Although the comment about old memebers was not cool, ill ignore it and add my bit. Here is the how to build a mag thread: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=93595
Hey guys this is my opinion on the subject. You may believe there is a better way so post it! This is not all inclusive and doesn’t intend to be. I hope the mods sticky this since this question gets asked about every ten minutes on AO.
How to build a mag.
Well, one day I was running around a few forums and noticed that more and more folks wanted to build there own mechanical Automag. I believe the increase in Automag interest stems from AGD’s new line of innovated products. Previous Automag owners had problems with weight and chopping. Both of these problems were solved in the last year by two major product groups, The Level 10 Low Impact Superbolt Kit and Ultra Light Engineering (ULE).
The Level 10 Low Impact Superbolt Kit was designed as a dual stage bolt. The first stage, when confronted with a foreign object that applies an opposing force, allows gas to be vented when a ball is half loaded in the breech. The second half continues to close the breech bolt area and fire the paintball.
Ultra Light Engineering (ULE) is a multitude of products rather than a single part. The theme of ULE could be summed up as follows “make a bunch of the cool stuff we always had, yet out of aluminum and add a few improvements.” ULE products include:
• ULE body- cocker barrel threads, angel thread vertical feed or warpfeed, angel ball detents
• ULE body rail- interior of the body rail is milled of excess material
• ULE Emag trigger frame- unnecessary material is removed to decrease weight.
• X valve- Same as the retro, emag, and RT pro valve yet made out of aluminum and also includes the lvlX bolt
• ULE trigger- takes the stock mag rigger from a 3lbs pull to a 15oz pull.
These are all great products however lets get to the mag building!
GT’s Tips for building a mag.
1. Take your time! Remember you are working with a lot of Al to SS connections and parts can be easily stripped!
2. Air fittings= Blue Locktite
Other fittings= drop of oil on first few threads
3. Blue Locktite is your friend. AGD uses red locktite on a just about all of their hose connections. I prefer blue because I like to be able to take the stuff off without breaking a sweat.
4. Buy stuff that you like. I noticed that even when I completed my mag that some folks didn’t like my drop/tank setup. Well it’s my gun and my opinion is the only one that matters.
5. Do not force any parts! There should not be any reason at anytime to force parts together. If they were machined properly then they will fit. Sit back and revaluate how you are putting them together. Maybe another part is interfering and not allowing you access at that angle.
6. For used parts particularly anything that will have an air connection make sure that are very very clean. Go to your favorite hardware store and buy a set of dental pics. Take the dental pics and clean every single thread.
7. a note on Teflon tape this stuff is only good if you are in a bind. It can be a real mess if you have not used it before. It is good to take to the field for emergencies but beyond that it can cause more harm than good. However the best way, I believe is to wrap the air fitting twice with a very even thin coat. Do not place on the first few threads, but if you have to, because you cannot fit many threads into that location, then make real sure that none of the tape, and I mean none, will be exposed to the air source. I am willing to bet TAG and AGD can’t count how many guns come in for service and clean massive amounts of Teflon tape out of the regs. Take home message: this stuff can be nasty avoid use if possible.
How to build a mag, finally!
<a href="http://underconstruction.typepad.com/home_sweet_home/fb9bd6cc.jpg"><img alt="fb9bd6cc.jpg" src="http://underconstruction.typepad.com/home_sweet_home/fb9bd6cc-thumb.jpg" width="450" height="301" border="0" /></a>
Click above picture for the uber huge picture!!!
1. Start with the fore grip and screw it to the body rail. The screw will go through the body rail and into the grip frame. On my Omega/ER fore grip there is an o-ring between the rail and fore grip, if you have the same make sure that o-ring is present. When they are tightened together the fore grip should not rotate when light force is applied in either direction.
2. Bolt on the body and the trigger frame to the body rail. There is a 10-32 3/8” screw that goes through the trigger frame, body rail, and is threaded into the body.
3. At the rear of the trigger frame add the rail bushing. Push the rail busing through the rail and into the trigger frame until it is flush with the top side of the body rail
4. Add your valve
5. Apply a small amount of Blue Locktite(BL) to your first air fitting. You only need about 2 drops. Make sure you do not apply any to the first thread going into the valve. Screw in the first air fitting. IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE SO TIGHT THAT IT MAKES YOUR NUCKLES WHITE! Just rotate the open end to your desired location and allow the BL to dry. Once the BL dries it will provide and excellent seal.
6. Now add BL to your quick disconnect (hose/macroline/microline or whatever air line you are running) and allow to dry, again it doesn’t need to be super tight to seal properly. I add them in this order because the “wings” on the Omega rail will interfere with the air line.
7. Connect the rest of your air fittings using the BL method.
8. Bolt on your ASA, dropforward, and tank
9. Screw in your barrel, place hopper on body, connect airlines, gas up and OWN!
GT’s Uber quick LVL 10 guide
I bought an X valve from AGD and it was nowhere near close to the proper setting. So here are some tips to help.
1. Take off the bolt and spring
2. Pull of the PT nut
3. take out all the shims and the carrier
4. toss in the 2.0 carrier and place an o-ring inside the carrier
5. reassemble w/o shims, and use the middle spring
6. Screw in the velocity adjuster about ½ inch. I know it sounds crazy but crank down on that bad boy!
7. If it doesn’t leak go with a larger carrier, 2.5, 3.0.
8. If it leaks and the sound changes when you touch the bolt (don’t put your finger in there and fire it just yet) go with a smaller carrier.
9. Once the correct carrier is found toss in 2 shims
10. Use the something about the size of a paintball, put it in the breech and pull the trigger. It should make a chuff, chuff ;) sound. If the bolt doesn’t reset add another shim.
11. final test put on a barrel condom or plug tape a paintball half way into the breech. Pull the trigger until the paintball gets chopped. IF you run out of air, your hand gets tired then the lvl 10 is setup properly. If not start over with the above steps.
Great posts GT. They're a bit lengthy to add in their entirety into the original post, but I'll edit the post to point them here.
thanks for the FAQ. new to the automags site. hope to own rt pro before end of summer and emag next.
I've been out of the game for a while, but it's so great to know that AO is still around.
I regret having to sell my Minimag last year... really bad financial situation even before the economy tanked.
Needless to say I'll be cruising the classifieds.
Thank you, AO, for still being here. :clap:
p.s. please notice my join date :rolleyes: been here since '01. Not a noob, just been away for a while.
pitcure how to
how do you put a picture on a post i keep trying and it has an upload error
-E-mag valve: is the same as an RT Pro/Retro Valve, but will always accept a ULT on/off
Bolded part is false. Old E-Mag valves can have a single o-ring around the top of the on/off pin rather than the dual o-ring that is now standard.
I know I've been away for awhile but how do you post pictures to your threads now a days? Every time I try to up load one I get an error, any help and a walk through on how to do it would be appreciated.