, you can use a L7 on an X-Valve, you will lose the "anti-chop" feature. I believe you might need to change the powertube spacer to go with the Level 7 bolt and the level 7 powertube tip as well.

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Originally Posted by JRingold

What's the difference between the blue classic bumpers and the x/rt-valve bumpers? They have different properties, but are the same material. Are they different thickness, or do they have a different "impact absorption" property?


Yes, you can use a L7 on an X-Valve, you will lose the "anti-chop" feature. I believe you might need to change the powertube spacer to go with the Level 7 bolt and the level 7 powertube tip as well.

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I meant a lvl 7 bumper only - the blue one..

there is no WAY im giving up my lvl 10 bolt though haha

different impact absorbtion,
the blue bumper is less soft than the clear one of the LX. Return force of LX needs the softer bumper

I lied you can use the blue one w/ LX

If I understand correctly, the bumper is just there to make sure there is no stress on the bolt after the spring returns it correct?

Therefore, if it is harder material it will either work, or damage a lvl 10 bolt while it wouldnt damage a lvl 7.

So the question remains, does a lvl 7 bumper work on a lvl 10 bolt? If so - why did AGD bother with a lvl 10 bumper?

I've found that fastening the bumpers to the back of the valve with a two part epoxy makes them last much longer. I used to use superglue, but someone told me or posted that superglue will eat the bumper.

I theorize that the bumper may be pulled off the back of the valve a little and then slammed back when shooting, thus fastening it to the back of the valve reduces some stress on the inner diameter. I could be way off, but it definitely works.

It's not really a Level 10 bumper, but really an RT/ReTro/X-Valve bumper. The real reason is the increased rate of fire that these valves bring. The assumption is that you'll be putting a lot more rounds through your gun than with the old bumper, and you'll need a better bumper to absorb the impact. The other purpose is the X-Valve is made of softer metal, and needs a bit better cushion. The logic behind the different bumper is honestly a bit fuzzy. So the short answer is, yes: you can use a blue bumper on a modern valve, indefinitely. But you should probably get the proper bumper when you get around to it.

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Originally Posted by Dewok82

I've found that fastening the bumpers to the back of the valve with a two part epoxy makes them last much longer. I used to use superglue, but someone told me or posted that superglue will eat the bumper.

I theorize that the bumper may be pulled off the back of the valve a little and then slammed back when shooting, thus fastening it to the back of the valve reduces some stress on the inner diameter. I could be way off, but it definitely works.

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Fastening the bumper does work.

You are only partially correct in your theory. The shape of the back of the level 10 bolts, which are a bit different than the level 7 bolts, are the biggest reason the bumpers shred. The bumper material pushes outward when the bolt hits it. The inner diameter of the bumper is held in place by the inside edge of the bolt. If you have a look at the powertube of the valve, you will see a small groove at the base of the powertube. When the bolt is back, and the bumper is compressed, some of the bumper fills this void. The bumper is literally torn as it is pulled outward while the inner material is held in the void at the base of the powertube. By gluing the bumper to the valve, you are reducing the stretching and movement of the bumper and prolonging its life.