now you are connecting this intellifeed to your warp via a mini jack plug correct?
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now you are connecting this intellifeed to your warp via a mini jack plug correct?
well for the moment its not in a jack plug but it shouldnt matter as all the jack plug does it create a plug that bridges the circuit
ok, well i just thought it would be easier to work with if its in the jack so all u do is plug it in and see. have u used a voltmeter to make sure that all the wires coming from the cocker are the correct ones and supplying enough current to signal the warp?
btw anyone know teh needed current for the warp to sense the signal? try calling agd i guess
I am interested in getting a warp because i want to lower my profile. Some times those pesky front players chase me out of my back stand up and i need to hide:mad:
what i need to know is as follows.
1) does anyone make a larger bottom plate for the warp?
it will not fit with out me moving my tank to the side.
2) how can i make it feed 20+bps?
is that the 12vmod? Noise is not realy a problem, i am a loud mouth and every one knows where i am anyway.
3) is there an adapter for vert feed NON removable feed neck markers?
thank you
brandon
1) no that i know of, you sure it cant fit if u take the plate, slide it back and out to its farthest point AND move the warp out to its farthest point?
2) i believe it already feeds 20bps or close to it just as 9v. what i do HIGHLY suggest is to put in an on/off switch, and do bigcell mod, basically just wire 2 good heavy duty bat clips in there in parallel to increas mah i think it is and keep voltage the same. the increased mah will be more than enough so that as the warp spins for several seconds, it maintains its speed rather than slows down because of the lower mah one 9v batt gives.
3) i dont think there is any company made one. what gun u using? also how big is your tank? and im sure you can make a nice looking one out of pvc, and spray paint it to match the gun or sometin. basically just get a size tube that fits in teh feed neck, but is wide open enought for the balls to flow through freely.
its an 88/45 stubby and NO it wont fit =)
heck it wont fit with my 68 3k
i have tried and tried, all that happens is i get frustrated. if i owned a drill press or a welding machine i would try to build one, but i dont.
Warp 9v only feeds approx 16 tops. i know this because i have checked with 3 of them, and fed them all off of halob's
unfortunately i can hit approx 20 give or take some adrenaline<sp>
i shoot a viking, and i dont realy feel like ghetto'ing one together. and i am sure as heck not cutting my feed neck apart.
thank you
brandon
ok i never said to cut up the neck. im sure u can make one that serves teh purpose enough so that the plastic doesnt really get out in the open, and it just gets covered up by 1 the feed neck and 2 the warp adapter. now are u sure ur puttin the plate on with teh smaller slots attached to the fame and the longer ones for teh warp? and that when lookin from behind the gun, the plate is pointing foward? whats your setup? u running a drop foward? or just something like a unimount or asa? i run a 68 45 with drop and it does fit just a tad tight , but it fits. can u post a pic of the gun from front, back, and sides?
shoot and i just thought, 88, im sure its freakin wide. um. how is the tank setup? so i can help figure something out
hehe i know you did not say cut the feed neck, i have had that suggested to me b4 and i was just clearing the air in advance. ;)
i dont own a digi cam, so no i cannot post pics.
its running on a KAPP 180* swivel drop.
yes the warp is put together correctly :)
i am currently at school and dont have internet at home so i cannot describe what it looks like.
i am quite sure that security would frown on my bringing in my viking :eek:
thank you JT for your help and speedy responses.
brandon
what do u mean a 180* swivel drop, u mean a drop zone 2 or 3 or somethin? i dont think thers such a kapp drop called
swivel drop
If you want 20 BPS sustained you need to put a Halo on top of your warp feed. Halo B is the one that everyone says is faster. Its belt driven.
My warp is pretty quite. It makes a humming sound.
Yes there is an adapter for a non removable vert feed neck, its called the universal feed and its what im using.
I recently got a used warp feed, I intellifed it, (what a pain), it has no mods. I have a minimag. The guy was using the warp on an emag before. It all seems to work except the paint gets stuck. I can shoot slow , with no problems, but when I try to unload 2-3 balls get stuck. I have it fed to the bottom with a long powerfeed plug on the top. Please help.
masanche@utmb.edu
where do the balls get stuck?
Heres a couple things you could try.
Check the dwell time for my photo on the previous page. If you have 3 or 4 jumpers on dwell time consider removing them. The less jumpers you have the more the warp spins. You could try using 2 or 1 jumpers.
