Are you planning on painting it? If so stealth black, murder it out!
Looks good so far
Are you planning on painting it? If so stealth black, murder it out!
Looks good so far
The gear will,,,,,,should fit in the back seat, I hope, and where i screwed up was making a minigun that shot at a rate of almost a dollar a second. lol Making it unaffordable to shoot. lol No, I have not played in almost 6 months. I plan to very soon when I recoop some moneys. :D But I would need to stop spending money on the car, but since I am scheduled for the end of the month to have the body work done i dont thing that is going to happen.
Start a thread on the bus man!
46mm? Thats going to be fun.
I plan to paint it in the next month or so if I can sell my purple mag. I am scheduled to have the body work done by a local guy at the end of july. It will be the same as it is now, white with the same black stripes. I also plan to order a DIP kit so I can change color with a days work and if I dont like it just peel it off. These look fun and wont damage the paint.
Now for todays car work I installed new rotors to match the rear ones. These were the ones I thought did not fit but as it turns out they do.
Ok,,,,,, so I am starting to want to beat some ass at Performance options. Lazy ass hacks! More missing little parts in the brake system. I had major issues with the rear brakes that cut a groove in my rear rotor and required me to get new ones. The problem turned out to be, not the caliper that was sticking, but the clips that hold and center the pads were missing. This allowed the pad to set crooked when not braking and allowed the pad to vibrate.
Here is the damage, you can clearly see the groove that was cut by the leading edge of the pad as it sat crooked with the upper edge making contact as you drive down the road. They swore it was something got in between the pad and rotor. I swore it was the missing clips and they told me they were not really necessary. I installed new clips and problem solved.
Now I Put these new rotors on the front and drive it less than 10 miles and the rotor is howling around corners. So i take it all apart and discover missing retaining clips on the front pads,,,,Again! Ant this is the damage. Same as the rear!!!!!!!
You may ask why the old rotors did not do this and I suspect it was due to the smooth old rotor surface allowing a smooth contact and not starting the lathing process. The new rotors with there brushed surface did not allow for smooth contact thus starting the lathing action.
Here is a better shot of what I mean by the leading edge cutting into the rotor because it is allowed to set crooked without the clips.
See the how the edge matches up tho the groove
And why it is a thin 1/2" wide line.
Wow. Seems like you got taken pretty bad by those guys. I hate people like that, giving all mechanics a bad name by being a hack. Leaving people like me to clean up the mess.
It makes a guy wonder sometimes if it is just the complexity of vehicles these days or if they just get in a hurry. I suspect its both because I am really good with mechanics and still find myself taking something back apart because I forgot that pointless little part. :tard:Quote:
Originally Posted by sjrtk
But that is exactly why i paid for a professional job :rolleyes: so I dont have to worry about things like this.
I got the new hardware set with clips and problem fixed. :cheers:
Originally Posted by hill160881
It's because nobody is going to take care of your car as good as you would. Mechanics don't worry about the little details because they need to crank out the work in a speedy fashion.
No BAD mechanics don't worry about little details. Good mechanics do it right and fast the first time.Quote:
Originally Posted by kill-n-spree
Remember is i screw up you have just as good a chance killing me in a wreck as anyone else. So I just do it right once your car or mine.
Know that all to well. I still have issues with a braking system on one of the trucks, I learned the hard way after a local guy did the brakes. Long story short, brakes fail, truck went smashing through a parked car and a fence.Quote:
Originally Posted by sjrtk
It just keeps going.
A update on the exhaust system. It is falling off and according to the shop I took it to it was not run properly. The pipe is hitting the bottom of the car and the axle is hitting the pipe. So something else not done right the first time.
Do you have an attourney? You really need to talk to him and see if you have a case against that original shop... Put them out of their misery and do a few thousand people a favor...Quote:
Originally Posted by hill160881
no kidding! it sounds like this shop absolutely screwed you over in every way possible. Is any of there work still in place in the car?Quote:
Originally Posted by Carapace
I also went to a rear end shop to see about doing something about the wheel hop I am getting. :mad: I was told, as I suspected, that it is axle wrap and partially caused by improper pinion angle. So another $400 in adjustable rear links so I can adjust the pinion angle that they got wrong when they mounted the new brackets on the axle. :cry:
Much of there work is still there but just as much has had to be re-done. I have looked into small claims and it would cost me over $600 just to file against them and an attorney friend said I had a 50/50 shot at winning. He also said I could not sue for more than 2 grand and expect the judge to take me seriously. Also he said that people like me dont always get a fair shake as people who build there own cars are sometimes looked down on by judges for some reason as non conformist.
