TastePAINt88, dry firing? bad paint to barrel match? and are you sure it's not leaking somewhere?
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TastePAINt88, dry firing? bad paint to barrel match? and are you sure it's not leaking somewhere?
using the Strongest Spring makes your effciency go down. if you use one of the other springs is should get better effciency.
Chuck, sure on the leaks, I gassed it and threw it in a bucket of water to check for air bubbles, no airbubbles at all. Does dry firing mean anything? Ive done a mix of paint and dry firing and getting bad, checking the new ULT (which works fine) out when I can spare the paint but moneys tight so i dont have cases to run throuhg, uses PMI Premiums with a SP Proggressive barrel.
BD: Ill try weaker spring, anything for better gas. If i change the spring, should I change anything else? Or Should i take that to myself and evaluate it when I change it?
Thanks.
Dry firing usually uses more air that's why I asked. It sounds like you've got a good grasp on the LX so if something comes up w/ dropping down a spring size you'll be able to figure it out;) :)
I'm using the small carrier, because if I try to bump up to a larger one, it leaks. I wouldn't needlessly use the small carrier. I understand how it works.
I'm gonna go through it with a fine toothed comb, but right now, I'm not real happy with it's performance. the gun didn't really chop that much paint any way, and seems like it shot better before.
Thanks chuck, Ill change the spring and let the thread know whats happening. Thanks!
I just installed my level 10 and it dry fires fine. i started shooting paint and after about 10 shots i started getting shootdown. the tank im using is about 1/8 full. So im not sure if that would be enough or not. So can you tell me if its because i dont have enough air in the tank or because its the level 10. thanks
Hello all,
I got a new Custom ULE RT with level 10 and ULT factory tuned and installed. The tech at my local field said I should change to the red spring. Said it would be easier on paint. Said all I would have to do would be turn up the velocity a little and I would be ready to go. Is that correct?
The reason I ask is, I read on this site somewhere that you should break springs in by firing the gun a couple hundred times after they are installed. Is that true.
I am playing in a 3 man tourney tomorrow and it is going to be pretty cold, around 33 degrees (I know that's not cold to you Yankees, but down here that is cold) at start time. I am worried about the effect the cold will have on the paint so I want to do anything I can to help.
Thanks,
Bryan
I was having trouble with my classic RT before buying the LX. It had a starvation problem and the bolt would stick. After checking all the orings and boltspring and stuff, some people here on AO and me came to the conclusion that I needed a bigger size spacer. Some also said to just get the LX to solve all problems sinse it would replace the spacer and some orings with one of its carriers in the kit.
I figured instead of buying the spacer kit + shipping, I could spend that $20 towards the LX kit. So I did, I recently got it and installed it first with the 2ring carrier,2washers and the largest spring.
The result I got was it would cock but when I pulled the trigger it would not fire at all. I turned up the velocity and it would leak from the back of the gun. The second step I tryed was the medium spring and what happend was the same thing. With the shortest spring it would fire but leak down the barral and a bit out the back still. I tryed different higher and smaller size carriers but it would just cause the leaking to be worse. Plus with the smallest bolt I could only fire so many times before having it starv for air and the bolt get stuck again.
I then seeked for help and found that I need a new regulator piston. But im wondering is this only going to fix the leak from out the back and not the air starvation problem?
What exactly is wrong? Im getting told to get this and that and spending a lot trying to fix this gun. Its not so much that I dont want to fix it but that I already used to have a working classic RT but it got stolen. Please help, I just want this thing working.
