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Got a quick question gents. Been having a bit of trouble with Tac-One. It airs up fine and doesn't leak at all until I fire it. Once fired, a bit of air will start to leak from the barrel. If I pull the trigger all the way and hold it in after the marker fires, the leak stops. Upon release it starts again. If I pull the trigger very slightly, the air leak lessens a lot or out right stops.
Any suggestions?
Sounds like the carrier oring... Have you tried replacing it or going down a carrier size?
Ill have to try going down 1 size. Im fresh out of o-rings. Which may be the problem, the O-ring I have in there is the original from when I bought the marker 4 years agoQuote:
Originally Posted by sQuidvision
That IS one of the primary wear parts... Would be worth putting an order on to AGD for some spares.
Ill have to do that. I did go and move back one carrier size. I removed the shim that I had installed as well. It leaked a little bit more. I put the shim back in and its not leaking as much. It kinda does it every so often though..but not nearly as bad.
Should I put one more shim in and see go from there?
Put one more shim in. Lost the RT effect (which is ok with me, cause Im running the Longbow). Still quirky though. It'll leak a tad and then stop..almost does it sporadically.
So does that leave the carrier o-ring at fault?
Yes... I believe so. The shims just relate to lvl10 reset, not your leak.
Shims will make your bolt leak like a sieve if too many are installed.Quote:
Originally Posted by sQuidvision
Did you try a new bolt spring?
Nope, thats one thing I didn't swap out. Ive been running the gold spring. Ill have to try it with the red spring.
I just took it out, not good. I did have the 1.5 carrier in. I switched it to the 1 dim. carrier with 1 shim. It does not seem to like that, only when paint is in the marker...Does that make sense?
Ill try to and put the red spring in.
Red spring still has a leak and chuffs after every shot. Should I put the 1.5 carrier back in?
This sounds like a shim issue. The vent hole is right at the edge of the sealing surface of the carrier oring. When you pull the trigger slightly, it pushes the bolt back a bit so that the vent hole is not longer exposed and the leak slows or stops. When tuning your level 10 bolt, remove all shims before attempting any adjustments. Any adjustments won't necessarily be accurate if shims are installed. After the shims are removed, you will be able to find out the proper carrier size for your oring.Quote:
Originally Posted by Enhander
When you went to a smaller carrier at the same time you removed a shim, the extra friction of the tighter oring on the bolt stem would push the carrier farther back rather than allow the bolt stem vent hole to move behind the carrier oring. This is why it still leaked when you removed the shim.
The actual bolt spring you use won't have any effect on the leaking except that a stiff bolt spring could artificially force the bolt to seat itself into a carrier oring that is too tight. This will prevent an immediate leak, but could cause random bolt stick issues where the gun won't fire after sitting for a while.
Start from scratch and remove the shims and then install the largest carrier that does not produce a leak with the oring that you are using. Make sure you use the same white carrier oring each time.
Ok. That always confused me.
0 shims to start out. Get the biggest carrier that does not leak, and then add shims as needed. Use the same white o-ring.
Ill try that out.
Ok, I think I might have pinned it down. 1.5 Carrier was the biggest that didn't leak. I put 2 shims in and it seems to remove the leak entirely. Need to chrono to make sure.
That may have did it. I was chroming at 273-277 with the red spring, 1.5 carrier and 2 shims. I did noticed that there is a very very slight leak..almost unnoticeable sometimes. But it usually goes away once fired.
does it leak without the shims?
Yes sir,
6 drops of oil in the macro fitting closest to the valve, take off the barrel, and dry fire a couple dozen times. ;)
That was the first thing I did :P
You need to get it to not leak at all without any shims whatsoever, using the gold spring.
Sounds like you need to go a size 1
Honestly, if it's barely audible and goes away after shooting a couple times, I wouldn't worry about it. It'll break in.
I dont think there is much breaking in left n a 4 year old gun. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Justus
Guess I should have clarified. I started out with no shims and there was no initial leak. It only leaked when the trigger was pulled. I installed 1 shim and it improved. Installed 1 more and it almost 100% went away.Quote:
Originally Posted by Henchman
Make sure the entire valve air path and trigger assembly is completely clean.
Adding shims won't make the leak go away. Shims move the carrier assembly farther back in the powertube so it will actually be closer to the bolt stem vent hole. Run the bolt without any shims installed. You only need the shims installed if the bolt moves forward when you shoot, but does not move far enough to vent air if it hits something in the breach. If it vents, chuffs, or fires at all, adding shims won't help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Enhander
What do you mean the leak only went away when you installed the shims? Are you referring to the leak disappearing after you fire a shot, or after you pulled the trigger part way? If you are referring to the leak disappearing after a shot when shims are installed, it is because the shims are causing the carrier oring to be close to the vent hole when the bolt resets and allowing the residual pressure to dissipate faster. Any deviation in wear will cause your system to start leaking due to the vent hole being very close to the sealing edge of the oring.
The tiny leak is normal due to the low pressure left in the chamber after a shot. It isn't a high enough pressure to push the oring with enough force to tighten its grip on the bolt stem in a timely manner. Once you release the trigger the higher pressure air seats the oring and the leak immediately goes away.
Athomas is right, shims should only be added if the bolt hits a ball before its in the breach and wont reset and fire again.
to test this stick a squeegee into the breach from the front of the body part way, don't put it right up to the bolt, about 1/2-2/3 way in
Fire, if the bolt cuffs and resets your good, if it wont reset add a shim.
Springs are for soft or harder paint, I prefer the red spring for most the paint I shoot.