So its not worth the major effort for a 50/50 shot at 2 grand. :cuss:
I could save money and build a site showing them for who they are.
Funny part is they are the most well known classic Toyota tuner shop in the country :rofl: With many magazine cover car builds. So I can have a huge effect on there reputation.
How small claims??? most of the work if you had a shop do it all would cost WELL OVER 2 grand... that's gotta qualify for higher than small claims court...Quote:
Originally Posted by hill160881
Just breaks my heart to hear all this...
I thought about this thread when I saw this video:
I've seen people post songs on Youtube/Facebook describing their poor customer service and ended up with results. You could do something similar and maybe get their attention. Good luck!Quote:
Originally Posted by hill160881
So today I made a ABV plate from some eighth inch flat stock. I also made a gasket from universal material. My neighbors must love the sound of a grinder at 8am. This should allow me to get the extra 4-6 psi my pulley set provides and takes about 15 minutes to install. It however requires the charger to run allot more for normal driving. Hell of a difference with another 40-50 hp lol. Really fun to rip the first two gears up to 65mph.
I also pressure washed the fender wells and some of the under body. They need some touch up from an oil based rattle can. Flat black will do. Once it dries some I will tape off what does not want to be painted, then go at it.
And the front
Last update for now is the front windshield seal directly from toyota is here and will be installed next week.
The old one is getting bad
New window seal installed!
Super sweet, no more leak and the howling when driving down the highway is almost gone. :dance:
Window channels are next!
Then the door seals.
Gonna be a wonderful atmosphere when all you can hear/feel going down the road is the wheels rubbing the pavement :D
So I may be really bad at body work but I wont get any better not doing it so here we go.
First step is to remove those old stripes. Now this is not hard with a eraser wheel and a drill. But I never have the right tool handy so I looked around and came up with this instead. It worked perfectly and did not damage the paint at all.
Soft indoor roler blade wheel and a screw with washers.
Once the wheel is used up
After removal it looks like new paint where they were.
The start of the work. I dont want to here about bondo being crap as the door is rusted out and needs replaced and these are the only dents on the car getting bondo.
Looks beautiful, Hill! Amazed as always!
I hate body work! I can do drywall so well that I almost dont need to sand. Did it for years. This bondo on the other hand is no fun at all:evil: Maybe I should get better tools, haha. I will get it but it is a learning process.
Edit: yep I got out my 12 inch drywall trowl and I wont be using those plastic ones in open areas again. Now that I am treating it the same as drywall and using the same tools it is quite easy!
What tools I was using before. I gues they are good for contured areas but can make the larger flat areas hard.
After it just was not looking the way i wanted I got out my drywall tools and things got MUCH easier. These are the tools I am using plus some 80 grit through 330 grit sand paper.
First coat and sand.
Second coat and sand.
Third coat and on,,,,,and on,,,,,and on.
And then you get to this point and you need to prim it to relief/block sand.
And thats it for today. :good_night:
BEAUTIFUL transformation! Been thinking tho, after she's all cleaned up, not so sure how the grey/off-white is gonna look :|
The whole car is getting done*flat white with original stripes.. Once its ready to shoot it goes for a fresh coat of primer then paint. For now the primer is only for level sanding with 300 grit and a wooden block. Once it is level sanded I will hit it with a thin coat I can sand off once it is ready to take in.
Ok, this is a major change but i can simply peel it off and do something else if it looks bad. Since the body work is almost done and I don't have time to role out a paint job I am going to coat my car in a type of rubber.
It is removable and will last up to a year if properly maintained. A friend has the spray gun so all I needed was three gallons of the dip at a cost of $180 and some masking stuff.
So just for fun I am doing a fire belly orange with black stripes. Thats right, dukes orange with black racing stripes. Should be bright. Lol. Then I will decide if I want to do something different the next time. More than likely.
I am sure it will look nice. Way nicer than it does now.
Awesome idea using the roller hockey wheels. She's looking good!
the old saying, anything worth doing is doing it right.
looks good man.
I should be ready to shoot it by next week when the dip arrives.
The last of the body work is almost done and I have to shoot a non porous paint that the dip will peel off of, probably some oil based rattle can and fade the edges. I doubt it will come off of a primed surface.
