I just got my tank back from hydro and I need to put the reg. back on the tank. Do I just apply some loctite to the theads on the reg and screw it back in?
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I just got my tank back from hydro and I need to put the reg. back on the tank. Do I just apply some loctite to the theads on the reg and screw it back in?
My local shop and teammates never use loctite. In fact, I've heard that you're not supposed to. Just screw it on there and tighten down good. The o-ring is supposed to provide sufficient sealant. Besides, when it's pressurized (filled) it won't come unsrewed.
Later ~ Dave
For your safty and the safty of the people filling your tank and playing with you at the field. DO NOT try and put the reg back on yourself. Please take it to a certified airsmith (even dive shops can do it) to get the reg put back on. To be honest, when you sent the tank in to get it hydroed, you should have kept the reg on it and they would have made sure it got put back on.
Not only are you not supposed to use loctite, there is also a specific torque that should be used when tightening it. It also takes a special bottle vice so that you do not damage the bottle.
Take my advise. Bring it to a shop that will be held accountable if they break it. I'd shop around first, and find someone that says they can definitely do it, and have done it.
I brought mine to Hydro-To-Go in Vernon, NJ. My tank leaked, and he took the reg off to fix it. When he put it back on, he torqued the crap out of it, with a huge wrench. Well when the Aluminum threads on my reg cracked, and the whole thing let go, he said "Hmm... thats not supposed to happen" as if to suggest it wasn't his fault. I was out a Flatline for a month or two, until the WONDERFUL AGDjon helped me with replacement parts.:D
The moral of this story: Dont trust any Joe Schmoe with this task. :confused: :mad:
the first reply was the correct one. Just hand tight is all you need, have you ever played around with an empty scuba tank? you can knock the valve lose by hitting it with the palm of your hand. because they only put their valves in hand tight, even with bottles they fill to 4000 +. I have talked to more than one person on this matter, and if in fact you do want to apply something to the threads they have a food grade grease they use (yes a grease) so the threads come apart easier, they informed me first that most greases will combust under high pressure (so do not use just any old grease unless you want to detionate your bottle) and second that thread locking crap is the #1 cause of bottles to fail hydro (the threads get ruined when the valve is removed and the bottle becomes junk). talk to a long time dive shop owner, the more certifications the better and one who knows a bit about our air systems, the guy around me actually worked for one of the companys who makes the bottles and said the manufactures specifically say not to use thread locking crap on their bottles (he suspects the reg manufactures are ignoring the warning). but yeah thats my novel on the topic.....
What about the loctite 545 thread sealant? I recently picked up a used max flo and it was sent separated from the bottle. It appears to have some type of anti-sieze on the threads themselves, but no signs of there having been any locktite thread locker on them.
Hardrock, you are corect, hand tight is the way most SCUBA shops do it. In fact, when I worked at athe local SCUBA shop, we did just that, hand tight only... However, your bottle will not detonate due to the grease, that warning is for oxygen service and Nitrox service bottles. Putting a little white grease isn't a bad thing, we are talking VERY LITTLE(like a tiny dab) however it really doesnt apply in this case(although won't hurt) The reason they use some grease on the threads is exactly as you say, "so the threads come apart easier", but that is when you are talking SCUBA valves, the diferent materials used in the tank and the valve will cause the two to lock together, whereas, with most paintball ris system's, the tank and the reg are both aluminum. Meaning, no difference in materail and no locking effect. Like i said though, a little dab won't hurt. Just thought I would add my profeesional opinion... :DQuote:
Originally posted by hardr0ck68
the first reply was the correct one. Just hand tight is all you need, have you ever played around with an empty scuba tank? you can knock the valve lose by hitting it with the palm of your hand. because they only put their valves in hand tight, even with bottles they fill to 4000 +. I have talked to more than one person on this matter, and if in fact you do want to apply something to the threads they have a food grade grease they use (yes a grease) so the threads come apart easier, they informed me first that most greases will combust under high pressure (so do not use just any old grease unless you want to detionate your bottle) and second that thread locking crap is the #1 cause of bottles to fail hydro (the threads get ruined when the valve is removed and the bottle becomes junk). talk to a long time dive shop owner, the more certifications the better and one who knows a bit about our air systems, the guy around me actually worked for one of the companys who makes the bottles and said the manufactures specifically say not to use thread locking crap on their bottles (he suspects the reg manufactures are ignoring the warning). but yeah thats my novel on the topic.....
CM
I still would not attach a reg to a bottle myself...but then again, I value my life a little:)
Agreed.Quote:
Originally posted by Muzikman
I still would not attach a reg to a bottle myself...but then again, I value my life a little:)
Like I said, I was employed at a SCUBA shop, so i dealt with tanks all the time...
I don't see what the trouble is. The threads are fine and the o-ring is fine. I screwed it on hand tight and I can't even get it back off with all the gauges and what not on it. Not to mention theres no reason to turn the tank around since its not a screw in.