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i have these concrete cleaners.
will these stripp ano?
what is the chemical bath i need?
if not what is the chemical composition of these that i need?
example 90 parts water to every 10 parts of whatever acid.
yes i know there are services out there to do this for me, i would like to do this my self.
http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/100_0701.jpg
http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/x...e/100_0700.jpg
thankyou,
knownothingmags
maybe this thread will help you.
https://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=256051
I've used Easy Off for some small pieces that I was just messing around with, but seriously, if you are investing as much into your gear as it seems, why cheap out on the stripping part? Have a professional do it and make sure it's done right. If not, they are going to have to charge you to redo it anyways.
^^ +1
unless you're just messing around w/ some cheap parts that you wouldn't mind replacing, just leave it to the pros. it's really not worth the risk
from what i see ill have to get the grip of cash together to get these 10 projects done.
so i will have to leave it to the pros.
thankyou for the help Smooth found thread too much $$$ involved for me to do it right.
twilight -> very good point.
thankyou,
knownothingmags.
I'll throw another stick in the gears though. Make sure that who you are talking to is definitely familiar with paintball markers and tolerance issues. Just because someone is a "professional" doesnt mean that they will 100% do a perfect job. I had an E-mag sent out for anodizing that was obviously left in the stripping bath for too long. The battery pack wobbles without electrical tape on the frame to tighten it up, the grip screw holes don't hold without locktite, the sear pin has to be held in with superglue, the metal in the frame area where the magnet mounts on top was so thin I had to add epoxy into the hole to keep the magnet from breaking through the frame, the board mounting hole is too large and I have to use a bolt on the other side to keep it in, and the safety cannot be used since the frame is so far out of tolerance. Once I got it together, I sent it to Tuna to get tuned and he wouldn't even guarantee the tune due to everything being so far out of spec. He essentially suggested I scrap the frame and get a new one.
who did it? mags are actually fairly forgiving, must have had their heads up you know where or just not been paying attention to the litteral most important part.
by the way you use pure lye to strip aluminum, I use it very concentrated, and VERY hot...
It was discussed at length here before so I won't go into that. If you are really curious you can find it. Brought up more as general "make sure you know your anodizer" warning.
Use muriatic acid. It can be purchased inexpensively at any hardware store. Its the ingredient in concrete cleaner and etcher. Water it down to a concentration that will allow you to easily monitor the rate at which it etches the annodize on the aluminum. You don't want to dip a part and have it disappear.