Thanks
ok its been a while since i last played but i also wanna get this lvl 10 issue worked out...had it installed and setup perfectly worked for quite a while.. then it took i direct hit, and i mean a direct hit my brother shoot a paintball all the way down a 14 inch boomstick striking the bolt with close to all its force.. gun stops working.. so i retuned it and got it working with just alittle more striking force than before.. but now the bolt strikes aftermarket barrels and with my minimag barrel it over hangs and causes jams.. i mean overhangs as in the bolt is not returning completly and and isnt leaving enough room for a paintball if it is rolled in on the fat part of the seem to feed properly.. any ideas would be great in the mean time i will just use it stock it still rips and only breaks one in like 2k...also when my lvl 10 did work it had horrible velocity consistancy like +/- 10-15fps now it is +/- 2-3fps..oh yeah forgot the gun is an 03 classic
i feel like a newbie again :(
alright i have tuned a lvl 10 twice already, and they came out nicely
today 8 months after the last time i ever tuned a lvl 10 i had LOTS of trouble
my 2 friends who just got their lvl 10s came over and asked me to tune it, they bring over a scuba and everything
i sit down for like 1 frustrating hour trying to tune the first RT valve, and no matter what it wont stop at the target, it crunchs everything in its path
this is my exact prodcedure, please do correct me if im wrong, i didnt have directions, i went w/ my 8 month old memory
-carrier 2, 2 shims, mid spring, oiled oring
-shot 2-300 shots
-no leaks, went down tighter carrier
-1.5 carrier, still chopping and crunching
-went through the same steps till reached carrier 0
-w/ carrier 0 it was still crunching on everything
what am i doing wrong...?
if its not leaking dont go down a carrier yet. Try using the small spring and check velocity...my bet is your way too high.
i did a chrono guess by shooting a ball
if its not leaking, but it chops, i should still go down a carrier, the tighter the carrier the less likely it would chop, but in this case, seems to make no difference
CRY OUT FOR DONATIONS : can someone please send me some free lvl 10 orings (the ones that need to be broken in) please please thanks!
tighter carriers make the bolt hit harder not softer, use the biggest one that doesnt leak people!
theres that newbie feeling again :mad:
haha thanks man! god i feel like a dumbass
Ya i bought my LVL10 bout a month ago and i've been trying to tune it and i've gone down to the carrer and get enough shims till it will stop leaking. but now i chop balls i dunno whats wrong
hey everyone ive already posted my problem on here and got no reply so if someone could help me it was the last post on pg 27 thanks
Okay, I thought I had this level 10 working, but when I pull the trigger all I get is a chuff. I've tried different springs and it doesn't seem to make a difference. With the weakest spring the bolt moves but it won't fire a ball 10 feet. I followed the instructions exactly and have tried with 0 - 5 shims with no difference. If I put my old bolt back on it fires fine.
Can anyone give me an idea what's going on here?
go to a bigger carrier. and start with no shims then work up. but first go to a bigger carrier.
I went to a bigger carrier and it leaked like crazy down the barrel so I went back to the one I had. I'm an a 2.5, now. The 3 doesn't work. I tried it with no shims and worked my way up to 5 and none of them made any difference.
Plazmic, now that you have the right carrier have you tried the middle spring? I'd try that and/or turning up your velocity.
Yeah, I've tried all three springs and the one from my old bolt, too. I get the same results from all three. I really thought it was my regulator or valve, so I put my old bolt on to test it. The old bolt worked great! All I can think is that, since the springs all do the same thing, it bust be a carrier issue.
I even put on a different trigger frame to see if that made a difference! It didn't.
I think I'm going to take the whole thing apart and start from scratch, making sure I do every little thing exactly right.
Anyone got any words of encouragement? I'm getting really frustrated here.
Okay, I pulled everything apart and started over. I put a different o-ring in the 2 carrier this time. I'm at two shims and the weakest spring. It's firing consistantly, now, but I can't go up a spring. If I use any other spring it won't fire. I haven't chrono-ed it, yet, but if it comes out at 250 or something, how will I get my speeds back up if I can't go to another spring?
Is it close to venting out the back now? If not you will probably be fine.Quote:
Originally posted by Plazmic
I haven't chrono-ed it, yet, but if it comes out at 250 or something, how will I get my speeds back up if I can't go to another spring?
