Smooth trigger persnikityness

I've been making a trigger for my pneumag. The first few prototypes were just card stock, but the aluminum prototype ticked me off a bit. The tapped hole for the end of travel set screw bothers me. The top screw is fine, my finger is never there, but I think I'd like the face of the trigger smooth

Sure it's a little thing, but I'm making this thing, I may as well get it how I want it.

Has anyone looked into other ideas for limit adjustment?

My first inclination is to drill a short blind bore and lightly press in a 1/8 or 1/16" nylon rod and carefully sand it down to length

I'd have to drill it out if I wanted to change it.

I could maybe do a shallow blind hole and bottom tap with 6-32 or 4-40, the thread in a threaded nylon rod, but that's pretty fussy.

Anyone tried things like this?Attachment 89374

Picture of the (hopefully) final version

What frame are you using? Could drill and tap the hole in the frame behind the trigger.

I don't know but I think you need to sell me your prototype since you'll never get it right. I'm just a caring kinda guy that way.
Now back to the real world... either you can tap the frame or you'll have to find the best results you can live with on the trigger. Could be you tap the back of the trigger and keep shortening a grub screw till you get the right travel. I'll tell you though I've found with Comp. pistols that a small amount of over travel is necessary. You think you just want enough movement to fire but it don't work that way. even as much as a 1/16 over-travel will really work well. It kinda has to do with feeling the bolt and sear re- connect. Anyway have fun with it and I'll expect my trigger to arrive by next Tues.

It's an airwalk.

I had a horrible time getting the trigger rod bore in there without touching the guard, but on that note, yes, I still have the tool I made to do it, and I could get a drill in there

Not sure about a tap, probably not so much

Can you take a pic of the tool you used?

I can when I get home. Prepare to be underwhelmed, I just butchered a counterbore tool.

Attachment 89375

The bottom widget was cut from one like the top two counterbore tools

The position of the bit Is adjustable, but you have to put in the cut down bit, drill for a while, then when using the standard bit, it has to be adjusted in place, which is more than a little annoying

Ultimately the right angle driver wasn't rigid enough and wandered all over, so I had to do most of the drilling by hand

Attachment 89376

Obviously lots of work to do, particularly considering the body I want may never exist, we'll see