link to "12volt mod" doesnt work.... anyone have one so i can go get the stuff i need?
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link to "12volt mod" doesnt work.... anyone have one so i can go get the stuff i need?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TaCticulMerderer18
http://lukescustoms.com/page0005.htm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronobreak
Anyone have a link to the original assembly info? or if no link, the info available as an attachment to email?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronobreak
lol, no i mean to a link on how to "do it yourself"...
Yep, that's what I wanted too. :p :DQuote:
Originally Posted by TaCticulMerderer18
get 3 9 vlt connectors, and a 12 vlt(capacitor?) and hook together, and your done...its not terribly difficult and all parts can be found at radio shack
lmk if you need more help
GOOGLEZ
http://www.pbreview.com/forums/archi.../t-170230.html
enjoy
THANKS!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Chronobreak
RIGHT YOU ARE!Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveMyMagMoreThanYou
i just wanted to make ONE trip to radio shaq to get everything i needed for the 12v mod and intelli-warp mod
also... any links for the on/off mod and LED light mod?
i wanna go all out :D
what rechargable 9 volt will run the warp at great speeds.
get a 12 vlt mod if you want more speed, otherwise a good alternative is one of the rechargeable warp abttery packsQuote:
Originally Posted by madcrisis
check dealers section
otherwise any 9 vlt as long as its a good brand should be fine, but ive noticed rechargeables dont live nearly as long as regular batteries..
I was wondering if anyone had some input as to the best hopper for the warp. I have a Y grip on my 68 and with a halo I really have to wedge my hand in just to grab the drop. Anyone know of a good and small automatic hopper
The Ricochets seem to be almost made for warps. The narrow point at the front of the hopper allows you to turn the hopper to give your hand more room.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatkidfrank
Get an egg. (eveloution II or III) They take up room that you wont use. Here is pics of my old mag with a ygrip.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatkidfrank
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...h_Joshsmag.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...h_IMG_1279.jpg
I've used an eggy with a warp, but with a drop forward it tends to be in your face, because of the placing of the feedneck. Also the neck size is just a bit too small to fit tightly in a warp. (can be fixed with some tape tho) I really don't like the eggies, a bit troublesome to load and they put the weight of the gun a bit off (compared to other loaders) My favorite still is the halo, and i use one with a dent made in it for some extra clearance. The ricochet is also a good hopper to use, but since its not force fed you can outshoot it at high bps. and a good warp battery.
I have never had problems with the feedneck. It has always been too tight imo. Now the lid.....It sucks. Very hard to reload. That being said my next loader is going to be a pulse.
I will say this ONE time. You cannot outshoot the Richochet Apache without using some sort of electronic assistance. I have NEVER seen anyone shoot faster than the Apache can feed on straight semi. The GUNS can outshoot the hoppers not people.Quote:
Originally Posted by FiXeL
Ow, sorry about that... :tard:
I apologize if I sounded like a jerk, but I'm tired of people claiming they can shoot 25 bps. It's just not possible without ramping or some other electronic trick. Even if the rules allow ramping, it's usually capped at 15 bps. NPPL has no cap, but gun must be semi. So, unless you are cheating, I call foul on >20 bps claims. (No I don't accept radar chronos calcs as proof. That is only figuring out the time difference between two balls.)Quote:
Originally Posted by FiXeL
To warp feed an Ion, all you need is the AGD warp feed. Take a dremel to the 90 degree elbow that comes with it and cut off the tightening screw and it's connecting plastic. Sand it smooth and the elbow will fit snuggly into the stock feedneck or clamp into a clamping feedneck. Attatch the warp to the gun and measure your hose accordingly. No need to "waste" money on special feed necks or extra elbows.
The vibration sensor should work given the right tweek. You may have to solder an intelli wire to the solonoid for a consistant shot to feed ratio..
However, I use a QEV and a TechT L7 bolt and my warp spins on ever trigger pull with the built in vib sensor.
what is the big cell?