Holes patched in the back. I still need to block sand it but it is looking good.
The little bump in the hood was straightened with a hammer as much as possible and the rest is some filler.
Antenna hole still a question mark as I may just put tape over them and dip over the tape.
I ordered some body sealer to reseal the drip edge. It will be here this week.
Soooooo, the dip did not work so well with an older car and it did not last 24 hours on it. It was also very hard to remove all traces. Not recommended. Now I will just paint it slowly white with the original black stripes.
Ok the first Auto cross and I have a report on the suspension. It is in need of fine tuning but the performance was right where I was hoping. Unfortunately my performance was not. haha. I have a lot of learning in this short bastard. I was expecting it to be a little easier to handle but it is really throttle happy.
The track was not fast today and 55mph was the best I got. Several switch backs and not one real straight. It will run with the track cars once I get it figured out and add the extra boost. I was only 4 seconds off with another 40+ hp to add. O and I really need more practice. I almost suck. lol. I got spoiled with cars that made me a good driver haha. That 4 seconds was with me loosing it once. Others thought I would be able to shave at least 5 seconds once I learn to drive, and that was without the extra boost and 91 pump gas.
I need to work on scanning ahead and not looking right in front of me, also I need to work on my snap throttling, my foot loves it but my times dont. I am used to an AWD car that you can floor without consequences. Also I would describe my driving style as a "smash driver" and that is what I need work on the most, smooth instead of brutal, lol.
The 275# front springs while great for DD and rally are to soft for the weight up front on an auto cross. By maybe 25 lbs. Not much though. I think i can lift the front slightly and compensate for this. I will try 4mm lift. Like I say it only has slight under steer when hard turning and heavy braking at the slower speeds. I think I can use the throttle to correct for it, once i get used to it. I also need SS brake lines. The brakes are great but there is some slight sponginess when heavy braking. The tire size is good up front but I think something 1.5" wider in the back would be ideal. Also since I geared it for road use it is worthless for todays really close track. If I was to autox it regularly I would get a 6 speed. But I am using these events to get things adjusted. :) It is fun but to hard on the car. It is also to tempting to drift it. No need for any E-brake or clutching here, haha. Probably going to run the BOV plate for the extra boost and the 100 octane from laguna seca next time around..
I am now starting to compile the parts to do a Megasquirt standalone system with 440 cc injectors and Methane/watter injection. :D
I ordered a progressive injection system today that runs on the MAP sensor signal. It is fully adjustable and upgradable to a fail safe system with ECU interface in the future, however it is not really necessary to interface it unless you are going for big numbers so the stage 2 systems I got is more than adequate for under 350 bhp.
The standalone will be installed later and will cost almost $1000 just to buy the DIY components, then install and tuning so the ECU will take a while as I wont start it until i have it all. But for now I can get my octane rating up to 100+ from 91 with ease with the meth/watter injection. Since the factory ECU was JDM it was programed for 100 oct, plus the added benefits of heat absorption this will make the engine run WAY smoother under hard driving. I will wire it in with my air/water interceder, so when I turn on its pump the meth injection system will arm. :D :shooting: :dance:
Wow, great idea hill!!! I wanna see that setup when you're done, does it use the same connections as the map sensor or did you have to rig something?
I will simply splice into the MAP line at the ECU under the dash. Less wiring to deal with.
Here is how it works for those who have no idea.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/W3qD6pYTppI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
A quick question. If your engine is designed to handle almost anything thrown at it, then why not throw a 30 shot at it? So the stock engine can handle 20+ psi and I am keeping it around 14 psi max. Why not turn up the boost with some NOS?
Even if i never use it I ordered a NOS sniper single point wet system. If i am only shooting a 30 shot no need for direct port,,,,,,yet. The single point fogger system will be fine,,,,,, for now.
Hill, have you checked out this site http://kp61.net/ think it would benefit you. Keep the pics coming though on this site also its been a fun thread.
I am stupidstuff on other forums as most of what i do is stupid. lol,,,,, you guys know what I mean. I have my build there as well and that is where I got most of my education on these cars. That place moves really slowly as this car is kinda rare. Great source of info though. :D
I hope to have all the goodies by middle of next week. :dance:
While we wait here is a little info I found to read up on explaining why I am opting for both water/meth injection and Nitrous.
