but would like to offer a rail to people who would like an am/mm sear style.
otherwise I would shelf the Am/mm style sear rails.
I guess I just dont understand why the slot wasnt narrower to accomplish the same effect.
Im really excited to see this progressing how quickly it is.
The zig is .08'' off of the centerline ( i forgot to annotate that.. )
[QUOTE=DarkApollo;2845160]I guess I just dont understand why the slot wasnt narrower to accomplish the same effect.
here is a link with some explanation about tha zig zag sear slot:
how about 03 AKA eyecovers?
and I cant see what is being annotated, it looks like the annotations are on the bottom of the rail.
ill just go back to my drawings and annotate it.
thankyou for the help,
looks like this wont be a fast project.
lol I guess there is this thing called zoom.
on my browser, :D and it was down to 50%
I see the dimensions they have been added to my drawing,
now all I need to do is find out where to put the pin for the am/mm type sears.
thanks again for the help guys.
ill try to print some rails up this weekend.
figured out where everything goes.
just needed to be patient.
Well if you need any more measurements, I have the rail and ULE body in CAD.. I got bored at work.......
print of am/mm long rail in progress.
wish me luck.
I really cant wait for these.. I want to build a super light mag with the new M86 frame.
so of course the damn gun wont shoot.
here are the videos.
come to find out after attaching the body, frame,valve to a slug rail. come to find out im low on air. ef me.
videos are funny, I say "it will shoot" then it doesn't.
but here are the videos just to give you an idea.
I think im going to take a bansaw to the back end of this rail. since the z-lock channel in the rail dosnt do anything.
how do I know this you say. went to turn the valve and the z-lock pin turned through the rail.
so ill get to cutting the back of this rail off,
then ill set up a second rail to be printed solid.
since this rail only has 20% infill to save time and filament.
***edit: lightning here so no printing till that's passed.
Could you maybe build in a stiffing rod?
Sent you a PM with the idea that I had.
sorry been out for a second doing some prototype work for a friend.
ill be back on my stuff soon.
When you get a free moment PM me, I know something rather simple you could make and sell a bunch of to people in my line of work. It would not require much drawing to make and specs do not have to be perfect. As it would be a clamping design. I can put it on my powder gun and put it through the paces for you. I could guarantee you sales on it
filament ran out come to find out the part that actually holds the battery is too big.:D
and I think the front round is off.
making the compartment smaller will allow the dovetail to be the right size. woop for my printer.
apparently I cant pull dimensions worth crap.
my screw holes are all off. have no idea of a better way to get where they are positioned.
need some moreadjustment on the pack. im thinking of combining the bottom with the middle.
great thing about learning is you definitely don't stop
One trick on hole spacing is to measure them 3 or 4 different ways then compare results. I'm overly careful amount reverse engineering parts, because it sucks making a part a dozen times to get it right. Measure, measure, measure, measure again, then one more time to be sure, when your done with all of that, check it again, especially if you generally screw it up (lol) ;)
Don't forget to make sure you calipers are set to zero, plus it wouldn't hurt to check them on a gauge block. You'll pick up tricks as you advance, I'll give you a clue, you can use software to check your drawing against the actual part. :p