Quote:
Originally Posted by madcrisis
;)Quote:
Originally Posted by UTDragun
If you wire your battery connectors in parallel instead of in series you have a "big cell". "Big cells" are mostly to get you more run time, since wiring in parallel doesn't increase the voltage.Quote:
Originally Posted by madcrisis
I've finally read this whole thread. I don't have a warp yet, but I don't think I'll have to ask any questions once I get one. Thanks to everyone who put in the time!
Awesome thread... awesome bit of kit.
Used mine in the field for the first time today (it's a bit of a different setup) as more into MilSim, mounted in a pack on my back with washing machine outlet hose to feed marker... it easily kept up with my Ion powered P90. :cheers:
maybe some one can help me, i did my own battery switch mod using as micro pc toggle switch and my batter gets extremely hot in the on position. idk why it would do this can anyone shed some light. i sure i wored it right, shicne its a two prong polarity isnt an issue.
are you using 1 9volt or did you do a big cell or 12V mod?Quote:
Originally Posted by originalspyderxtra
i was using a single 9 volt but i think i found my problem, turns out that the switch i was usion was rated for .3 amps im going to pick up the same size switch that rated for 3 amps, im thinking thats my problem but idk cause i checked my 12v xboard revvy and its got the same switch that was giving me problems
hi guys
i want to know how we can clean behind the little steel plate in the warp i thinks it s the plate who take the vibration.today a ball had broke in my warp and some paint is behind this plate i need to wash it
I have searched these forums pretty well, but have not been able to find and step by step or images of how exactly to do the big cell with on/off switch mod.
Is is just the two red wires from the battery connectors (together) to the toggle switch and then to the warp, and the two black wires together straight to the warp?
Any help would be great..... pictures would be awesome.
Thanks in advance!
:shooting:
I'm guessing that I answered my own question.
I have got some problems with my Warp feed and hopefully someone here can help me out. First off the warp feed is in amazing condition. I bought it about 3 years ago and only used it about 3 times and then it stoped working and has sat in my closet ever since. Now I want to sell it but want to get it working first.
Now to the problems, it seems like my vibration sensor has stopped working because it will spin just fine when I press the white button but will not spin by vibrations. I have checked the pins and they are still in the factory setting and also I have turned the sesitivity all the way up. I have also looked for anything that is loose and there doesn't seems to be anything wrong. What else do I need to check. Thanks for all the input.
Alex
Do you have the jumper on the bottom-most pins?
Here is the manual in pdf format.
http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...structions.pdf
yeah that was the first thing that I checked. It was still there.
I tried doing a search for hooking up a warp to a SP-1 but couldn't find anything. I am doing a saw mod and I am placing the warp feed in the saw ammo box and I need to know the proper way to wire the warp into the trigger. I have seen the manuals and diagrams on AGD's site but that is for Intelli frame. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
How loud are the wrap feeds?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lufen
If you do it your going to have to fabricate it yourself. With a micro switch or something. You could just use the vibration sensor and not worry about the intelli link.
-barry
I am looking for some help with hooking my e-mag to my warp. Can anyone help me with some diagrams, or detailed instructions, and what wire I need to buy or fabricate to connect these two please. Thanks
Download this: http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...arp2Angel1.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by frankenskid
and just tap into your solenoid wires like the manual shows tapping into an angel's trigger wires unless someone suggests otherwise.
Then if you need help setting up your warp, download some manuals here: http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/manual.shtml
What is the voltage range that is acceptable for the molex plug in for the warp feed? I know the unit should be powered by 12v or less but all I've seen is 5v for the electronic switch, what is the max that I can use and still keep the unit dependable? Also, judging from the intelliframe manual, I can just set up the unit so just continuity between two wires will trip the feeder? http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/down...ntelliwarp.pdf
I'm not a paintballer, just a tank guy with a paintball cannon...www.rctankcombat.com
Thanks for that, I will look into it. Does anyone else have any better ideas?Quote:
Originally Posted by secretweaponevan