Automag blending paint bad

Hey guys im having a little trouble with my mag i have a rgular mag with a cocker threaded body and clamping feedneck i beleive it to be a lvl 7 bolt? Everytime i shoot its a blender. Imwas using fresh gi 3 star paint and it became were balls werent even comng out anymore bust being destroyed in the breech...i was however running a pink gi cancer tank which is set for low pressure.. It sounds great while being dry fired but once it sees paint its a mess.. Anyone have any idea what i could be missingor doing wrong? Thanx for the help. Keith

Automags need 850psi output. An LP reg'd tank will not work.

the MINIMUM input pressure should be above 800. 850 is decent. 950 is pretty golden.

you have a ule body and alot of the time with the ule body people screw in the detent too far and that has a chance of damage paint or the bolt, giving "stuff" sharp edges. if said damage occurs enough then the lip between feed neck and barrel will become a guillotine.

get a hopper that will force feed paint into you mag faster then a russian nanny.

get lvl 10 or an xvalve and tune it.

dont short stroke the trigger

dont shoot a cocker, your mag will never work for you again.




honestly, probably the pressure, but check the above.

Now that i think back i put a 68/45 pe tank on it and git same results blender:(

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Originally Posted by BTAutoMag

the MINIMUM input pressure should be above 800. 850 is decent. 950 is pretty golden.

you have a ule body and alot of the time with the ule body people screw in the detent too far and that has a chance of damage paint or the bolt, giving "stuff" sharp edges. if said damage occurs enough then the lip between feed neck and barrel will become a guillotine.

get a hopper that will force feed paint into you mag faster then a russian nanny.

get lvl 10 or an xvalve and tune it.

dont




honestly, probably the pressure, but check the above.

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Lol i hate cockers ;) were would i look for these sharp edges you speak of? And i use a revy on my mag should i go faster?
dont short stroke the trigger

Take your valve out and inspect the bolt. Look down the breach to check if the detent is too far in. Run your fingers around in the breach to find any edges.

Use whatever hopper your feel comfortable with. I use a shake and bake with my classic. Lvl 10 is a must

What is the size of the paint? What is the size of your barrel? Quite often balls that are a tiny bit tight in a barrel can bust in the breach as the bolt attempts to push them in. This is especially noticeable if the balls have weak seams.

Maybe a loose detent as well. It always aggravates me when I get rollouts when using a plain gravity loader. If the paint rolls forward to be caught late by the detent, it leaves the next ball halfway in the breech. Then there's double feeds.

I've gotten to where I don't like gravity feed on direct vert bodies (mags or other). With just one or two balls in the stack, the ratio of shake-to-bake gets way too high. Luke's verts have an extra ball or so that really seems to help.

Pic of the bolt? Early gen level 7 bolts were what gave mags the "autoblender" rep. Later versions fixed it.

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Originally Posted by Jaccen

Pic of the bolt? Early gen level 7 bolts were what gave mags the "autoblender" rep. Later versions fixed it.

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Not really. The early generation of bolts worked quite well. The later generations tried to get rid of the foamy to reduce the problem of users losing them, but the bolts really didn't perform any better, except maybe the jump from the short nose bolt to the longnose bolt to prevent rollback, but that only applies to the foamyless bolts. The autoblender came from people shooting using loaders that could not hold the balls securely in the breach. If you tipped the gun sideways or were running or bobbling the gun while shooting or just outshot the hopper, then you chopped because the forward force of the bolt was greater than what the ball shell could withstand when the ball was only partially in the barrel breach.

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Originally Posted by athomas

Not really. The early generation of bolts worked quite well. The later generations tried to get rid of the foamy to reduce the problem of users losing them, but the bolts really didn't perform any better, except maybe the jump from the short nose bolt to the longnose bolt to prevent rollback, but that only applies to the foamyless bolts. The autoblender came from people shooting using loaders that could not hold the balls securely in the breach. If you tipped the gun sideways or were running or bobbling the gun while shooting or just outshot the hopper, then you chopped because the forward force of the bolt was greater than what the ball shell could withstand when the ball was only partially in the barrel breach.

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A lot of "blender" came from the bad power feed plugs as well.

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Originally Posted by Spider-TW

A lot of "blender" came from the bad power feed plugs as well.

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Yes, that too.

Basically, anything that could allow the ball to not be securely held in the breach could cause a chop with any level 7 bolt due to the force at which it gets pushed forward.