so... I'm working on this classic RT

if I get a gun and I have the ability to gas it up I do and test shoot it. if not I'll do a complete inspection of orings before I even assume it will hold air and I go through the trouble of gassing it.

so I gas up this classic RT and there's a slight leak down the barrel, nothing unusual as all the mags I'm working on have just been laying around for a long time. The trigger feels weird so I look at the trigger pin and its pressed right up against the back of the trigger. nothing unusual again as some people just dont know.

then I pull the trigger...

and the mag starts running away on me and wont stop until I cut the air.:eek:

write down the problems and file it under "deal with it later"

well later ended up being last night. I pulled the valve and checked the bolt. lvl 10, back bumper is shot and the carrier feels too tight. typical. then I cut my finger, say a swear and look at the back of the valve and find this:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps75561484.jpg
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psb868d857.jpg

then look down the body and see this:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps04f3e137.jpg

well since I know I need to get to the sear I unbolt the grip frame and pull the sear out... yea...
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s...psa2b6fac7.jpg

call the guy up and basically said "who ever took this gun apart before you got it, find and beat the crap out of him."

now I need to replace the bent pin and sear but the pin will be the fun part...:mad:

This was exciting to read. Like a book, even.
Thanks,
Jason

pretty sure tunaman can do the pin. i know he can drill and put one in. hard part is getting it out.

I can do the pin too... I just dont wanna. lol

this is still sitting on my shelf not being worked on.

question for you guys, given the damage that's on it, what would it be worth in THIS condition?

Which pin is that? The Z lock? Trying to figure out the orientation and not lining up.

that is the zlock pin...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BTAutoMag

that is the zlock pin...

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Is it in a different location on a Classic RT than other AGD markers?

It looks like it was overpressured and fired that way.

You could smooth out the body burrs and put the new pin in cheaply. The sear will cost. Depending on the rest, you might get ($200 - the cost of a new sear - some cosmetic damage). The larger problem is that there are a good number of clean RTs to compete with, while fewer people are willing to work on one.

...I can fix this, I just dont want to.

I've been looking for a classic and with a sear it works... just not pretty when you take it apart

I'm looking to make an offer on it

and, it was not over pressured, the damage to the pin happened when someone installed the valve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BTAutoMag

and, it was not over pressured, the damage to the pin happened when someone installed the valve

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Do you think the sear is simply worn? The carbide is kind of far from "chipped", but I guess if it ran well after the first chip...OR is that just build up on the tip of the sear? It looks like carbide remnants.

With a lvl10, I would say ~$130, but if you don't feel it, there are others out there.

lol, I feel it. I collect broken mags, I'm good with them and I'm poor. good combo

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OPBN

Is it in a different location on a Classic RT than other AGD markers?

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Yes. On normal agd markers the pin slides in a groove on the rail. Back left. On the classic rt it is on the right and hooks in a notch on the main body.

An sorry to hear BT. I still love my classic Ygrip rt. And it is my #1 marker.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BTAutoMag

lol, I feel it. I collect broken mags, I'm good with them and I'm poor. good combo

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I've been kinda sorta maybe looking for a cheap classic RT. I have a Perfect frame that is milled for them and if I found the right one... If you're trying to buy it to sell it, like Spider said there are lots of nicer ones out there, and they have sold in the $150-+ range. Heck a really nice smear RT only sold for like $250 or something recently.

I'm looking to buy it for a project. as long as it performs I could care less what the zlock looks like

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BTAutoMag

I'm looking to buy it for a project. as long as it performs I could care less what the zlock looks like

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Even then, they are not bad to replace (except maybe getting that one out). The classic valve uses a roll pin, which I have found at the hardware store and cut to length. X-valves are solid pins, iirc, but the rest are roll pins, right? That one kind of looks like it used to be a roll pin.

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What keeps coming back in my mind is how the roll pin got crushed. Are there hammer marks on the reg adjuster?

The z lock pins are really soft. Simple to drill out.;) Throw that sear away, and check the bolt. It will be a miracle if the bolt isn't wiped out.