That's awesome! I didn't even think of the trigger rod length. Good job, my man!
That's awesome! I didn't even think of the trigger rod length. Good job, my man!
Ya, from what I can see, because the old bolt is worn, the sear was releasing it. Now with the new level 10 bolt, it must have been just barely catching it, and sometimes allowing the bolt to fire. By lengthening the rod, its forcing the sear down lower, hence allowing the bolt to fire.
All I care is this darned thing fires!
I just ordered my X valve and ULE Trigger kit.. right now i have to put the original parts back into the classic valve to ship it out... i dont know what to do beacuse i had level 10 in it.. what do i put back into the classic valve??
dont you just put the stock parts/bolt back into it?
thats the problem.. idk what the stock parts were except for the bolt and spring.. see i didnt do the level 10 install so idk what he took out..
what parts did he give you back? i got my gun w/ the xvalve, so i dont know too much about what came stock in the power tube, but looking at the diagram at http://www.airgun.com/downloads/valveexplodedview.pdf it looks like you'll need a power tube spacer and a different power tube tip. so you'll have to take the carrier that is in your power tube and the power tube tip off, and replace them with the stock parts. you probably could send your valve with the level 10 to agd, but i doubt that youd want to do that.
ok i put the stock thingy back intot he valve where the level 10 would go and i put the stock tip thingy on and the bolt and spring.. i cant test it out though. i have no air.. o well :eek:
Ok now that im going to get my X valve soon.. i have to do my level 10 on my own.. Sooo what are the steps i follow.
the level 10 comes with a cd that will tell you everything you need to know about installing and tuning it. just read through it and you'll be fine. the basic idea is that you just install the middle size carrier and then change the size of it up or down based on if it leaks or if it provides too much friction.
i just bought an x valve for my minimag my problem is i cant seem to get it to quit leaking down the barrel a bit. if i barely touch the trigger it stops. i have gotten it to stop for a bit then it starts im down to the smallest carrier with 1 shim and it still leaks with 2,3,4, or 0 shims still leaks a bit. any sugestions.
Check your on/off and make sure it's in properly.
Also, are you using the same o-ring in each carrier or are you using a different one in each?
on/off looks fine same oring in each. the on/off is to short for my hyperframe it wont even connect with sear. but in standard frame it shots but leaks a very little bit
got it working with smallest carrier and 1 shim. now it wont leak down the barrell also is using the red spring.
OK I just istalled a ULE and lvl 10 on my teammates mag. I have the lvl 10 set up and working good, but every once in a while the trigger does not reset. I degas it then add some oil and it will fire for a few hundred then stop again.
Also it does not want to stop venting out from the back. Its running around 280 and if I lower it anymore it will not fire.
I am using a lvl 10 with 3 shims and the small spring. I couldn't get velocity high enough with the larger spring. It was working perfect utill about 500 rounds went through it. Now it leaks, it stops though if i push the bolt back with my finger. What should I do to get it working better.
It's just getting broken in so you need to move down one carrier size.
Originally Posted by fbpb36
I think this post is gonna help me out. I can turn up my velocity just enough to get my gun to fire and it begins to vent. Even with smallest spring I can't fire consistently without venting. I'm going to order my replacement Regulator Piston Assembly and give it a shot. Plazmic, is this true for all Classic Automag Reg's? I had this problem with my vintage 68, but I have two other "Classic" mags I can try. You could save me some time and perhaps some money if you can confirm one way or the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by Plazmic
As far as I know this is the case with all A.I.R. valves. If you want to be sure about it, though, you should just call up AGD and ask them. They'll give you an absolute answer. In my experience, though, all of the classic valves have a vent pressure that is too low and will generally need the new reg piston to run the Level 10 well. It's worth the investment.Quote:
Originally Posted by SwinGenX
Office Telephone: (847) 520-7507
Tech Support Telephone: (847) 520-7225
I recently bought a LvL 10 but I don't think it came with a backing washer, or at least I can't make it out from the other ones (They all fit carriers :confused: Anyway, are they imperative or can I go ahead and just install the carrier and go on with installment? Or do you absolutely need a backing washer back there. Thanks in advance.
You do need that backing washer. It is plastic rather than rubber, though. Mine was not the same color as in the diagram, if that helps you at all.
Damn, he didn't give me anything plastic. What can I do about this? If I bring it to a proshop do you think they will have some or anything :confused:
Heres the thread...this is what I bought, and this pic is exactly what I have. Can someone point out which one is the backing washer for me? Or if there is one?
Is that white ring in the center of the 3 not different than the others? The pic is too small for me to be sure, but that looks like my backing washer. My backer is white like that.
Here's the link to where you can buy a new one from AGD. Mine looks like this one, but it's white instead of black.
Level 10 Backing Washer
They are all the same size, so the whole idea of the backing washer not letting the other ones falling into the air chamber wouldn't work if that was the case, cause it's the same size. But it's only .50, I'll just be on the safe side and pick one of those up. Thanks for the help.
If those are all the same size then, yeah, he stiffed you the washer. It does not look like the others up close. It's plastic and flat.
Glad I could help!
I have an older RT with the level 10 kit in. I have a slight problem with the paitballs not feeding into the breach all the time. I have no leaks and the gun shoots great when the balls feed. You have to manually push the paint through the power feed. Also the gun goes through the air pretty fast. Any help would be appreciated. Anybody please respond!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
When I'm installing, it seems that the power tube tip won't really go in all the way (inside the power tube) but I figured what the heck and slapped on the superbolt, well it won't close all the way. So something won't go all the way in. I think it's the carrier but I can't tell.
I had that same problem. I took a new pencil with a flat, clean eraser, and pushed it down. It was just stuck or something.
After sifting though all the posts I still didn't find the exact help I was looking for. So I bought this LvL 10 bolt for my classic rt. It has the (.5/.316) carrier in it. The o-ring is well broke in now. The next size carrier (1/.318) will have a slight leak. I can do 3 shimes. The 4th will leak. The longest spring with the kit shots at 299fps plus. So I dropped to the middle spring that was supplied with the kit. Now it is shoooting reliably at 280/290fps. Everything is ok, but it still hits with some force. I did the dollar test like in the video and it will shove it right into the barrel pretty hard! :eek: So I tried putting a smaller carrier (0/.314)w/ the broke in o-ring in to put more drag on the bolt. I had to turn the velocity nut up a bit to compensate with no luck with the buck test. I've replaced the regulator piston w/the springs, the on/off valve pin and the o-rings in the valve thus far. Now if the field gets some less fragile paint like they say, it will most likely be fine. Before the level 10 a couple hundred breaks out of a case and now under a hundred. Still not the best, but I'm getting there. Any suggestions to improve this situation is appreciated. Thanks :)