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Hey guys - grew up shooting mags, been away from playing for 10 years or so and am looking to put together a mag for rec ball.
Thinking about starting with an RT ULE and changing the body & rail. Looking for opinions on whether an E-Mag would be a better rec ball gun due to all the electro's out there / possible issues with RT'ing trigger. Any advice is welcome. Thanks
Most fields start giving really funny looks when you shoot a gun that can rt. A ULT will solve this. And its a really light trigger pull.
I was worried about this but it sounded like as long as you are under the bps cap then it's all good. I'll have to look into this some more with local S Florida fields.Quote:
Originally Posted by BTAutoMag
I too prefer the ULT over the RT. The RT is fun to mess with, but it's rough on the spring and bolt. The ULT shoots plenty fast for me. Also I would recommend going to the dealer section of the forum and getting a RPG trigger with the trigger stops. My trigger is less than an 1/8 of an inch.
Thanks for the feedback. Are you limiting your pressure so low that you don't get any RT at all? Seems like the ULT with an RT valve will still give ya a tiny bit of rt even with proper shim setup. I haven't shot a ULT so I'm not sure if I'd like it or not. Have you had much trouble with using RT in local rec play?Quote:
Originally Posted by kfletch
No I haven't had to limit my pressure, I'm still running my 1200 psi SHP valve in my tank and it works great. No I've never had a problem playing with my RT at fields. As for the RT effect in a ULT the only way I know to achieve this is by adding a lot of shims to the ULT, which in essence turns it I to a RT on/off. Other than that no you don't get the RT effect from a ULT. But the trigger pull is much lighter and with the trigger stops you can walk it much easier.
Thanks for the info man. I'll take a look at Rogue's trigger setups.
I run my ULT'd X valve with an SHP reg and still get plenty of RT. It's all in how you set it up. By the same token I have never been able to truly walk a ULT'd valve, even with trigger stops.
As for fields not allowing RT, I have really never had an issue at any field I've played at. It would make sense to check your local fields though just to make sure.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMVVCJzYWoQ
not my video, currently working, but it's possible if the "force" is strong in you :rofl: How do you have your ULT setup OP? Shaved pin or shims?
Didnt say it couldnt be done, just doesnt seem to be able to be done by ME. Stock ULT pin, 3 shims and trigger stops.Quote:
Originally Posted by kfletch
Ok, big step for me, I learned how to upload videos. Watch out world!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLR6p...ature=youtu.be
Look, those fingers are flying so fast you can't seem them move!!!
Any opinions in the RT mech vs doing electro EMag? I'm leaning towards strictly mech setup so I don't have the added weight and electronics but curious to hear some opinions on whether an electro emag may be better for playing with the next couple of years.
So far no where I've played cares if it has rt effect as long as it is not electro. But if you start mowing down opponent's with rt I'm sure they will care.
As far as electro.... no thanks. I've played with a mech rt since 97. Same gun actually. So far I've never felt out gunned. And no I don't use a SHP reg. I'm running 850-900 input with a flatline. The difference in bps is minimal compared to the wasted paint cost. And I'm primarily playing against geos and egos. So not bottom end electros. I like the no batteries setups.
I'll probably get some rotten tomatoes thrown at me, but honestly if you are going electro I would look into an Axe or simliar. Don't get me wrong, E-mags and X-Mags are awesomesauce, I own two, but there are better choices IMO if you are going electro. A couple of reasons. 1. They are expensive for what you get. A cheap beat up E-Mag is going to run $4-500. It will most likely have old software, no eyes and who knows how the electronics have been taken care of. Which leads to reason 2. Replacement boards are discontinued. Yes, someone is working on one, but so far zero have been delivered. So if your board goes, you have a $4-500 paperweight, that you can run on mech. 3. I know its an old argument, but they are heavy compared to todays modern electros. 4. Typically they are inefficient. Start laying on the trigger and watch your tank drain within seconds. However, there is the cool factor which can possibly outweigh all the previous points.Quote:
Originally Posted by havinnoj
Personally, I run mostly mech for the few times I played last year and find myself playing pump more and more so perhaps my veiwpoint is skewed a bit these days. And for rec play, what do you really need? Most days I go out for rec play there are still a lot of renters mixed in with guys self equipped, so it's not like you're going to walk out totally outgunned. Hell a couple of weeks ago I watched a dude running a Phantom (I think) in a speedball game and he was the last guy standing in a game where everyone else was shooting electro.
Of course if you really have your mind set on an electro Mag, try finding a Hyperframe, E90 or VER frame. Just as much Electro with lots less weight, but good luck finding one.
Wow same setup but minus the RT effect. Just goes to show you not all valves function the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by OPBN
No flaming here. If I was gonna go electro I'd prob get a mini or an axe. From what I've seen of both they are nice guns and can be had cheap
You guys have made me feel better about running a mech and specifically with an RT setup and/or ULT. Now.. time to build!
I'll 2nd the MINI. I loaned my friend who had never played with an electro my mini. set at 10 bps and set up mostly semi, Nate was asked often what team he played for.With sane programing and a sence of fair play a mini will get you through a rec game with no one bi...ing. Play to the level of your opponents and there will be no questions. I have my original RT Classic(cheater Mag) and have never had the need to fear a field chrono check because I didn't feel the need to win at all cost. I love this game and don't feel bad when a noob takes me out.In fact I get off hearing them brag to their buddies about how they got me.It's all fun!!!
Runamok hit the nail on the head. Play in line of how the rest of the guys at the field are playing and no one will ever complain how your gun is set up. I've always said just because my gun can do 20+ bps. That doesn't mean I want to waste that much paint.
If building one I will say. Go x valve and ule parts. I LOVE my classic rt. But it weighs in 10lb even full of paint with a halo too and a 68 4500 flatline tank. I've never complained about the weight. But for scenario play. With 1000 rounds on me. 2 Lt water bladder. The gun. And a few rags. After 2 days my legs are sore. Since I won't carry less paint than I have air. And I've got to have water. A lighter gun is my only angle for lighter gear. Probably start building a featherlight Ygrip RT this winter for scenario duty..... and the wife.
OPBN - Nicely put in post #13.
My go to marker is still my mech Mag. I recently bought my X-Mag just to have the "flagship" marker of my favorite company, not because I felt outgunned. I purchased my E2 way back when strictly because I couldn't get the hang of a mech Cocker trigger (short stroked like crazy), not because I felt outgunned. Man, I love those external pneumatics cycling. Anyway, both those markers have the triggers set as stiff and long as possible to mimic my mech Mag as much as possible. The settings are at 12bps due to the local field rules. Doesn't matter. I can't walk a trigger to save my life, so I'm probably only pulling 7-9 bps with my middle finger.
A mech mag is plenty in my opinion.
-Nathan