Optimize Your Nitrous System With A Water Methanol Injection System
Recently here at AIS, two of the most asked questions by inquiring customers has been "Can I use water methanol injection with my nitrous oxide? And if so, what sort of benefits will it offer me?" Because of these inquiries, we decided to dedicate an article specifically for it to help answer and explain some of these common questions we receive concerning the use of water methanol injection with nitrous.
Can I Use Water Methanol Injection With My Nitrous Oxide?
Absolutely. Nitrous oxide injection and water methanol injection are very compatible and safe to use together. In fact, water injection is quickly becoming the most effective, economical and efficient method of optimizing the performance of both wet and dry nitrous oxide systems. Furthermore, not only can water methanol injection enhance the power producing effects of your nitrous system, it can also significantly increase engine safety and reliability at the same.
...A well needed benefit for nitrous users as we all know all to well of the harsh conditions nitrous can put engines through.
So, what sort of benefits can a water methanol injection system offer? Before we getting in to this. To better help everyone understand, let's quickly go over the basic principles and explain how nitrous oxide injection works.
How Nitrous Oxide Injection Works
Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about 572 degrees F, nitrous oxide splits releasing the oxygen and nitrogen. The released oxygen helps create additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. While the released nitrogen acts to buffer and dampen the rapidly increasing cylinder pressure. Yet still, the use of nitrous oxide results in an accelerated combustion rate therefore requiring the need for reduced ignition timing. General rule of thumb is to reduce ignition timing 1 to 1-1/2 degrees per every 50 horsepower gain.
Nitrous also has a tremendous "inter cooling" effect, reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F on naturally aspirated applications. Lowering the air charge temperature coming into the intake allows for a denser air charge, therefore creating more horsepower. A general rule of thumb is for every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. For example: A 450 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 31.5 horsepower from the cooling affect alone.
Now that we have an accurate and basic understanding on how nitrous oxide works. Let begin talking about how water methanol injection can benefit a nitrous oxide system and the engine.
How Will Adding A Water Methanol Injection System To My Nitrous Oxide Injection Benefit Me?
It's no secret nitrous oxide offers big seat of the pants power with it's massive low rpm torque increases. However, do to it's instant "explosive" type power gains, one of the biggest problems associated with nitrous oxide is it's accelerated combustion rates. This leads to rapid cylinder pressure rise, resulting in substantial increased risk and occurrence of detonation. Additionally, rapid rises in cylinder pressure dramatically increase loads placed upon the internal engine components limiting their ability to make more horsepower reliably.
Follow along as we go over various benefits offered by combining a water methanol injection system with nitrous oxide injection.
Acts As An Effective Octane Enhancer - Octane is a very big and obvious factor in controlling and allowing how much nitrous, compression and timing can be safely mixed together at one time with out detonation occurring. This is particularly important when the use of higher octane fuels are not available or practical and regular premium pump gas must be used.
Together, water methanol injection serves to act as a substantial octane enhancer allowing 91-93 octane to perform like 110+ octane fuel. Methanol being a high octane fuel and burning as part of the combustion process. While water is not a burnable fuel, it is an extremely effective anti-detonant, effectively slowing down the burn rate of the fuel. Spray to much water and it will simply quench spark all together.
Slows Down & Stabilizes The Combustion Process - It's a known fact nitrous accelerates the combustion process as evident through the ignition timing retard required when using nitrous oxide. Performing much like a high octane fuel, water injection is an extremely effective octane enhancer. Thereby, slowing down the burn rate of the fuel and stabilizing the combustion process. Additionally, water also reduces combustion chamber temperatures. Thereby further stabilizing the combustion process by minimizing "hot spots" which can lead to detonation.
Slower Rise In Cylinder Pressure - By slowing down and stabilizing the combustion process. Water methanol injection is also able to help slow the rapidly rising cylinder pressure normally associated with nitrous oxide. This significantly helps reduce the risk and occurrence of detonation. Furthermore, slower rise in cylinder pressure reduces violent engine loads and improves the engines ability to make more horsepower reliably.
Reduces Combustion Chamber Temperatures - Knowing what we know about nitrous oxide, with the rapid release of oxygen and ability to burn more fuel, cylinder pressure increases dramatically, while also creating much more heat within the combustion chamber. With more heat in the cylinder and combustion chamber, the need arises to get rid of it before it starts to cause detonation of the fuel and/or before it heat soaks into all of the major components, like the heads, the block and the pistons.
