Ule body size question????

so I am sure most have seen on here in one for or another the shortest rails, lightest rails, after market bodies styles, rails and frames trying to make the automag lighter. Even of course the valve cap.

but I have not seen shorter or smaller size ULE body. I am not talking about taking a little lip of the front of the AGD ULE bodies, I mean a whole new shorter in over all length body. so can this be done, can a body be made shorter, maybe setting the barrels thread closer to the valve making the front of the body shorter. or maybe doing a body and barrel that would have a shorter thread pattern, making it the whole thing shorter.

kind of mid or half blocking a cocker but doing it to the mag from the front end.

It can be shortened up to where the threads start.

Beyond that you need to start messing with power tube and bolt. Or desing a whole new breach system.

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Originally Posted by C_losjoker

so can this be done...

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if it could've been done, it would've been done. one thing that might be doable is cutting holes or slots in the ule body to remove material. like a skeleton body...you would see the valve and stuff underneath. the thing is, that's a lot of work to remove a few grams of material. really, the ule body is pretty damn light-weight at 91 grams. you would be better off getting a lighter weight barrel, tank or loader. at least then you would notice the difference.

Shaving the body down to the threads doesn't change the overall length of the marker since the barrel still sticks out the same distance.

the issues here is the distance from the back of the powertube to the breech. That is the distance that the current bolt design must cycle. so your option to shorten the overall marker is to mill out the cocker threading and take it back to twistlock barrels so that the breech is not added space. In my estimation, that would take 2" off the front of the marker (vs cocker barrel of same length) and you could cut your rail down behind the foregrip mount. If you still wanted a foregrip at that point, you could do it Phantom-style with a back-bottle ASA bolted to the front of the trigger guard.

you can still do a valve cap and cut the rail at the rear to match. beyond these two, you would actually need to shorten the bolt itself and move the valve forward in the body accordingly. There is close to .5" at the face of the bolt that is not used for anything except strengthening the design so it doesn't break in two. If you don't mind taking that chance, I say go for it. Let's see your true "micro-mag". By my estimate, with a valve cap, you're taking close to 4" off with these suggestions.