Question about the No-rise body.

I'm starting to put together my very first mag. I have a certain style I want to shoot for when building it. I really want to use the SS No-rise body. I have some concerns about the body before I buy one.

I'm going to set up the mag to switch between Pump/semi when ever I feel like it. My concern for the body is, I don't see any ball detent. I see one on the ULE body, but not on the No-Rise. Will this be a problem when playing pump? I don't want the balls to roll out is my only concern.

I know i could easily go with the ULE body, but the No-rise just looks so awesome, and weight means nothing to me.

Also if you guys know if any other problems with that body, please tell. I haven't decided which to valve to use. A RT pro. or Xvalve.

any help would be awesome.

The no rise body uses Centerfeed barrels. The barrels have the detents in them.

Like T said. The detents are in the barrel. Issues you're going to have will be:
1. Finding a CF (CenterFeed) barrel. You can convert any barrel to CF with a drill bit or go with a Doc adapter.
2. The clamping feature on it isn't the greatest. Some hoppers you have to old school it with tape.
3. Getting it milled for pump. They don't come pre-cut.

Any valve will work, I would suggest you tune a lvl 10 for semi and swap out to a lvl 7 for pump. Keep the bolt parts together in a ziplock bag and store it with the marker in it's carrying case or what ever you might use. That's what I do with all my pumps.

A classic valve is all you need. ;)

i have that body pump milled and a 2pc Dye boom stick vert feed barrel and love it man! you can also you a TL to cocker adapter and have more barrel options?

awesome, thanks for the info. I'm going to search for my favorit barrel of all time a 12/14inch dye SS. again thanks for the info it helped a ton.

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Originally Posted by Chonky

awesome, thanks for the info. I'm going to search for my favorit barrel of all time a 12/14inch dye SS. again thanks for the info it helped a ton.

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I have a 10" one....

Why use a classic valve for pump, opposed to a xvalve.. Can you not make the marker a pump if it has lvl 10?

If you feel like fooling with it, sure. People have done it. I'd just prefer not to screw up a lvl 10 bolt using it on a pump. Reason why I swap mine out.

Redic has my baby ATM but this is what I made up a few months ago. Just need a few more items and it's off to anno. I've done a few other things too it since I took this picture like a 45* vert ASA, Magpul foregrip and a few others.
http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/k...s/Untitled.jpg

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Originally Posted by Chonky

Why use a classic valve for pump, opposed to a xvalve.. Can you not make the marker a pump if it has lvl 10?

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You can use a Xvalve, but you gain no advantage except weight. The Xvalve is designed for faster recharge, which won't be a problem on a pump gun, so that speed advantage will be wasted at greater dollar cost.


The level 10 doesn't work well on a pump mag. The wave spring holds the bolt forward to prevent it from allowing the sear to reset. One a level 7 mag, the back of the bolt stem still sits against the powertube oring to seal the front chamber and prevent the residual air from escaping. A level 10 bolt has a vent hole. If it isn't allowed to reset, the vent hole will be in front of the carrier oring which will allow the residual air to escape out through the vent hole. The gun will still work, but it won't be as air efficient and will allways seem to have a leak until you cock it.

i dont have a continuous leak in my lvl10 when it is uncocked. also im running an xvalve.

http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k9...n/DSC00455.jpg

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Originally Posted by captian pinky

i dont have a continuous leak in my lvl10 when it is uncocked. also im running an xvalve.

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It depends on where the bolt ends up sitting in front of the bumper. If the wave spring causes the bolt to sit farther forward than the thickness of a couple of powertube shims, then it often leaks. In yours it obviously sit at a point that doesn't allow the vent hole to be exposed but is still far enough forward to prevent the sear from catching. I wonder how much room you have to allow for wear on the sear. If the face of the sear wears a bit, I suspect you will get some leaking in the future.

I was just thinking about the level 10 leak issue in a pump mag. You can prevent a leak in all instances by installing a pump only powertube tip. Sand/file the back edge of the powertube tip so that it allows the carrier to sit farther forward and it will always block the vent hole and prevent any leaks. You will want to do this on a separate powertube tip. That way you can install a standard tip at any time if you decide to go back to normal semiauto mag operation with the same gun.

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Originally Posted by athomas

I was just thinking about the level 10 leak issue in a pump mag. You can prevent a leak in all instances by installing a pump only powertube tip. Sand/file the back edge of the powertube tip so that it allows the carrier to sit farther forward and it will always block the vent hole and prevent any leaks. You will want to do this on a separate powertube tip. That way you can install a standard tip at any time if you decide to go back to normal semiauto mag operation with the same gun.

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This is good to know. I may try this at some point.