Tuning Lvl 10 -- Full Auto???
Here is an issue my buddy and I are having with his RT Pro ULE. He was taking it apart to try to re-tune the Lvl 10.
No shims were added/removed (only 1 in there); he was going to put a lighter spring in but decided against it.
When he reassembled the marker (with no changes having been made) and gassed it up, it now goes full-auto with only a slight touch of the trigger. We can't figure out why it's RTing constantly.
We tried it with 2 shims but the same effect is present. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this one guys?
carrier stuck in power tube
I've tried everything I can think of to get the carrier to come out. Any tips here?
How to find the sweet spot.
sweet tip, thanks!
Originally Posted by Ando
My setup right now has intelliframe, classic rail, classic sear, ule body, xvalve, ult kit, centerflag 4500 / 68 set to 1200 psi output.
I have 2.0 carrier and 2 level 10 shims installed at this point, with the gold spring. I don't have a chrono so I have no idea what velocity it's hitting right now.
I have 5 shims in my ULT. If I install a 6th shim on the ult, a slight leak starts, and firing doesn't make it go away. I'm wondering since I can't get the gun to go full auto if I'm doing something wrong in tuning my ULT. I have oiled the heck out of everything using Tri-Flow.
Also, does "dry firing" use way more air than when there is paint in the gun? The reason I ask is that while trying to tune my trigger, the gun eats air like crazy.
Anyway, my main question is, can somebody explain the technique of physically finding the sweet spot to get reactivity?