level 10 help....

So I bought an emag valve equipped with a level 10 and just can't seem to get it right.

The first problem was that when I fired it I would get inconsistent bolt stick so I tried going up to the next carrier but that caused it to leak so I had to go back down to the original carrier that was installed.

Next I tried some different springs but that just gave me chuffing or bolt stick and it even started firing once on the pull of the trigger and again on the release.

I'm pulling my hair out over this!

PLEASE HELP!

pull all your lvl 10 shims out then tune it

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Originally Posted by Ando

pull all your lvl 10 shims out then tune it

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I tried that as well, it didn't seem to make a difference.

Anyone have any idea what would cause it to fire when squeezing the trigger and again when releasing it?

Ugh, now it seems to just be going full auto.

Anybody in central New York that can help me out?

Just tore it down. Anything look wrong here? There is some strange residue on from the black o-ring on the top of the on/off pin....

http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...5/DSC00472.jpg

are you using this in an emag? Does the mag hold air when you hold the trigger down? Do you have a chronograph?

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Originally Posted by sQuidvision

are you using this in an emag? Does the mag hold air when you hold the trigger down? Do you have a chronograph?

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I am not using it in an emag, it's in a tac one body with a tac rail and an intelliframe.

If I hold the trigger down it just goes full auto.

I have a chronological but I haven't bothered trying to shoot over it because it's not functioning correctly.

What about that black o-ring at the top of the on/off pin? I looked at an exploded view and it shows a white o-ring.

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Originally Posted by robertreed711

If I hold the trigger down it just goes full auto.

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Bingo! your issue is with your on/off, not the level 10 (so far anyways :p ) When you hold the trigger back it should be putting the on/off in the "off" position cutting off the air flow to the dump chamber and bolt... yours is going full auto because the on/off is letting air past and the sear is pulled out of the way when the trigger is back. The constant air pressure and the spring are fighting causing a full auto effect.

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Originally Posted by robertreed711

What about that black o-ring at the top of the on/off pin? I looked at an exploded view and it shows a white o-ring.

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The black oring is called a quad oring and is used typically with emags. It would work just fine in a non-emag setup but yours needs replacing. do you have an xvalve parts kit? if not go ahead and pick one up... you are going to need those orings eventually.

Replace the quad oring and let us know how it goes. :clap:

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Originally Posted by sQuidvision

Bingo! your issue is with your on/off, not the level 10 (so far anyways :p ) When you hold the trigger back it should be putting the on/off in the "off" position cutting off the air flow to the dump chamber and bolt... yours is going full auto because the on/off is letting air past and the sear is pulled out of the way when the trigger is back. The constant air pressure and the spring are fighting causing a full auto effect.


The black oring is called a quad oring and is used typically with emags. It would work just fine in a non-emag setup but yours needs replacing. do you have an xvalve parts kit? if not go ahead and pick one up... you are going to need those orings eventually.

Replace the quad oring and let us know how it goes. :clap:

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I don't have a parts kit but I pulled one of the white o-rings out of my classic valve and replaced the quad o-ring with it but it didn't seem to really change anything .....

The white on-off oring on the classic valve is teflon. The white one on the retro valve is urethane. The teflon ones don't work properly on the retro on-off assemblies. You will need the proper one. The pin from an emag is 0.712" long. The pin from a standard retro valve is 0.750" long. Using a quad oring on an emag pin is the same as using a white urethane oring and a 0.725" pin.

You should get a proper X-vavle oring kit so that you have all the orings on hand in case of a failure. The quad orings don't come with the kits. You will need to order one or two separate from the kit.

Does your retro valve on-off cavity have the indentation for a single oring on-off top or is it flat for the two oring on-off top? If it is flat, make sure you use the two orings on top of the on-off assembly. If it has the indentation, only put the one oring in.

Ya. Your quad is toast. It's left residue on your on/off pin from the looks of the pic. Make sure you clean that pin off completely before you use it again. If you're going to order a rebuild kit, like Thomas said, make sure you get the Xvlave kit not the RT. The Xvalve kit will have the proper orings for your lvl 10, the RT kit's come with a lvl 7 parts kit.

And while your at it, save yourself from having another aneurysm and order a .750 pin (use a regular oring with that pin not the quad) if you're not using that valve on a emag. That short of a pin on a mech mag will sometimes cause it to go full auto too.

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Originally Posted by Ando

Ya. Your quad is toast. It's left residue on your on/off pin from the looks of the pic. Make sure you clean that pin off completely before you use it again. If you're going to order a rebuild kit, like Thomas said, make sure you get the Xvlave kit not the RT. The Xvalve kit will have the proper orings for your lvl 10, the RT kit's come with a lvl 7 parts kit.

And while your at it, save yourself from having another aneurysm and order a .750 pin (use a regular oring with that pin not the quad) if you're not using that valve on a emag. That short of a pin on a mech mag will sometimes cause it to go full auto too.

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Ok, so it looks like I'm out of commission until I find a parts kit then.

Also, where can I purchase different length on/off pins?

AGD or Tuna. Same place you get your parts kit.

I've been in contact with Tuna, hopefully I can get this thing in tip top shape.

Alright guys, I got a .750 pin and some other stuff from tuna and got this thing running great.

So, now I just got a Retro Valve with a .742 pin that seems to be super reactive. At only 800 psi input this thing will rt all day but if I hold the trigger all the way down it will stop. It will also sometimes fire once when the trigger is squeezed and again when the trigger is release.

I've gone through the whole thing and replaced almost all the o-rings and that didn't help. I also tried swapping the .742 pin with the .750 pin, also no difference.

Any idea what I should look at next?

Change out the top oring with a black quad emag oring.

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Originally Posted by athomas

Change out the top oring with a black quad emag oring.

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Even if I'm using a .750 pin?

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Originally Posted by robertreed711

Even if I'm using a .750 pin?

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Yes. It will lower the sealing edge which is the same as making the pin longer.

Does the retro valve take two orings at the on-off top or just one?

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Originally Posted by athomas

Yes. It will lower the sealing edge which is the same as making the pin longer.

Does the retro valve take two orings at the on-off top or just one?

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As far as I can tell it only takes 1 o-ring.

Make sure it has the recess where the on-off top oring sits. If it is flat, then it takes two orings.

It is definitely machined for one o-ring. I guess I need to find a quad o-ring. I don't really understand why that's necessary though, seems like it should work fine the way it is.

It should work the way it is with the 0.750" pin.

I assume the retro valve is being used with the same body/rail/frame as the other valve that is working. Is the bolt edge in good shape and not worn or rounded?