WELL??? How are they working!?

Hi all, well got the shoebox (#68) all set up with a desiccant filter between the compressors on the end of a 15ft air line. Tried it out on a Logun pro, no go, found a line leak and corrected. Not enough volume to over come probe leakage, so switched to direct fill of a Anz 2002 tank which was near empty, about 10 minutes ( apx 2900psi). That went well so got out the Walther 300 bar rifle tank. starting at apx 100 bar 10 min to 225 bar and it shut off. Gave a quick inspection , started up again got to about 275 bar and it shut off. Everything seemed ok at that point although I thought that the shut off was a bit early. Messed up when removing tank ( forgot it just is a simple pin valve and not a pressure activated one like the ANZ) so lost about 1/2 of what I had just pumped when I cracked open the relief valve. Added a little lithium grease to shafts and started over from around 225 bar. I shut it off slightly before it hit the gauge redline, ( it was still merrily pumping away) about a needles worth so say about 4000psi. About 10-15 minutes. So far so good.

Thanks for the feedback Blades!

Tom

hooked it up and started running today . Filled one 68ci tank already and now filling an 88ci tank . So far not a hitch . :bounce:

Have filled and ran the unit for a good 20 hours.
did a chain alignment to reduce noise
been lubing chain and pivots with oil. need to buy some lithium grease.

hooked a Watt meter to it for fun and confirmed it at 300 Watts when fully loaded 4500psi/85psi feed.

Runs amazing

Have a regulator that will get hooked to it for full flexibility of pressure output.

more later

Here is an update to post 3 in this thread. It is back up and running! yay!

Turns out I killed not only the 2nd stage backcheck oring and seat, but the internal orings as well. They look almost melted. I must have let the lube get away from me. I am using a really old can of white lithium, so I'm going to get some new stuff in case it breaks down eventually or something.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fFcm6Z3wTOE/TG...0/P1020209.JPG

This thing is a joy to work on once you get the hang of it. Very straightforward design.

I also verified the piston rod adjustment, and it's very easy.

Thanks again,
'wose

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Woodwose

Here is an update to post 3 in this thread. It is back up and running! yay!

Turns out I killed not only the 2nd stage backcheck oring and seat, but the internal orings as well. They look almost melted. I must have let the lube get away from me. I am using a really old can of white lithium, so I'm going to get some new stuff in case it breaks down eventually or something.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fFcm6Z3wTOE/TG...0/P1020209.JPG

This thing is a joy to work on once you get the hang of it. Very straightforward design.

I also verified the piston rod adjustment, and it's very easy.

Thanks again,
'wose

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What shop compressor are you using? Is it oil less? Are you using any filters before it goes to the Shoebox. Did you put any oil on the chain?

How did you verify the piston setting.

When reassembling the cylinders DO NOT torque down the hollow set screws on the cylinder ends. You should be able to loosen them with your finger.

Also forgot to ask, how did the small spacer look in the cylinder? Did you use it or replace it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShoeBox Tech

What shop compressor are you using? Is it oil less? Are you using any filters before it goes to the Shoebox. Did you put any oil on the chain?

How did you verify the piston setting.

When reassembling the cylinders DO NOT torque down the hollow set screws on the cylinder ends. You should be able to loosen them with your finger.

Also forgot to ask, how did the small spacer look in the cylinder? Did you use it or replace it.

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Shop compressor is this one. Does this qualify as oil-less? It does use oil, but in the motor/crank assembly, not the air inlet or anything, so I assumed it would be fine. Bad assumption?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915310000P

No filter between the shop compressor and the shoebox, but I plan to get one.

Didn't oil the chain. Should I?

Verified the piston setting by using a bicycle spoke to feel the backcheck valve for when the piston touches it and setting the length right there.

Left the hollow set screws finger tight, but I feel like I should double-check these now :)

The small spacer (part 16) looked fine.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks,
'wose

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Woodwose

Shop compressor is this one. Does this qualify as oil-less? It does use oil, but in the motor/crank assembly, not the air inlet or anything, so I assumed it would be fine. Bad assumption?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915310000P

No filter between the shop compressor and the shoebox, but I plan to get one.

Didn't oil the chain. Should I?

Verified the piston setting by using a bicycle spoke to feel the backcheck valve for when the piston touches it and setting the length right there.

Left the hollow set screws finger tight, but I feel like I should double-check these now :)

The small spacer (part 16) looked fine.

Thanks for the help!

Thanks,
'wose

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Ya bad assumption. We advise oil less. Oil will cause the seals to fail like that. You will have to lube the chain at some point. We were trying to get the chain to fail after over one hundred hours of running then someone came in and lubed it. :( Dont use oil it will sling all over the place. Use a filter, dirt particles will cause the back check seals to fail.

The piston should JUST miss the back check.

I have serial number 033 and let me say the Shoebox compressor is awesome. Mine has been trouble free and I have now used it to fill my Airhog Piglet tank about 5 times. On each fill the compressor stopped dead on at 4500 psi. What more could one ask for from such a small and efficient device. On the first fill it took a little more than 4 hours and averaged about 1000 psi per hour. This thing is great.

I keep the cover off when filling and keep a small 8" fan aimed at the cylinders and have had no heat problems. Will install the muffin fan I ordered when it gets here next week.

Tom, you did a great job as well as the whole Shoebox support crew.

Carl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by quickster47

Mine has been trouble free and I have now used it to fill my Airhog Piglet tank about 5 times. On each fill the compressor stopped dead on at 4500 psi. What more could one ask for from such a small and efficient device. On the first fill it took a little more than 4 hours and averaged about 1000 psi per hour. This thing is great.

I keep the cover off when filling.........

