Emag woes! Someone grab the duct tape!

I'm kidding. I'd never duct tape any automag... I think.
Just received my Emag. :D Version 1.37
Attachment 89146

I have 0 issues with mechanical mode, but e-mode does weird things. Fire, wont fire, fire, fire, wont fire. I haven't tried hybrid mode, just because recently it said Low batt :( But prior to that I noticed the trigger pull was 2-4 mm long. Felt weird? Tight? The trigger magnet on the back of the trigger appears to be dirty/rusted. And behind it where the HES is was dirty. <-- Ok, both are clean now. Moving on. The sear plunger moved well for the gravity test. And TBH, since it said low batt, I am going to stop there and wait for my charger tip to come in... full charge, and see if i have any of these e-mode issues. I read something about the plunger solenoid and how much power it draws/etc. Oh, and I destroyed my saftey by not paying attention. Through various threads I found in the past 10+ years, I have a sinking feeling that I am not the only one who has fubbed up there saftey (lost the ball bearing) Hell, I even smashed the safety through the spring beneath it... and that was NO fun trying to get out. $2 lesson learned.

Something else I learned. It appears that my X valve'd RT ULE doesn't RT as well as my Emag does in mech mode. Does/could this have anything to do with the on/off pin length? And is it safe to assume I could put my X valve w/ emag on/off pin/quad oring, in place of my emag valve and rt on/off pin oring combo.
Little things I have noticed about my emag...
Thanks alot guys,
Jason

Yes, the X-valve is a drop in replacement for your emag valve. All you need to do is change the pin to the emag pin and install the black quad oring.

The safety has always been an issue with the older grip frames. Install a new spring and ball bearing and keep it well lubed so that it won't rust. Lightly sand the ridges on the safety itself so that the ball bearing can roll over the edges without sticking.

Once you get the trigger area clean, it should pull nice and smooth without much effort. You can control the pull force on the trigger using a combination of magnets and spacers in the frame above the trigger. Adjust the length of the plunger assembly to 3.005" from clevis tip to plunger tip to give maximum pull force for your solenoid. The pull distance for the electronic trigger needs to be adjusted using the set screw in the selector switch. Once your trigger distance is set, adjust your trigger magnet to work in that range. Make sure the distance is long enough to adequately activate and then release the HES switch on every trigger pull and release. Don't install the trigger magnet backwards or the trigger won't work.

I figured the X valve would drop in, but before I checked what parts were what, I noticed a different o ring on the top of the emag on/off and the pin length difference. So thats that.
I, honestly, destroyed my own saftey. I pushed it too far, and never even saw the ball bearing pop out. So when I tried to push it back in, it smashed the spring in there between the frame/saftey pin itself. Getting the saftey pin out AFTER I had ran that spring over was REDICULOUSLY tedious. I see the ridges you are talking about, and those angles are pretty catchy (pun intended).

The charger bit comes in tomorrow, and I noticed that I have this...
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...2020.34.59.jpg
So.. cool, its the newer/more powerful battery that someone (iirc) on this forum created. :D So with the generic radioshack charger, 12VDC/1500 mA, how long would/should I charge this battery for? I do know that once its in the green, its not fully charged. 80-90% or so, I saw a post here mention. So that covers that.

Sooo... onto the trigger adjustment/HES. I have noticed that on top of the trigger is this:
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...2020.44.17.jpg
I can add a magnet or two to increase return strength. You have me that far. Ok. Next
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...305_204547.jpg
Inside of the selector switch is a set screw that controls the pull return distance of the trigger. Well, I have tried to fit an allen key in there, and nothing hooks. They are either too big, or just spin and spin. Probably stripped. If I cannot get this to work, I will have to purchase a new selector switch and replace mine. :( I heard there is a ball bearing spring combo underneath of the selector switch, and this makes me sad.
Next:
http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/y...2020.46.57.jpg
There is another set screw in the middle of the trigger. This set screw hold a magnet on the opposite side, which interacts with the HES, and registers trigger pulls. Again, the set screw is probably stripped. New trigger > replacing the old trigger.

Overall, I will have to mess with it more once its charged. I am not very good with electronics, so the best case scenario is that it doesnt give me any more problems in e mode. Worst case scenario is that I send tunaman an email and get this squared away before the weather gets better :D
I just tested it, and even with it screaming low battery I wasn't having any issues in mech mode/hybrid mode. There is something plunger/solenoid related that makes the gun not fire every trigger pull in e mode. Its like that selector switch set screw doesn't let the magnet in the back of the trigger get close enough to the HES switch.
Figured I would update the thread out of optimism.
Thanks,
Jason

The set screw in your selector switch looks good, so it is probably just a matter of finding the right hex wrench to fit it.

The trigger HES magnet adjuster screw looks a bit worn. You might need to get a new one of those. You might get lucky and find a tight fitting hex wrench to fit snug enough to allow you to turn it out for replacement.

:O Just managed to find an allen key that fit the selector switch... turned it a bit, trigger pull length in e mode feels about 3-4 mm, vs the 1-2 mm before. Was cycling before I ran out of air. Between air and a full charge this looks promising.
Thanks,
Jason