force fed hopper and twist lock barrels? great day of play.

Had a great day of playing woods / jungle ball with a group in all the rain and storms we have been getting today. Idk. Just different and sweet with the rain coming down. The new creek of water running through the middle of the playing field. And a swamp now on one side to contend with. Kinda like a real life jungle warfare feel.

In play though I came to an odd question that I do not feel fits in the tech forum. Maybe though. For years I've used a old revolution with my first gen automag rt. No problems at all. Recently I got a halo too for a good price new. So figured I'd step in to the new generation of play. Now I'm having a small issue with paint going past the nubbin and double feeding. No chopping or broken paint though. And I was just wondering if this was a normal deal with the nubbins. Nothing major to stop play. Or slow me down. Just wondering if the change in hopper is truly the difference causing this.

The halo had programming to soften the force feed, I found with the nubbins I usually set the force to the lowest possible, it corrected the double ( or more ) feed and always kept up with my firing still


Styg

Most force fed hoppers MO is to keep the stack under constant pressure by loading up a spring until some setpoint.

The nubbins are somewhat light and can have difficulty with force feed hoppers. And most TL barrels only have 1 nubbin.

And then complicating the matter is if you have small bore paint that will want to also sneak past that already light nubbin.

There are workarounds, but given all the complexity, I'd just as soon get a mag2cocker adapter with 2 detents.

Man I was afraid of hearing that. I love my twist lock barrel. So quick and easy to remove and change. Or clean. Or anything. I may mess with the settings on the hopper. It is set stock. I've never messed with it. If that doesn't work I'll suck it up and look in to an adapter. How sad though. What kind of detent does the adapter use?

OK. Now that I've hunted down the info on the adaptor. Does the spyder detent really work that much better than the agd design? If so first thing I'll try is retrofitting one of them in my barrel.

I actually think they work better as they stick further into the chamber. I'm sure others may have opinions on this as well.

If you have only one barrel that you love, I guess you could try retrofitting it if you have access to the machinery. You could also maybe put one on a less-than-favorite barrel just to test it out... but this is all getting into the complexity.

Haha. This is basic small time fab here. I'm not apposed to slotting the barrel on a mill to put 2 spyder detents in. But I would test that for a good setup. If it worked well I will hunt down a rare twist lock freak and clone the setup with the freak. But I will start with a spyder detent in what I've got now. I really only use 2 barrels. My 12" dye ultralite. And a 16" AA barrel that has a little smaller I'd back and is quieter. But more cumbersome with close quarter speedball.

If you have any other thoughts I'm game. If not. I'll run with this idea for now. Since its gonna cost more in shipping than the detents will cost.

You can modify how far the nubbin sticks into the barrel. There is a small nub on the back of the nubbin. This usually stick up past the outer diameter of the barrel. If you have a barrel that has a slightly deeper nubbin groove or smaller outside diameter the inner surface of the body may not provide any force on this nub to keep the nubbin pushed far enough into the barrel to adequately keep balls from pushing past when there is a bit of force applied. If the nub is sticking up, wrap a piece of tape around the barrel over the nub to take up some of the slack to help push the nubbin farther into the barrel. If the nub doesn't stick up past the outer edge of the barrel, you may need to put as smaller piece of tape on it first or apply a tiny drop of epoxy on it to build it up. Once you get more of the nubbin pushed into the barrel, your problem should go away.

Thanks. I've got plumbers glue. It will work great to do what you are saying. I'll give it a shot.

Yeah if you have a plastic/rubber nubbin, might want to check that out. I've seen those workarounds posted, but people never seem to follow up afterwards and report on how well it really worked, or how long it lasted...

All I've ever used are the wire ones. I just installed a plastic one that I had laying around for the first time and tested it against a reball. That seems to work fine as long as it hasn't deformed.

With the stock twist-lock barrel and a smart parts tl barrel, some light shaking can get the reball past the wire p-nubbin.

On an Armson barrel with p-nubbin, the ball just falls straight through.

Classic barrel with fresh plastic nubbin seems to hold it securely.

1 spyder detent holds it securely

2 ego detents (ego ones are a little more shallow) hold it securely.


It just seems like the TL situation gets complicated when you have different bore barrels with different paint sizes and varying conditions of the nubbin itself.


But try the workaround and report how it turns out.