Automag retarded ... please make sure im right with all of this

So i have been working on my Electro mag for a while and everything i do dosent seem to work, so i need to know if i have everything set up right as far as the body/rail goes .. basically i have a ULE body, X-valve with lvl 10, and a STOCK Rail ... i see all these posts about ULE milling and X-valve milling. everything bolts up and looks normal with the stock rail as it is, im just wondering if thats my problem. Ive built a pnuemag frame, ego frame with electro/pnuematic set-up, i have a tank that is outputting 850 psi, and the gun barely shoots, its like its starved for pressure, but an 850 psi tank with the valve cranked up should shoot a little harder that 145 fps. this happened with both the classic and X-valve. I have always been a cocker guy when it comes to the older markers, so when it comes to mags, im going to need some help here.

The only body and rail that will not interchange with anything agd is the classic rt ( uses a banjo bolt and hard air line from grip to rail)

Oil it up and turn up your velocity. If it starts leaking out the back its too high but wont hurt anything, its built to blow off if the pressure builds up. So id just keep going up with it till you hit that point....

Start there. With the level ten the velocity has to be higher depending on the spring you use

Also, just a thought to help you out.

Do you have any just regular old frames for a mag? To put on and make sure the gun is set up correctly before you mess with all the other frames... just seems like multiple things are making your marker not work.

I took on the task of my pneu setup and buying a used rt pro valve while I was half way through tuning the trigger stuff, and that opened up a whole new bag of problems for me.

Just giving you a suggestion based on my couple weeks of hell with the mag.

i have a benchmark frame, only problem is that i dont have the pin connected to the sear anymore since i cut it off when i started with the pnuemag build

You can manually activate the sear with the panels off the frame. This will achieve the same effect and allow you to test your gun without the pneumatic setup affecting anything.

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Originally Posted by *c-ro*

i have a benchmark frame, only problem is that i dont have the pin connected to the sear anymore since i cut it off when i started with the pnuemag build

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You do realize the sear arms just pop off right? To be quite honest it sounds like you are in over your head. You might be better off setting up a strictly mechanical Mag first and working your way up the ladder. Part of the reason being, it that once you have everything set up in a mechanical marker, you can tune it to make sure everything works correctly and then move up to adding modifications. It sounds like you have jumped in feet first without learning some of the basics.

I'm really kind of at a loss for words. Having never done anything fancy to my mag before aside from a couple bolt on things, putting the pneu setup in was equivalent to being as hard as rebuilding the valve.... the only problem I had was one caused by myself (using a crappy lpr that went out)

Maybe some pics of your 2-3 different setups would help us get you going. And also a picture of the spyder frame in the sear area (the area you are saying wont work with the mag)

What kind of ASA are you using?
some on/off ASAs, if screwed in to far, will choke the tank output psi