Originally Posted by GordDesigns
Originally Posted by GordDesigns
There isn't. You get 9v but more capacity.Quote:
Originally Posted by buzzboy
i was wondering...is the powerfeed body the kind where the feed tube runs across the body???
i have the kind where it runs across the body and was wondering if i could hook the warp feed up to it?
you can hook a warp to just about any feed. On a powerfeed right(the hopper is on the right side) you can hook it straight down to the warp with the long PF plug(if you are right handed). Or if you have a Powerfeed left hopper you use the 90* adapter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Oddball91
Ok, I'm getting a Warp for my Tippman C98 soon and I was told that I need an adapter for this setup to function correctly. I feel a little odd talking about Tippman here, but it's all I can afford at the moment. So my question is two fold: what is this adapter that I am in need of, and is there anything else extra that I need to make this setup function?
I'm reallly not sure. I know that you have to have a grip adapter to use a warp on an a5 but.....Does the 98 have two screws that hold the asa on. If it does have these two screws one in front of the other then the warp will work fine. If it slips into the grip like on an a5 then you need to get an adapter from tippmann.
Regular ASA-Will work fine
Nonregular ASA-Need some sort of adapter
My Reloader doesn't seem to fit into the top of my warp feed......
Is there any trick or do I need to get the sand paper out?
Nevermind. I just needed to use a little elbow grease.
Made it through the first 10 pages of this thread and decided to just post my question. Don't kill me. I got the bright idea to link in another set of wires to run to my warp. (I already had the intelli running to my revy). I just spliced them right and and did the proper set up. Now both run constantly instead of on the trigger pull. Is this due to faulty wiring or is it due to the set up?
Thanks for your help. Post here, email me (firstname.lastname@example.org) or I'm on AIM (TrixNStyx).
I'm thinking faulty wiring. I used the correct phone plug... It's a mono plug with the same spec number from the guide.
Since I've been working on the above situation, I have come to a conclusion. I have figured you cannot run these simultaneously, all it acchomplishes is making both run continuosly. However if you so choose (or have managed to already install the parts) You can run one or the other.
In order to run just the warp: simply unplug your connector to the Loader.
In order to run just the loader: You cannot just simply unplug the warp as the circuit is still completed (or so it would seem). So you'll need a connector in between the two in order to break the circuit.
Just throwing in a few cents into the mix. Learn from my "mistakes".
Seeing as I have a choice. What do most people prefer? I-frame to warp? or I-frame to Hopper?
I vote I-frame to warpQuote:
Originally Posted by SGranier
hi people heres my finnished modded warp it has
.12 volt battrey pack (is made buy 10 1/3 size AAA 480mah rechargabel batteries total 12 volts (
.led low battrey warning light green is all good changes to red when close to flate
.12 volt intelli feed to hopper (ricochet apache)hopper and warp only spin when trigger is pulled
.regulated 9 volt feed to power ion(wireing harness made that has the intelli feed wiries and power wires to go to gun)
. on off switch on top of the conpartmen that has the board because i needed the DPDT switch cause when i switch it off it hooks the battery up to the on board chargeing socket
tryed to upload pics but wont do it sorry
Who did the led mod for you? or did you do it yourself? I like that mod.Quote:
Originally Posted by eddahenry
Is it possible to make an inteliframe with an Autococker Hinge trigger, like put a switch under the sear or behind the triger ?
Hello all. I've read mostly through this thread and noticed a few problems that I experienced and fixed but either haven't been addressed in one place or not addressed at all. I've warped my Autococker Trilogy Competition with an AGD warp so here's my two cents.
1st problem: won't sense gun firing
SOLUTION: activate vibration sensor by placing jumper only on the bottom prongs of the switch to the right of the circuit board
2nd problem: vibration sensor works but cannot adjust sensitivity
SOLUTION 1: if it's a new warp break in the motor by running the warp continuously until it drains a fresh battery.
SOLUTION 2: I had a used warp and figured the problem was the blue potentiameter so I replaced it with a 10kohm potentiameter and it now works like a charm.
General problem: mounting a warp on a vert feed cocker
SOLUTION: either make an adaptor yourself with a dremel and any appropriate diameter plastic tube from a hardware store or purchase the q-loader's elbow. Mine shipped off of ebay with that elbow and fit my feed neck perfectly.
I hope this helps some people and in return I have my own question:
Considering only balls already in the warp feed drive balls up the feed tube, when the gun is sideways and a revy doesn't feed balls about how many shots do people usually get before the warp must be refilled? Thank you.
someone probably alread asked this so I feel stupid, but can you buy an on/off for the warp?
You can but the official ones are expensive and unless you send it in for modification you be soldering it in anyway. Just make a trip to Radio Shack (now called The Source where I'm at) and get a basic toggle switch.
Split one of wires to the battery connection thing. Strip the wire ends and solder the toggle swicth between them. Have a hole drilled for the toggle switch to fit snugly in and that should do it.
PS. Should probably dissemble the warp for this cause soldering irons melt plastic rather quickly.
PLEASE HELP ME! my warp is over feeding and balls are jamming in my feedneck! WHAT DO I DO. The warp pushes them too hard, how do I adjust that? :confused: :confused: :confused:
Was showing off my warped mag to a friend who is just starting to get into paintball today. He loved it but asked me a question I wasn't sure I could answer. For some reason he wants to know if a warp feed could push paintballs through 4 feet of hose :tard:
anyway, I told him I think it could, but I figured I would check here first. Sorry if this kind of question has already been asked. I checked through this thread for a question similiar, but admittedly, I started rushing towards the end.
Any help would be much appreciated!
i think we decided that it couldn't.
At various times an array of warps was considered, say two or three in a row. That might be powerful enough, though you might start crushing balls.
thanks, any idea what the longest one could feed would be?
sorry for the noob questions
I think you meen how long can it feed for? until it runs out of batteries.Quote:
Originally Posted by EPIC_Vader
i think he meant feed in the tube
i would say 12 vlt mod maybe 3.5 feet ;)
thats about what i got, any longer and you gotta do some more upgrades :ninja:
as for as longevity of batteries...2-3 days of heavy play
local pb shop is closing they have a brand new warp how much should i offer?
can anyone tell me if you absolutely NEED an intelliframe? (i want to warp my mag but i dont want to spend $100 on a frame)
will it work on a carbon fiber or stock frame?
warp wil work on ANY gun/frame
if you want to intellifeed it you need a y-grip, inteeliframe, or rpg chimera
i think those are the only ones with microswitch mounts.
but you can always just use the built in warp sensor.
intellifed is when for every shot, the warp turns correct?
can i mod a carbon fiber to "intelliframe/feed" the warp?
IS THIS THE LINK FOR ONE THAT IS COMPATIBLE WITH AN ION
Where can I find the cheapest one that is compatable with the ion?
If I buy one that is only compatable with agd then cant I buy the feedneck adapter and it will work?
The one from agd is completely compatible with an ion. You will have to put 2 90 degree elbos to make it down to the warp
hey, i dont know if any techies have tested this thoroughly...but what is the peak voltage a warp board can handle? I know its around 12 somewhere...but what is the absolute frying point of the board? I have a straight 12v mod in now...but i could always get an adjustable and put it just before the frying point. let me know, thanks.