Reviving an Emag.
So my Emag has been down for a few months, sitting in my Arizona garage.
I gas it up and it vents out the back of the valve and down the barrel. It has the standard Emaxx valve, level 10 and a yellow LED display.Thats about it when it comes to fancy stuff.
Where should I start? I rarely take apart my mag stuff so it's a new adventure each time I open one up.
Do a valve disassembly and reassembly, replacing any o-rings that have gone bad (nicked, dried out, cracked, gone to ooze, whatever) and then if you still get venting out the back, turn down the velocity until it stops. Then chrono and see where you're at. From that point, it may be fixed or maybe not, but you won't know what else needs to be done until that's all been done.
And be sure to update the thread with what you have done and noticed until fixed. Justus just summarized everything you should do pretty well.
Well I've never taken the valve apart. Anything I should know/watch out for?
I'm sure I have part of a rebuild kit around here somewhere.
And thank you, I'll give it a go when the garage is a little more bearable to be in.
So...I said screw it, my kitchen table became my new bench.
Threw a towel down viola!
Disassembled the gun down to reg, tube and bolt. Replaced an o-ring that had a neat cut on it, along the "perimeter" if that makes sense. Tossed some oil on there.
No more leak out the back.
However, leak down the front is very apparent.
In Mechanical mode, if I hold the trigger down, the air flow stops.
In Emode, it just leaks either way.
I forget, is there supposed to be an o-ring between the bolt and the tube?
Just found a crumpled note in my junk bit-o-pieces box that says "Thanks!" Me thinks my gun was fussed with by a friend.
The level 10 probably just needs to be tuned. Remove the shims and install the largest carrier size that doesn't produce a leak.
pulled out the one shim that was in the power tube. I'm trying to remember if that little brass piece in there is critical for barrel leaking.
I appreciate your guys patience with this, it's been a VERY long time since I've opened it up.
Carrier is the little brass doodad in the power tube? How do I get it in and out? How do I determine which is the largest? I see the series of rings on them.
I put in a 2nd shim, it cycles completely not but if I try to do anything rapid it can't cycle and it still leaks.
Yep. Dental pic works well. Dots are 1/2, lines are whole. So a dot with no line would be .5. A line would be 1. A dot and a line would be 1.5 etc.
Originally Posted by PyroFiend
if you don't have a dental pick, you can actually use the field strip screw. that is how Tuna removes the carrier(seen him do it to countless mags that needed L10 adjustments at this year's Tunaball 7), so if he does it, so can you.
While I'm no Tunaman, I'll have to see what I can scrounge up. I can't really damage anything with the field strip screw right?
Does it matter which end of carrier is which way?
Remove the shims. Don't install them at all. They can cause leaking out the front because they push the carrier and oring farther into the powertube which exposes the vent hole in the bolt stem.
The field strip screw is just for holding some pressure against the side of the oring so you can pull the carrier out. The amount of required force is minimal so it won't hurt the oring.
The carrier is oriented so that the oring is facing the back of the valve.
Here is a tuning guide for your level 10:
The carriers are sized using lines and dots. Each line represents a 1 and a series of dots represents 0.5. Eg; 2 lines and dots equals size 2.5. Carriers range from size 0 to 3.5 but most people only have from 0 to 2.5 and most new kits have even less.
When tuning your level 10, remove all the shims from the powertube before starting. They don't affect the operation but they can cause false leaks which cause you to use a carrier size that is too tight. Don't put them back when you are done. You shouldn't ever need them.
For carrier sizing:
Find the carrier size that causes the installed oring to fit freely over the bolt stem. The carrier should sit on the bolt stem without moving if the bolt is held in a vertical position. If you tap the valve on a hard surface, the carrier should be loose enough to allow the bolt to move. If you have to force the carrier onto the bolt stem with any force at all, then it is too tight. Install the bolt and valve into the gun. When aired up there should be no leaking. If it leaks, take the carrier out and replace it with the next smaller size. Always use the same white carrier oring in each carrier that you use. It is the orings that you are adjusting. Try it again. You want to use the largest carrier size that does not produce a leak.
Any time that the gun fires and does not reset or short strokes and does not reset, or just chuffs and does not reset, the problem is most likely a carrier that is too tight. Installing shims will not help. Shims only help if the bolt moves, hits an object but does not vent any air, and then cannot reset because the chamber is still fully charged. Most of the time the bolt always moves far enough to expose the vent hole, get rid of excess air, and then reset.
For spring adjustment:
You want to use the bolt spring that allows you to shoot about 20fps above the lowest velocity that the gun will cycle at. So, if you want to use the gun at 280fps, then your desired lower limit of operation is 260fps. Insert your long bolt spring. Turn the velocity adjuster down before you air up the valve. Then gradually turn up the velocity until the gun will cycle. This is your lower velocity. Measure it. If it is above 265fps, then you will need a shorter spring or you will need to clip the one you have (unless you have red one. They are usually in the correct range). If you clip a spring, only clip half a coil at a time and then try it using the same procedure of starting with a low velocity setting. Make sure you put the cut end of the spring towards the bolt. If you have the short spring installed, and the lower range is 30fps below the desired shooting velocity, I wouldn't worry about using a stiffer spring and would just go with the short bolt spring. If it was much lower than that, I would definitely clip a long spring to get closer to the desired range.
Check out the E-mag Disassembly videos that AGD made years ago. It goes step by step how to tear down an e-mag.
I just do the whole hold the trigger so it splits the front and back half. :)
SUCCESS! Sort of.
Took a while but I got it going. I wish I had some paint and a chrono to really test it, glad I had a full scuba tank to gas up on. Looks like I may have to go up to a field on Saturday. I have 17 other carriers, couple with 2 lines on them. If anybody needs one, please don't hesitate to ask.
Thank you guys so much for your help, this is why I love paintball. Its been ages since I took anything apart.
Next project is an RT with a Zgrip that's been sitting for years. Maybe that'll be next weeks adventure.
I have another Zgrip too, wouldn't mind putting another RTZ together.
Thanks again, if any of you are ever in AZ, let me know.
Edit: And now I can't find the damn autococker detents for it!