Level 10 bolt stick?

I have a broken in (6k plus rounds) level 10 in an automag classic. It is using the largest carrier that does not leak and the longest spring.. I'm using the RT bumper. I also have a hyperframe. When I really get on the trigger and get the rof up I get "bolt stick". The bolt does not reset in the oring; it's protruding into the breech about 1/4 of the way and leaks like crazy. I turn off the air, it resets and I can turn the air back on and everything is fine, until I get the rof up again. I did notice that the RT bumper is a little thicker than the classic bumper. Any ideas?

BTW, I'm running a 9.6 volt battery pack for the hyperframe instead of a standard 9 volt battery.

have you looked at the condition of the bumper? As I often say, once that inner ring starts going, it's trash cause bits of the bumper will get caught up between the bolt and powertube.

What type of tank and what's your input? how many shims?

had the same problem.. level 10 with a hyperframe.
fix? longer on/off pin.

worked for me..

also make sure you have the most shims w/o leaking.. i ended up with like 4.

out!

Thanks guys.
1. It is a brand new bumper, but I'll double check it's condition.
2. I'm using a 3k flatline, "input" pressure of between 600-700 (I'll check and let you know).
3. I have one shim, two leak.
4. I am also using the longer on/off pin from Centerflag.

Any other ideas before I check on exact info?

Thanks again.

does the problem occur with the cut spring? Is the cut spring not soft enough for ya?

what are you chrono'd at?

Most mags like above 700... i run mine around 850

it's a classic valve, not a RT valve though. 850 is fine but isnt needed.

well... the on/off is letting air into the dump chamber before the bolt is sealing it off.. this is why i think your on/off pin is still too short.
either that or a damaged oring in the on/off assembly, or any bent/damaged part in the on/off area.
is the bolt sticking after bouncing off a pinched ball, or is it on its way back from firing a ball?

try taking the hyperframe off, re-insert the back valve screw to hold the valve, and try firing it by just pushing on the sear by hand. try different things, like emulating a pinched ball, holding the sear back, etc..
thus is how i diagnosed mine.

let us know..

out!

Okay, I checked and my input is at 600. The bumper still looks new. It's chronoing at around 285. I tried switching to the middle spring. Still did it. It was not reseting from pinching, just firing.

The pin is the longest one from Centerflag. The sear is fully catching. I checked with the saftey out and grip panels off. I tried pushing on the sear to see if I could move it "forward" after I aired it up. Doesn't move.

I'll play around with it more when I have a change. BTW, I believe it only does it when firing paint, NOT dry firing.

Any other ideas?

Thanks

see if your bolt fits in your barrel... lol... If it's smaller then .687 bore the lvl x bolt wont go into it... I had to ditch the boombstick cuz it was too small.. now i have a freak.

Thanks, but the bolt fits in the barrel (it's a stock emag barrel, .695 I believe). Anyone else?

I was having that same issue before, I placed my other ReTro valve w/ lx in it and it worked fine. I replaced the old one's spacer with a larger one. Also the oring might have swelled in the carrier....Just a thought, I hear orings can swell from oil.
-Doron

Quote:

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Originally posted by hostage
Also the oring might have swelled in the carrier....Just a thought, I hear orings can swell from oil.

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Thanks. I'll try "retuning" the carrier. I do use a lot of oil...

Thanks again. :D

Update: I was able to go up from a 1.5 carrier to a 2.0. The 2.0 leaked when I tried it back when I first installed the level 10 bolt. I think the orings must seal better once they are broken in.

When I can get more air (I only have enough to check for leaks) and paint I will see if this fixed the problem.