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I have an X valve coming my way and I want to eliminate the RTing effect. I am going to be running lvl 7. I may get a cap made for the X, but until then what do I need to do? Where should I start with my adjustable tank output pressure etc. It is coming with the RT on/off.
I think it should be simple, but I tend to overthink things...and I am cheap :)
i would put new on/off orings, measure the on/off pin length. thats at least a start
well the ULT was designed to eliminate the rt effect and only costs $30ish bucks. other than that a longer on/off pin and or a lower (but not too low!) tank output and that should get you the desired effect. Also single trigger frames tend to be harder to RT with.
I was going to say what squid said almost exactly... you could also pneu it for about the same cost as gettin a decent single trigger frame, with just enough tinker to wet your whistle. That's 100% getting rid of it, unless you turn the lpr down for some full auto :)
Since you are using an adjustable tank and a level 7 bolt, you can lower the tank output pressure to about 750psi and reduce the RT effect.
I can confirm that an ULT will reduce the RT to almost non-noticeable.
Really I get 26 bps with my ULT installed :) :)Quote:
Originally Posted by halB
I would suggest pneuing it. The other option is to lower your tank output pressure.
Personally I find it easier to RT holding higher up on a double trigger, about where your top finger would be. So I'm not sure that getting a single trigger frame would help that much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by halB
the high rates of fire associated with the ULT are attained by shimming the on/off assembly and effectively shortening the pin length. If you do not want any RT effect simply remove the shims from your ULT.Quote:
Originally Posted by renie
Can I Pneu it?
http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps8b831312.jpg
Depends on how much time you'd wanna put into it. I didn't know it was that frame.
It would be super tight in there but you may get away with using the.... I forgot the name.... not the msv2, but the smaller 3 way valve? MAP3 keeps coming to mind but I don't think that's it lol.
Edit, its SMAV-3 ;)
Give it to me and I'll give you a Classic valve.........for free! ;)
Thats all it is worth to you...a $50 classic valve? It would be better left on a cocker. :rofl:
Seriously though...
I would be willing to consider a deal with an EXPERT in the Pneu conversion. Hit me up with a PM if you have the proper milling and pneumatic background. I am not looking for a dremel tool botch job. I would like to complete any milling before sending these off for an anno.
So I got a body and the X valve. I am using my lvl7 ANS bolt and powertube bits from my classic valve and it is tight.
I am guessing that I need a bigger powertube spacer. I want to say it had a 220 on it? It worked great with my classic valve, but so tight that I get bolt stick.
I slid only the powertube tip on the bolt and it got stuck coming off. Any advice?
you are using the lvl 7 powertube tip correct?
The powertube tip should fit all bolts without any sticking. If it sticks then there must be a burr somewhere or it is out of round.
I got a new gauge on my dynaflow and it is currently around 500 psi. I had to turn it down as the pressure was well over the new 600psi gauge I put on. That would explain the reactiveness along with the RT on/off. I plan to trade my RT on/off for the modified RT on/off that BT has and see if that helps eliminate the reactive trigger. I put in a new spring and powertube oring. Oiled it up and everything cycles like a champ. I still want to change out the powertube tip and/or bolt just in case.
What is the lowest pressure to have a properly functioning valve? AGD's site states 800 then I read about 400-450psi and then I saw something about 375? If the mag fires at (350psi?) then I would think 450 is about as low as you would want to ever consider. I hope to hit a chrono tomorrow and see where I am for fps as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TimmyJay
The number I saw floated around was at about 650, the RT behaves just like a classic.
When I used an adjustable tank (Nitro Duck X-Stream) I had mine turned to around 725 which kept all RT effects pretty much tuned out/down.
A mag with a level 7 bolt operates around 350 - 375psi. That number could be higher if you use a barrel with a short control bore and lots of porting. A level 10 mag operates around 500 - 550psi.
A level 7 mag should have around 550 psi coming into the valve to maintain a good flow rate, and even more if it has lots of porting. A level 10 mag should have about 700psi or more.
This mag is still really snappy at 500 psi. It must be due to the RT on/off. After my first pull I can lightly tweek my finger and it feels kinda bouncey. Sounds like I am in the ballpark so the chrono will be the real test. I am currently using a 14 inch freak with a proper fit insert.
Thanks for the continued support.
There's the chamber pressure, and there's the AIR input pressure, which I think athomas was referring to.
At 500 PSI, you might starve the gun as the AIR might be a flow restriction.
You would want to gut the AIR and go direct input to get around this, but I think this is not advisable as the full->empty output swing of a single HPA regulator will be too great.
So you're left with trying to feed the AIR at a high enough input pressure so it's not restricting you. I would just bump it to 700.
I hit the chrono today and I had to turn it up to 600+ to get anything consistant. It is still all over the board 255-300 range. Too many things to trouble shoot so I think I will get a new ninja reg and see if that helps. I think I need a new bolt too.