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Here is my frankenMag configuration and problem. Retrovalve vv01478, TacOne mainbody, RT Pro rail, AGD alluminum trigger frame. I am putting 1100 psi to the valve with an Air America adjustable regulator. The valve won't cycle. I can feel the resistance of the on/off pin. I believe the problem is with the on/off pin length with this configuration but I welcome dissenting opinions. If I am right what size pin do I need?
Thanks!
Philip
I believe its a .75
do you have propper trigger rod gap?
As mentioned, you need the proper length pin (0.750") and there should be a gap between the front of the trigger rod and the back of the trigger when you hold the trigger against the safety with the valve aired up. If the level 10 bolt is not properly tuned, it will cause the same effect due to bolt stick. Have you turned the velocity up far enough to cycle the valve?
This valve comes with a .75 stock and no level 10. Also there is plenty of space between the rod and trigger. I started at 800 psi and moved it up to 1100 psi and it still won't cycle.
how much is "plenty of space"?
Changing the input pressure won't make it cycle. Increasing the velocity setting might.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
The gap is roughly 1/16 and I turned the velocity in until it stopped.
Did the valve work in another mag before you installed it into this one? Are both springs installed behind the regulator piston assembly?Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
Did you measure the on-off pin to verify that it is 0.750"?
Used Valve from internet/yes/yes
Try adding a level 10 shim or two between the on-off halves. This will provide the same effect as a shorter on-off pin.
Is the rail bushing in place?
I know this will work without having to jury rig it by adding shims that don't belong. Yes the rail bushing is in place. I don't have nor do I want anything to do with level 10. I have thoroughly verified that all of the pieces are in their correct configuration as far as the basic parts are concerned. I am not missing any parts. Everything is where it should be. Is there anyone out there with this type of configuration that has had a similar issue or can someone point me to a place to send this gun to get it working? Thank you, everyone for the help so far!
Adding shims to the on-off assembly has nothing to do with level 10 and it is not jury rigging it. It just happens to use the same shims. Adding shims pushes the top section of the on-off farther up and separates the top oring from the top of the pin which is the same as using a shorter pin. If this works, you know that your pin length is the issue. Its a simple test, that's all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil
This is going to sound extreme, but put the valve into the body without the bolt attached. Hold the trigger and air it up. Then gently release the trigger and see if air flows out the front. That will tell you if the on-off is opening and if air is able to flow through the valve.
did you try to tighten or loosen the grip frame screws? maybe one/both of them are not tight enough or too tight causing bolt stick? wheres some pics?
That's usually only an issue with level 10 bolts. The body/rail combination would really have to be out of alignment for a level 7 bolt to stick like that.Quote:
Originally Posted by need4reebs
Another thing to try would be to install the valve and bolt into the gun without the bolt spring. Don't air it up. Hold the trigger and tip the gun forward. Tap the valve on the back an see if the bolt slides forward into the breach. That will confirm that the sear is moving far enough to release the bolt.