Noob builder question about automags...

Hello everyone!

I've been told that if I wanted to put together an automag that I should come here..after lurking for a bit it seems I'm in the right place!

So far after researching for a few days I decided I want to pursue building an automag, but one that has a vertical feed and that will use HPA. It will also be a bonus if I can use the Rapidfire feature I've heard so much about..From what I have seen this leads me to think an RT Pro will be my best bet but I am completely new to this kind of marker and would like some input as to how to go about all this. Aside from the lvl 10 and blade trigger upgrades are there any other places I can look into that provide aesthetic mods to the gun like the grips or barrels/ frames/ etc? The gallery has shown me quite an amazing amount of customization!

I'm looking through youtube videos at the moment to try and get my feet wet as to how the marker will be assembled but I imagine there has to be a parts list/ diagram and some form of digital or written instruction. I'd appreciate any input from you guys!

Also: I am curious if the RT Pro has a set list of components, or can you blend in ULE parts? It seems the ULE and no-rise mainbodies seem to be all I can work with in terms of a vertical feed (correct me if I'm wrong).

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Originally Posted by Christofolo

Hello everyone!

I've been told that if I wanted to put together an automag that I should come here..after lurking for a bit it seems I'm in the right place!

So far after researching for a few days I decided I want to pursue building an automag, but one that has a vertical feed and that will use HPA. It will also be a bonus if I can use the Rapidfire feature I've heard so much about..If you're referring to the RT effect than you will need an RT type of valve. Couple of ways to do this. One is to buy a Classic RT. Unfortunately, this eliminates the ability to have a vert feed unless you get in on the preorder for one of XMTs bodies or score a used one. Second and probably better option is getting an RTPro/X valve style of valve. There are multiple types. Retro, RTPro, E-Mag and XValves. All essentially do the same thing, some or all aluminum, some only have aluminum regs. From what I have seen this leads me to think an RT Pro will be my best bet but I am completely new to this kind of marker and would like some input as to how to go about all this. Aside from the lvl 10 and blade trigger upgrades are there any other places I can look into that provide aesthetic mods to the gun like the grips or barrels/ frames/ etc? The gallery has shown me quite an amazing amount of customization!The Armory is a pretty good place to start. Find some markers you like and post links to what you like and ask what parts are on the marker. You can also PM the owner and ask about it as most of us like to talk about our markers, much the way car guys like to talk about their cars

I'm looking through youtube videos at the moment to try and get my feet wet as to how the marker will be assembled but I imagine there has to be a parts list/ diagram and some form of digital or written instruction. I'd appreciate any input from you guys!Look for the Tom Kaye videos. In it he explains how to tear down, tech and about everything you need to know about Automags. Essentially they are all built around the same design and very much interchangeable with the exception of the Classic RT which has several components that are not interchangeable with any other AGD marker

Also: I am curious if the RT Pro has a set list of components, or can you blend in ULE parts? It seems the ULE and no-rise mainbodies seem to be all I can work with in terms of a vertical feed (correct me if I'm wrong).The ULE bodies come in a Vert/Center feed as well as warp feeds. There are multiple aftermarket bodes, almost all of which were/are vert/center feed. There were also Stainless Steel Twistlock AGD bodies that were V/CF as well.

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See what's in red above. There are more or less 3 main types of AGD markers. There are the Classic 68 Automags which came with Stainless Steel twistlock bodies, Classic RT's that came with SS TL bodies, and RTPro style Automags that came originally with SS TL bodies and later with Aluminum Cocker Threaded ULE bodies. Most of the parts are interchangeable between the Classic 68 and RTPros excepting the sears. Otherwise, it's fair game.

Quick breakdown of Automag parts are:

Body
Rail
Valve
Sear
Frame

Optional parts are
Vert ASA's/foregrips
Bottom lines, On/Off ASA's etc
Site rails

This is a quick post. There tons of options. The best way really to decide what you're able to do is 1. figure out your budget. Mags can cost anywhere from $75 for a plain Jane bone stock 68 Automag to a $1k++ one-off custom anode E-Mag or even a $3k SFL. There is a lot of in between. 2. post picks of what you like to give people an idea of what you're looking for and people can give you an estimate of what you may end up spending.

And every Automag can be run off of HPA.