It's about 1 turn from venting. How much difference in FPS velocity do you usually get in one turn on a 68 Classic?
side note: I gotta say, I'm VERY happy with the performance of my new J&J Ceramic! I ran my test shots through two different barrels and the Ceramic REALLY shoots straight! I am going to OWN in my next game!
i got to about page 3 of this thread, didnt find my prob, got lazy, so im posting it. Please read and help, mabey Tom?
ok, me and my friend both got our X-valves at the same time, we oiled em up, put em in and adjusted till they fired, but after a shot or two, the bolt seems to not fully extend and makes an air puffing sound. It seems like im running on co2 or something becuase i can shoot like 1 shot per second or two normally, but any faster and the bolt seems as if it needs time to recharge, so if i try to fire more than 1 ball per second it's like the valve is out of breath,( if i put my ear to the vavle i can hear it recharge - sounds like air if filling the valve - "shuuuuuuch") im using a 68 3000 PMI tank, fairly new, the output says 850 on the website. im using a ULT trigegr too. different springs only made it stick, i have tried various carriers and shims, and messed with the velocity... and i think all that stuff is set right, i watched the quick intall vid for the L10 help ?
P.S. another wierd problem occasionally - my bolt would get stuck in my barrel, not "bolt stick" from a spring, but it would actually stop inside my barrel and i had to get it unjammed using a stiff sqeegy, it was quite hard. Trying to pull my barrel out would only stretch the spring on the bolt. mabey bore size? (14' dye Xcel) im getting a 10' ultralight soon.
i'd think if all level 10's were the same, or required the same set-up of carriers and such that they should be pre-tuned, but im guessing they are all slightly different.
I just ordered the new RT ULE custom. Are the level ten and ule trigger kit setup from the factory or will i have to dink around a bit?
sry if this has already been answered but anyway, i just got my lvl 10 and installed it on my classic rt. it keeps leaking down the barrel and out the back of the valve, ive tried most of the carriers and it is still leaking. i also have a agd flatline reg. on my nitro tank and i am about to clean that out (have not cleaned it before). would the reg. be contributing to the leak? would it stop the leak if i cleaned out the reg? or is it just the lvl 10?
if its laaking down the barrel then you have to go to a smaller carrier. and if its leaking out where you turn the velovity up or down then turn you velocity down. my x-valve leaked out the back and i tuned the velocity down and it was all better. also use alot of oil on the carrier o-ring, lube it up when ever you have a chance.
My cousin has Lvl. 10 X-valve and it is sticking forward when he raps off shot on a double finger I-frame and it didnt when he used the stock single trigger frame anyone know anything about how to solve this problem?
make sure all the screws are tight and go to the largest carrier that doesent leak. change the carrier to a bigger one. that should fix the problem.
Okay, I finally got a chance to really rip some balls with my 68 and the new lvl 10, but I was breaking balls like crazy! I'm not sure if that was maybe crappy balls and a tight J&J Ceramic barrel, so I'm going to let that go until I play again. The thing that worries me, though, is that I went through a 68/3000 air tank in about 700 shots. Does that sound right?
yea that sounds good. i get about 700-800 on my x-vavled mag with a 88 3000. and about 500 on my 48 3000.
Holy Crap! I get almost 1500 from this same bottle on my Piranha! I tell ya...that's a bummer.
but im glad i got 2 tanks and a friend with a fill station:D
Hi
I have a retro valve and I am setting up my level 10, I have been through the detailed setup insturctions without result.
With the smallest carrier and 2 shims it was leaking down the barrel.
The smallest carrier is the only one that feels snug, the others are loose.
I have the medium spring.
My input pressure is 800psi (air system vents above that)
and my velocity adjuster is as high as that goes before it starts venting
So I took out the shims, now it wont fire at all.
With one shim, it doesnt fire at all.
So I put two shims in, and it leaks down the barell again.
I dont know what else I can change.
Can someone help?
Use one shim, then use the largest carrier that wont make it leak down the barrel, and use the smallest spring. Make sure that the bolt can move freely in the body.
The only carrier I can use is the smallest one, all the others leak.
Ill try with one shim and the small spring thanks.
By small spring you mean the stock non lvlx spring?
Yes, thats correct. What spring are you using now? BTW, make sure the powertube is lubed.