I noticed that if I apply pressure anywhere on the barrel that the valve will leak down the barrel, but as soon as I don't touch it, the leak stops. The barrel does seem to wobble a fair bit, this is most likely due to the Noxx twistlock-to-cocker adapter I am using.
I've tried with a Dye SS barrel and still got the leak, although not as loud as the leak produced with the Noxx adapter.
I've tried tightening the frame screw, but I didn't see any significant changes. What could be causing this?
Iirc, the bolt normally sits just inside the barrel (or adapter). I would suspect the power tube o-ring is marginal or the PT spacer is a hair long, and pushing the bolt around a little lets it seal. That's assuming the body/barrel/valve were all lined up in the first place. If it leaks with no barrel, definitely look at the PT o-ring/spacer.
No leaks without a barrel, it leaks just when I wiggle the barrel.
Well, don't do that. :argh:Quote:
Originally Posted by Hook
jk. If your barrels don't have much bolt rub in the breach, you can leave it alone or look for a barrel or new o-rings that fit more tightly. The stainless body tubing seemed to vary +/- 0.005" just from the ones I have seen, perhaps yours is a little larger than 1". Some firmer barrel o-rings might help the barrel. I have wrapped some tape around a Doc's adapter to center and snug it before (one or two turns).
I've got a Doc's adapter on the way (for another marker), but will try the electrical tape solution on the RT and see what happens
Put some tape around the barrel where it fits in the body. That will keep it from moving as much in the body.
Issue solved!
I ordered a couple of Doc's Automag adapters, because I have a stainless steel centerfeed body I wanted to use for a project and the Noxx adapter does not work with a CF body.
When I got my adapters, I was surprised to see how tight a fit they were in both my CF body and the RT Classic's body. So tight in fact that they feel more like breach replacement units that are cocker threaded than merely barrel adapters.
Long story short, Doc's twistlock adapters are so tight that nothing budges in there... And my Classic RT now works like a champ, no matter how much I wiggle the barrel.
You should still fix your marginal powertube oring issue. If you are running a level 7, use a shorter powertube spacer. If you are using a level 10, remove all the shims.