Can these be achieved at the same time? Also what is the best tank try to achieve the R/T effect? I can't find a flatline reg so what would be next?
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Can these be achieved at the same time? Also what is the best tank try to achieve the R/T effect? I can't find a flatline reg so what would be next?
You cant RT with a pneu, for RT you just need a high pressure output tank. With a reliable output.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnage reigns
Ive gotten the effect using old crossfire regs and myths, with outputs around 800psi. Higher pressure will allow you to get faster rates and easier to achieve.
Also, Ive found some frames just don't RT very well, was never really able to get an old benchamark frame I had to RT.
I have plenty of new Flatline regs... ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnage reigns
alternatively you could pickup a SHP Ninja reg.
Funny you say that because I was just looking at that. And Tuna I might not get a reg from you but u may get 2 tuning jobs from you.Quote:
Originally Posted by sQuidvision
I knw that too because of the ULT vs RT on/off. I just thought someone may have figured out a way.Quote:
Originally Posted by BiNumber3
How safe is macroline with a tank that's running that high?
Its fine. macro like is actally rated higher than steel braided hose.
unless you get the cheap thin-walled macro....
:nono:Quote:
Originally Posted by knownothingmags
A lot of people will use macroline with pressures around 1kpsi, but it's still not safe. Although a lot of the manufacturers will list their max pressure rating, they don't normally list their normal operating pressure. It will sustain the max pressure as rated, but it will significantly weaken the macroline.
Also keep in mind that macro fittings are rated well below the tubing itself. Although, these are less likely to blow out than the macroline.
back to the original topic, afaik, no one has devised a pneumag w/ an RT effect yet. I've had a few ideas rolling around in my head but never took the time to test anything out. There are (were) a few other members here who are a lot smarter than me that may have already tried to achieve this.
just based on my ideas on how to accomplish this, there just would not be enough room in the frame to house the additional parts needed.
The whole idea of a pneumatic setup is to reduce the force required by the trigger using air pressure. This is done by opening and closing an air passage which in turn supplies air to a piston that actually does the work of pushing the sear. Since the trigger is not part of the force that activates the sear, it cannot be subjected to the return force from the sear either. Thus, you get no reactivity.
A new pnuematic activation system would need to be developed to get reactivity. It is possible and not that difficult, but would require more complexity.
I have to ask why you would want the reactivity. With the pneumag set up you have a trigger pull which rivals that of an Electro.
I have been able to fine tune a reactive valve to act as a full auto by fine tuning the LPR to provide just enough pressure to activate the reactivity.
Is this what you are really looking to accomplish.
I supposed you could get the "reactivity' in a trigger if you went to hydraulic activation. Since the fluid can't be compressed you would feel the pluse from the on/off through sear hitting the ram. I think that a hydraulic system would be harder to create on this small of a scale but in theory it "could" be done.
;)This is now the pressing issue to me. I think the R/T effect better suits me. So macroline is not the answer? I need to know so I can operate my mag with the upmost confidence.Quote:
Originally Posted by TwilightG
I've used the thick walled macroline with an adjustable reg set at 1100psi and never had an issue. ITT as long as you use the thicker stuff and swap it out often, you will be fine.
I have had much better luck getting good reactivity with braided line. My theory is the braided line has a larger ID, and can sustain the higher pressure better, via less restriction. Again this is just my theory, but I did test it as far as swapping between the 2 and I got a better ROF from the braided line.
Is it shrink wrapped?Quote:
Originally Posted by fishmishin
Now my only problem is finding a bottom loading on/off asa
you mean an outlet out from the bottom? if you're hard pressed to find one you can usually drill/tap most asa's pretty easily.
They actually make macro line that can take 10000 psi and even higher. You just can't buy it at most locations due to the price. Macroline for the most part has the same ID as most steel braided line. The steel braid just acts like a protection barrier for the line underneath and keeps it same. That is one area where macroline has a problem. Good macroline is plenty strong as long as it is not scratched or marked. Once it gets scratched or cut, the strength decreases significantly. Macroline should be inspected periodically and replaced if defects are found.
Or if it gets bent on a relatively short radius or wiggled a lot because of the leaky macro fitting.Quote:
Originally Posted by athomas
Who buys the cheap stuff?Quote:
Originally Posted by BiNumber3
The WGP on/off that came on the Karni has a bottom outletQuote:
Originally Posted by Carnage reigns
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Paintball-dr...item2c64016531
in no way related to that sale just using it for visual reference