classic valve w/ level 10 max rof

so when ever i play its either with a x valved mag or a pump mag...the x's never have a problem keeping up with my fingers and the pump is just that, pump and shoot...but when i played with a classic valve w/ level ten it seemed like the valve would not keep up with my shooting...i would get about 3 or 4 quick shots and then the valve seemed like it was starving for air? about 850 output tank(same tank i use on with my x valves)...i know the recharge rate is way slower in a classic but is this the norm for the valve?thanks:headbang:

I think it was capped at 16, before dropoff, although the trigger pull is so heavy, I doubt anyone could get above 10-12ish... maybe spiking, but not steady. IDK man.

The level 10 will generally be a slight bit lower rate of fire than a level 7 mag, but not by much. The average user won't notice, because at that rate of fire, there are more inaccuracies due to user induced gun wobble than by any slight velocity drop off.

Starvation of a level 10 classic valve is more a result of level 10 bolt stick causing a slower than normal reset than it is function of a slower recharge rate.

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Originally Posted by athomas

The level 10 will generally be a slight bit lower rate of fire than a level 7 mag, but not by much. The average user won't notice, because at that rate of fire, there are more inaccuracies due to user induced gun wobble than by any slight velocity drop off.

Starvation of a level 10 classic valve is more a result of level 10 bolt stick causing a slower than normal reset than it is function of a slower recharge rate.

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maybe i just need to break in the level 10 a little more? or do you think i should mess with the carriers? it currently doesnt have any leaks but i know is should be able to shoot faster than 4 in a row wihout drop off?

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Originally Posted by keiko_819

maybe i just need to break in the level 10 a little more? or do you think i should mess with the carriers? it currently doesnt have any leaks but i know is should be able to shoot faster than 4 in a row wihout drop off?

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Yes, if you are not chuffing with the trigger, a classic valve will run over 10bps easily. 14bps in ep's and pneus, and occasionally 18bps with a lot of work.

Do you know if this mag shot fine without a level 10? There are plenty of other causes of shoot down. One is that the trigger rod has no gap behind the trigger.

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Originally Posted by keiko_819

i know the recharge rate is way slower in a classic but is this the norm for the valve?thanks:headbang:

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Its not as slow as you think it is.

Here we go. Classic valve 20BPS no shoot down. Just put a Hyper frame on it.

Where did Hitech Go??

https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...-Classic-valve

https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ghlight=Hitech

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Originally Posted by hitech

ULT should be better. And I made a vid of a classic valve shooting paint at 20bps fullauto, so I think it works just fine. :D

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http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper1.avi

http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper2.avi.

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Originally Posted by Hitech

That is a stock minimag. The tank is a preset PMI 68/3K. It has a level 10 bolt with the short spring (the middle & long spring will not work).

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Originally Posted by Spider-TW

Do you know if this mag shot fine without a level 10? There are plenty of other causes of shoot down. One is that the trigger rod has no gap behind the trigger.

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i dont know how it shot before the level ten but i kind of have an idea its the frame i have on there, its a dye double trigger frame, maybe i could try to use my intelli on it instead

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Originally Posted by Beemer

Its not as slow as you think it is.
Here we go. Classic valve 20BPS no shoot down. Just put a Hyper frame on it.

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interesting

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Originally Posted by keiko_819

i dont know how it shot before the level ten but i kind of have an idea its the frame i have on there, its a dye double trigger frame, maybe i could try to use my intelli on it instead

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Dye frames work fine as long as they don't impede the movement of the sear and on-off or prevent the on-off from fully opening. Most of the time, Dye frames work quite well.

i'm wondering why level 10 on a classic valve, all my level 7 and below work just fine. i figured level 10 was RT and up.

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Originally Posted by vintage

i'm wondering why level 10 on a classic valve, all my level 7 and below work just fine. i figured level 10 was RT and up.

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No. Any mag can chop. Its easy to short stroke a classic valve and cause a level 7 bolt to shoot forward before a ball is fully in the breach. A level 10 prevents this from happening. I used to get hot on the trigger and chop the occasional ball before I got my level 10. I am spoiled with my level 10 now, since I no longer chop. I have gotten to the point where I rarely carry a squeegie on the field anymore when running a mag.

I can hook up my autorespose and hammer it out.

thanks for the explanation, i must have a slow trigger finger.

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Originally Posted by vintage

thanks for the explanation, i must have a slow trigger finger.

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You don't have to have a fast trigger finger to chop. If you use a hopper that is not force fed and tip the gun sideways far enough to move the ball in the breach when shooting, you can chop. Another common chop cause is when the hopper gets near empty. Even force fed hoppers are guilty of this one. The balls don't always feed continuously because they can bounce around in the hopper causing gaps in the ball stack. Even a slow series of trigger pulls can hit a ball that is not quite in the breach yet.

the only time i can remember having problems was back in the dinosaur days when the foamie came off the bolt. other than that the only time i have problems is when working on a marker. if memory hasn't failed me.