Level 10 woes.

Ok, I got my level 10 the other day and I've had a bit of an experience installing it.

I have an older valve with an old school AGD tourney lock and finally after playing with carriers and breaking in orings, it looks like the 1.5 works. (I sense a pattern here)

I'm also using three shims, although I think I might experiment with 4.

Here's my problem though.
Using the shortest spring I need to screw my velocity nut almost all the way in for the bolt to cycle.
If I try moving up to the next spring, nothing happens at all when I pull the trigger.

I called the AGD tech line and Jon thinks that I may need a new spring pack. They're not supposed to wear out, but he's the one of the techiest techs there is so I went ahead and spent the 12 bucks to order one from Joann.

Hopefully it works. With the short spring the bolt will stop on a dowel or squeegee, but just from looking at it, I'm not sure if I want to stick my finger in there. When the new spring pack comes in (don't have anything to test it with except maybe a flatline spring pack) I'll try again.

Does anyone have any input on this?

When I installed my L10 I needed to put a large spacer in the regulator to get the velocity close to 300, about 3mm, once done no problems at all.

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Originally posted by NPP
When I installed my L10 I needed to put a large spacer in the regulator to get the velocity close to 300, about 3mm, once done no problems at all.

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That is an interesting comment. Does the spacer actually change the pressure point that it vents at.

If this actually works, since this seems to be a common problem, maybe a proper spacer should come with the level 10 kit.

Yes, spring packs do wear out. The problem on standard AIR valve spring packs is that the washer will come loose from the end and the coils will flatten out a bit. It's not a problem if you're using LVL 7, because they usually don't wear out to the point that you can't get up to 300fps, but with the increased operating pressure, I think the spring pack isn't able to build enough resistance on the piston to allow it to operate at the higher pressures.

You can use a spacer inbetween the piston and the spring pack. As long as it has a hole through the center to allow the washer on the spring pack to move back and compress the coils and is the same outer diameter as the springpack washer. This should let it be able to build up more resistance before the adjuster nut bottoms out get it to shoot like you want.

I dont know about you, but my piston likes to bleed off before i bottom out the nut, so i dont see what a spacer would do.

That's the thing.
I can bottom the nut without bleedoff.

Because your spring pack is wore out.

Much to the disbelif of "smartey mans" BlackVCG and Jon at AGD, who doesn't know yet, the replacement spring pack doesn't work.

Again, I can bottom out the Reg Nut and it won't fire or vent.

Help?

Sell it on Ebay and get a new EMag... that would work. :)

Maybe the bolt is snagging with the mainbody washer.

Nope, bolt seems to slide freely in the mainbody.

By shortest spring, do you mean the stock automag spring (not one of the springs from the lvl 10 kit)? If not, give that a try. Otherwise, it seems as though you do not have enough pressure to move the bolt forward. Have you tried the next larger (2) carrier? You could also trim the shortest spring to lessen the back pressure it applies, but that is kind of permanent. :(

Let us know. Good luck.

will someone draw up a diagram of where the spacer should go between the spring-pack and piston? I haven't opened up my mag in a long time, and i'm a bit disoriented :P

I have a simmilar issue with my current classic mag, but I can get it to shoot at 270 fps, using 1 shim, 1.5 carrier, and the shortest spring.

I wanna get mine up to 280-90 fps and stopping on a dollar bill before i'm happy :)