An engine gets rid of its heat by transferring heat through the heads, block and pistons into the water jackets and, ultimately, into the radiator. Additionally, much of the heat is dispersed through the exhaust. Consequently, it makes logical sense by introducing something into the engine that will become part of the combustion process and can reduce heat. That "something" is water injected into an engine by an efficient water-injection unit.
Helps Cool & Protect The Tops Of The Pistons And Upper Ring - When it comes to pistons, heat is one the biggest threats. Piston manufactures are constantly working on improving piston coatings to prevent and help minimize the amount of heat transferred from the combustion chamber to the piston. Additionally, OEM manufactures of turbocharged engines are using oil squirters under the pistons of engines as another method to also reduce piston temperatures.
The use of a water methanol injection can also dramatically reduce combustion chamber temperatures as both water and methanol have a high latent heat of vaporization.
Definition of latent heat of vaporization: "latent heat" is the amount of energy in the form of heat released or absorbed by a substance during a phase.
A phase change in our case would be when water methanol changes from a liquid to a gas (steam) when it meets the heat with in the cylinder. As a result, were able to further reduce heat within the combustion chamber, in turn reduce the amount of heat transfer to the tops of the piston. Thereby cooling and protecting the top of the piston and upper ring.
Helps Eliminate And Minimize Detonation - While the released nitrogen acts to buffer and dampen the rapidly increasing cylinder pressure. Unfortunately, nitrous oxide users are still plagued with the constant threat of detonation. As a result of increased added octane, ability to slow down and stabilize the combustion process, slower rise in cylinder pressure and reduced combustion chamber temperatures, water methanol injection helps eliminate and minimize the occurrence of detonation.
Allows Users To Safely Run More Nitrous - As a result of increased added octane, slower rise in cylinder pressure, reduced combustion chamber temperatures. When water methanol injection is combined with nitrous oxide, more nitrous can safely be used, in turn more fuel can be burned, and more power is created more safely and reliably.
Allows The Use Of Little Or No Timing Retard - As a result of water injection effectiveness as an octane enhancer and it's ability to slow down and stabilize the combustion process. By adding a water methanol injection system, nitrous users are able to run little or no ignition timing retard even with large 250 shots.
Improves Engine Safety And Reliability - There is NO better product which can more effectively and economically increase octane, slow down and stabilize the combustion process, reduce cylinder pressure, reduce combustion chamber temperature and minimize and help eliminate detonation of your nitrous engine as a water methanol injection system.
Protect your motor and the investment you have in your motor while increasing horsepower all at the same time with a water methanol injection system.
So on the new ordered list i have, the nitrous system with purge kit, progressive water methane injection, And just ordered a set of 225/50 r13's for the rear with diamond racing 13x8 wheels. Also a set of flares.
I will use snaps for the flares so they can be removed for the normal daily driving tires. Also I aim to address the heavy front end by lowering the rear with the smaller diameter tires. This will also change the ratio on the ground as the tire size difference will be close to 33mm smaller.
The wheel and tires wont be here and installable until about the first of setp as the wheels wont arrive until then.
Then I plan to learn to drive. :tard: In a 1800 lb car that can now run 11s.
water/methane injection system with trunk mount tank and a small tank incase the larger one wont mount and hide. The pump is huge, haha
Only waiting on the tires, wheels and flares
Looking good. Again sorry to hear about the bad but keep up with the good. I really hate NOS but at least you have the water meth injection to keep from melting the pistons.
Nitrous is only bad if the pistons are not made for it, and you get detonations or run lean. These pistons are made same as the new ones for nitrous application. Also the power maximum for the block is somewhere around 400 hp. I wont go over 320. Also i have a gauge that tells me the fuel air mixture so I will know it if is running lean or rich, and I can adjust the fuel jet accordingly. As for detonations, well it is a knock sensor engine and will adjust the timing if it detects knock. However that is what the water meth is for, to prevent knock and allow the computer to take advantage of its 100 octane programming. :D
So with it being a sleeper,,,,,,,,why not nitrous? Since there was not a answer having to do with engine reliability I went and did it. Now my concern is the transmission and rear end. I am on there absolute limit with these upgrades.
if you end up on the track, please post a video,
this looks like this project ended up working out ok, even with the bad, auto shop problems,
hope things work out awsome,
waiting for finish, :D:D:D yippy awsome.
O ****! Together they will combine for around 20 inches of rubber on the ground in the rear.