My quad oring went in my emag on off and i noticed there is another white oring in there.
From what i read having 2 i should be OK to go ahead and replace my on off with a ult on off? Would love a lighter pull
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My quad oring went in my emag on off and i noticed there is another white oring in there.
From what i read having 2 i should be OK to go ahead and replace my on off with a ult on off? Would love a lighter pull
I didn't have another quad ring so i put in a similar size ring from an xvalve kit and the on off sticks partially now and causes a chuff if i attempt to rt.. I'm at a loss new to mags
You can use the regular on-off top oring instead of the quad oring to get you by in a pinch. The original emags used them. The quad oring will offer a smoother activation requiring less pull force as the pin enters the oring which is important for an emag. If you are going to use the emag valve in a mechanical marker, then it isn't so much of an issue.
If the oring is sticking, then you probably don't have the correct one.
Yes, if your valve uses two orings above the on-off top, then a ULT will fit in your valve.
But just to be clear, if you are using this E-Mag valve in an E-Mag, don't put a ULT in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas
AThomas what would be causing the on off to stick and vent air a bit,it seems to be the only o ring that fits? Could i text you a video of it?
What do you mean by venting air? Is it venting out the front? If that is the case, then you are getting bolt stick and your level 10 needs to be tuned.Quote:
Originally Posted by justin82
Here is a copy of my level 10 tuning guide for reference:
When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.
For carrier sizing:
Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.
Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.
For spring adjustment:
You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definately clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.
I dont think the bolt is sticking,the bolt stays back and the on off sticks half in and vents air,the gun didnt come with any carriers so im talking to tunaman now about getting some and springs.
So with it having the 2 orings ( one white one and the quad) id be good to get the ult then?
Thanks for the help!even the trigger sticking a bit i still had a blast playing with it today.
Got the "is that an ion??" A few times lol
Theoretically, but not recommended for use in emag.Quote:
Originally Posted by justin82
Its just the valve,its a mech
Ah, well in that case yeah. ULT will work.Quote:
Originally Posted by justin82
Found a little soft red oring and removed the 1 shim i had in the lv 10 and all seems well now!
My carrier appears to be a perfect fit according to your instructions, not too tight or loose
Well i spoke too soon,its better but sticking a bit, seemed to work fine with the quad ring so likely the culprit... now the bolt is sticking a bit
I suspect you have the correct oring installed in the on-off. I doubt it is the on-off that is sticking. If it is venting air, then the bolt has to be slightly forward. This is usually indicative of bolt stick.Quote:
Originally Posted by justin82
You need to get a set of carriers so that you can properly tune your level 10 bolt. I suspect that the next larger carrier size will probably work for you.
Looser is better than tighter on the level 10 oring, I've found. Generally, you can almost get away with a slip-fit of most orings in paintball because the pressure will deform orings to seal up. So whenever I tune my Level 10s, I use the loosest carrier that still seals with no leaking down the barrel. If/when a tiny leak ever start to form, I just take that same broken-in oring out and install it into the next smaller carrier and it's good to go for a long time.
But that's just me and a bit more tedious.
Think il get the 1 size up carrier as thomas recomends then go from there,get the one i have measured up tonight and while at it replace all the rings in the valve.
Some are looking pretty brown
Is the ult that much better than the emag on off?its def not electro light but i dont find it that bad.. is it night and day difference trigger pull?
Much lighter, but I short stroke them like crazy. I tried a ULT twice. Each time I went back to the RT on/off.
I suppose it is nice to have the trigger snap back with the rt eh,especially in the heat of battle
Yes, and since they're typically not walkable (not that I can walk a trigger very well anyway), I don't find them any faster than the RT. Don't get me wrong, they're a great product. For me, I think it's the switching back and forth from electros to mech markers that prevents me from developing proper trigger discipline to take advantage of it.
Ive decided to stick with the stock on/off,figure il keep it simple..
Il update the post when my parts get here,hoping the carrier and quad ring will fix my issues
Update!!
Recieved my parts from tunaman
Replaced quad ring,put in a larger carrier and changed old gold spring for a new one.
NO leaks! No more sticking trigger and bolt, im happy☺
Thanks everyone and especially athomas and tunaman
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...3fce5632f0.jpg
Now to just make up my damn mind on anno
Thats a nice marker. A custom anno job will really make it stand out.
Athomas is it normal to once in awhile chuff while rting?like just slightly once or so dry firing almost 2000 psi
Il put the oil to it before next weekend,perhaps a couple rings are dry
As long as the orings are wet, they will be fine. They don't need much to work.
If you are RTing while shooting balls, a missfeed could cause a chuff, which is what the level 10 is designed for.
You shouldn't have any chuffs if dry firing unless you short stroke. Since you are relying on the bounce of the trigger on your finger, it is possible to short stroke. You want to have the on-off open as long as possible before your finger pulls the trigger again. A longer on-off open time means the chamber will have a better chance at being fully charged. Try adding a shim between your on-off halves. It will simulate a shorter on-off pin and help with recharge.
I will try that,it def does it in the first 1/8 of the trigger pull. I will get a video of it
Added the a level x shim between the on off it chuffed first pull then cycled perfect for 2000 psi rt and single pulls, may also be the brand new carrier o ring needs to break in a bit?
Put in the biggest carrier that doesnt leak
The level 10 oring will break in. The inner surface will smooth out.