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Originally Posted by OPBN

See what's in red above. There are more or less 3 main types of AGD markers. There are the Classic 68 Automags which came with Stainless Steel twistlock bodies, Classic RT's that came with SS TL bodies, and RTPro style Automags that came originally with SS TL bodies and later with Aluminum Cocker Threaded ULE bodies. Most of the parts are interchangeable between the Classic 68 and RTPros excepting the sears. Otherwise, it's fair game.

Quick breakdown of Automag parts are:

Body
Rail
Valve
Sear
Frame

Optional parts are
Vert ASA's/foregrips
Bottom lines, On/Off ASA's etc
Site rails

This is a quick post. There tons of options. The best way really to decide what you're able to do is 1. figure out your budget. Mags can cost anywhere from $75 for a plain Jane bone stock 68 Automag to a $1k++ one-off custom anode E-Mag or even a $3k SFL. There is a lot of in between. 2. post picks of what you like to give people an idea of what you're looking for and people can give you an estimate of what you may end up spending.

And every Automag can be run off of HPA.

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Ok so basically for me to have an RT-style automag I would need an RT valve at it's heart with a compatible set of parts? My current budget is not necessarily a concern as I do not have a time line I can just build it as I go but since this is more of an experiment I will be happy having a basic automag with an RT valve. I'm not gonna use an exotic setup like a warp feed or 10 round tubes just a standard hopper and tank. IF ANYTHING, I hope I can get the colors in there too but its not a big concern.

the cheapest way to do it would be to just buy an automag that already has the stuff you want: ReTro, RT Pro, or X valve and some vertical feed body. it can get costly building a 'mag from parts unless you manage to get them all from one person, even then that's an expensive way to go.

That is what I'm starting to consider..I've seen a couple already that would be great to start out with but I just have to figure out if its one to settle with lol. My current rule of thumb is to leave the Classic automag material alone since I wont be able to change anything later on if I get one of those.

that's not true at all. an rt pro, retro, or x-valve will all fit into a classic automag without issue. the only automag that is unique and not compatible is the classic rt. the classic rt has a smaller diameter valve and body, as well as a different air input method, so it doesn't work with other bodies / valves.

oh, the one thing you have to keep in mind is the classic rail. there are two styles; one has a square hole and can only accept the classic bodies (direct feed, power feed, minimag). there is a newer style with a square and a round hole that can also accept the rt pro / emag / ule bodies as well as the older style bodies.

http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/RTpro.shtml

there's always this option

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Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude

that's not true at all. an rt pro, retro, or x-valve will all fit into a classic automag without issue. the only automag that is unique and not compatible is the classic rt. the classic rt has a smaller diameter valve and body, as well as a different air input method, so it doesn't work with other bodies / valves.

oh, the one thing you have to keep in mind is the classic rail. there are two styles; one has a square hole and can only accept the classic bodies (direct feed, power feed, minimag). there is a newer style with a square and a round hole that can also accept the rt pro / emag / ule bodies as well as the older style bodies.

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This is not true. ULE bodies will fit on both Classic and RTP rails. Some of the Classic rails cannot accept the SS Emag bodies as the pims were too long. I have had multiple ULE bodies on Classic rails.

And yes when I said incompatible parts with a Classic, I am referring to a Classic RT. Refer to this statement:

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Originally Posted by Me

There are the Classic 68 Automags which came with Stainless Steel twistlock bodies, Classic RT's that came with SS TL bodies, and RTPro style Automags that came originally with SS TL bodies and later with Aluminum Cocker Threaded ULE bodies. Most of the parts are interchangeable between the Classic 68 and RTPros excepting the sears.

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If it were me I'd look for a Mag that is close to what you want. Then you can play with it to see if you like. If you do then you could slowly buy a part here and there to replace things.

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Originally Posted by OPBN

This is not true. ULE bodies will fit on both Classic and RTP rails. Some of the Classic rails cannot accept the SS Emag bodies as the pims were too long. I have had multiple ULE bodies on Classic rails.

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oh, the round nub is shorter on the ule bodies? i figured they would be the same as the ss rtp / emag bodies.

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Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude

oh, the round nub is shorter on the ule bodies? i figured they would be the same as the ss rtp / emag bodies.

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They are. Both ULE, Tac 1 and most if not all aftermarket bodies will fit a classic rail. With that said, neither a Classic AM length body or a MiniMag body will fit on an RTP rail without milling. It would look goofy anyways, but just a heads up.

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Originally Posted by OPBN

It would look goofy anyways, but just a heads up.

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But it happens. :)