Tom, you did a great job as well as the whole Shoebox support crew.

Carl

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What is an Airhog Piglet tank and how big is it? What input pressure you set at?
At 85psi in on a 70ci/4500 its about 1500psi per hour.

There are no heat issues running with the cover on. Be safe keep the cover on when filling.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShoeBox Tech

What is an Airhog Piglet tank and how big is it? What input pressure you set at?
At 85psi in on a 70ci/4500 its about 1500psi per hour.

There are no heat issues running with the cover on. Be safe keep the cover on when filling.

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The Piglet is a miniature carbon fiber air tank and holds 17 cubic foot with a displacement of around 120 cubic inches.

My input pressure is set around 85 psi.

Carl

Had a sticking bleed valve - took all of 30 seconds to fix. dumping tank reg output back into the output sealed it right up. I had to spin the tank into the ASA I was using to get a good "pop" of air - but it seated right back up and works great.

only problem so far - maybe 20 hours on it.

Topped off my scuba tank from 2200psi to 3100psi and it took a little over 6 hours. I shut it off avter 3 houra AND LET IT COOL OFF AND LUBED SHAFTS AND THEN RESUMED. 6 hours was total run time.
No problems and it works like a champ, serial #40

the punkworks one blew a fuse, for the reasons that were already solved though. the spring making contact lost force and blew the fuse.

we are in progress on the already specified repair

I have filled one tank completely and another is halfway. I noticed it gets a bit hot, but I found shutting it down halfway through the fill keeps it from getting touch-burning hot. I know it probably gets this way from normal function, but I like keeping it cool to prevent any overheating. Lubing it every 2 hours of fill with the lithium grease.

So yeah, so far so good!

I found that placing a small fan (mine is 4 1/2" diameter) in front of the air block, helps cool it considerably. On my unit it lowers the temp down from 105 degrees to 84 degrees Fahrenheit. :)

Only issue that I have had is the occasional sticky bleed valve. Tom said he was working on a new one though.

Clapinski

yes we have new bleed valves in stock now. I am back in Chicago so I will work on getting some out next week.

TK

what did you change on the bleed valve?

Alright - so I blew a fuse. I assumed it was the fuse holder - so I went out and grabbed another - tossed it in - turns out it's a seized piston. So, I guess I'm moving on to that now.

First thing to check is if the cylinder rotates on the piston shaft. If it does, then one of the delrin tubes clamped down on the shaft. We went too tight on the tolerances.

If that's the case, see if you can unscrew the hollow set screw that holds the spacers in. That will allow you to disassemble the cylinder and get everything apart without damage.

Tom

can't find my snap ring pliars - so until I pick up a new pair we're in a holding pattern. I pulled the output tube and the cylinder seems pretty well locked in place - it doesn't want to turn on the piston.

Try heating up the shaft end of the cylinder with a HOT air blower. Get it up over 150-200F and see if the shaft will pull out. I still doubt the cylinder is locked up if it turned off by itself and then blew the fuse on restart.

Tom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AGD

Try heating up the shaft end of the cylinder with a HOT air blower. Get it up over 150-200F and see if the shaft will pull out. I still doubt the cylinder is locked up if it turned off by itself and then blew the fuse on restart.

Tom

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Once I get my snap ring pliers I'll report back. I've got a heat gun - so that will be my second move if it won't slide out on it's own.

cylinder will not rotate on the piston. I'll try the heat gun in a little while and report back.

One thing that I have noticed is that when I am filling, the compressor intermittently makes a high pitched squeaking noise. I believe that it is the flanged bushing #48 rotating in part #25 jack shaft mount G5. I can see that it rotates in the bracket pretty frequently. I was wondering, isn't this supposed to be a press fit? If so, then I believe that I should disassemble it and apply some Loctite to prevent it from rotating and wearing out the outside of the bushing.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks,

Clapinski

Yes your right it should not rotate. See if it will stop with locktight.

Tom

Just got mine up and running finally after buying at living legends. I filled one tank but need to get some Grease and an air filter. What filter have people found to work well between the compressor and shoebox?

Swamp

The compressor output needs to be filtered. A standard shop air filter should be sufficient to catch any big crud and liquid water the compressor might spit out.

There are plenty of 'better' filtering options available but they will cost you more than you spent on the shoe box, so I don't really expect anyone is going to goto that level of filtration.

As I was inspecting my compressor I noticed that the bushing #45, located between the crank shaft #19, and the connecting rod #53 has completely worn down on one side. Causing play in the connecting rod and a clunking noise when running.

With the crank arm pointing to the two o'clock position, there is an 1/8" of play in the connecting arm. I can move the shaft block and pistons in and out an 1/8".

I want to disassemble and post some pics, but I want to find some crimp washers first. I have never had any luck when removing them.

Any advice would be appreciated.

clapinski

EDIT:

Well the washers came off real easy.

Now that the connecting arm is off, when is slide the pistons in and out, there is a spot as I begin to insert the pistons into the cylinders where is hangs up slightly. This is exactly where the connecting arm failure occurred. That bit of resistance was enough to wear out the bushing on that side.

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/x...i/GEDC0811.jpg

EDIT_2:

I removed the stage 2 cylinder and everything checked out OK. The resistance I am feeling is actually the piston passing through the o-rings. So there is not a whole lot that can be done about it. The delrin sleeve slides smooth and easy. I re-assembled and purchased a new bushing from Lowe's. Not exactly the same but just like #46. So I just knocked out the old one inserted the new and cut off the excess with a hack saw and cleaned it up. Back up and running now.

Somehow my browser was not showing a new post in this forum. Sorry I am late to the party. Sounds like you got it worked out ok bravo! Oil the bushing occasionally and it should do fine.

Tom