Also since it used. You could try a new Belt. They are $1.
http://store.airgun.com/agdprod/imag...e_belt_med.jpg
http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl..._ID=68&CATID=6
You could also try replacening the eurathane Disk for $6.
http://store.airgun.com/agdprod/imag...s/disk_med.jpg
http://store.airgun.com/acb/showdetl..._ID=79&CATID=6
can you tell us exactly where it is teh balls are getting stuck? this will make it much easier to correc the prob
where do i get this feed neck adapter?
thank you
brandon
i just bought a used warp feed and the sensitivity pot adjuster doesn't seem to work. can i fix this myself, or how much would it cost to have an agd tech fix it?
u sure everything is set right? even when turned all way counterclockwise it doesnt stop?
even if i turn it counter clockwise 10 times it still takes a whack with a screwdriver to get it feeding.
now u know if u want mroe sensitivity u turn it clockwise right?
i already tried it clockwise. that didn't work either.
What?
The balls 2-4 get stuck in the barrel (tried using diff barrels same problems), if I shoot the trigger to fast. The warp spins a little less than half way when i pull the trigger, IF I pull continously it maintains being on. Are the balls the problem as I am using dusk just to try out the warp. As to buying maintanence parts is the AGD website the best place cause their shipping is usually outrageous for a dollar belt and the sort.
thanks again.
The computer charges that shipping automatically, if you call and order I bet they'd ship normal for ya!
Well luckily alot of people asked if you could specify the problem. Which was good cause Balls can get stuck anywhere or in lots of places..Quote:
Originally posted by stormtr00per
The balls 2-4 get stuck in the barrel (tried using diff barrels same problems), if I shoot the trigger to fast. The warp spins a little less than half way when i pull the trigger, IF I pull continously it maintains being on. Are the balls the problem as I am using dusk just to try out the warp. As to buying maintanence parts is the AGD website the best place cause their shipping is usually outrageous for a dollar belt and the sort.
thanks again.
I thought maybe you were having trouble picking up balls but it sounds like you are picking up balls okay.
If you have all the jumpers turned off the warp will spin halfway. WHich is no good. Make sure the jumpers 1 or 2 are positioned as in the my picture. Like the Green Jumpers. If all the jumpers are positioned horizontally like the red ones. The dwell time is turned off and you will feed a gazillion balls.
You might also need some nubins or something. Excuse me I am new to this. To make sure that your not double feeding balls into the breech. You should have good detents on the barrels to stop the double feeds or whatever you need to keep more than one ball feding into the breech.
I am sure others will post here. Which is good because they can offer you better more knowlegable tech help than me!
ok i think you should try to find harder ball detents for ur spyder, or if its the one that uses teh little metal picee kind of like the old metal nubbins in a mag barrel, then just try to slightly bend out the metal loop so that it sticks into the chamber a lil more, i think that might be your problem. did you ever try to slightly lube the friction discs at all? stick your finger against one side and spin the warp round with teh primer button. hows it feel? a little oily? or no? if not you could try to take some gun oil like Gold Cup and use the prime button and ur finger to rub a small amount of it on each disc side. ill help more later
it sounds like its your detents, but really try to tune the warps dwell too, that will help
I will change the jumpers around, hopefully it will fix the problem (I think I read that the wheel should spin around 1/4 around.) I have used the wire and plastic nubbins which seem to hole the balls in place, but the force of the warp feeds pushes the balls forward so they get stuck, the lvl 10 keeps them from breaking. Does it ever help to feed the balls from the top of the p/f or is it better to feed from the bottom. My gun is hopper right. Where do you get more jumpers? Thanks again.
you can order jumpers from AGD's online store. as for question #2, I would like to know the answer to that one too.
You only want to feed one ball per activation. Theoretically if you constantly need to catch up. You can feed two balls per activation.
Therefore you only want to rotate the distance of 1, 1 1/4 balls or 2 balls if you need to catch up.
As far as the power feed. My best guess is loading the balls from the bottom of the powerfeed reduces your front profile. That is there would be less to shoot on top. It would also cut down your hose length and the distance your Balls have to go to reach the gun. Not to mentioned the number of Balls in route to your gun?
You could try a computer store for jumpers?
For optimal performance, reverse the polarity of the flux capacitor, 1.21 gigawats will suffice...............oops, wrong movie!:p
one last time: my sensitivity pot adjuster will not work. how much would it cost to have an agd tech fix it?
no clue, go call them. or just send it in and they should call you if they need you to pay for it, but they might warrantee it;) :rolleyes: :D
my warp is getting stuck
its like the warp is too weak to push the balls up the tube! this ruined a whole day of paintball!
its intellifed, whenever i pull the trigger the wheel will spin, it ll spin than STOP! and it wont load the balls in any further, i checked to see if there were any kinks or turns in the tube, none, i could roll a ball up a down the tube. i tried adding and removing jumpers, made no difference, than i tried a sensitive setup didnt work either.
whats wrong w/ my stinkin warp. i bought it used, either i got ripped or the warp sucks.
try a fresh, new battery, also can you post a pic of the setup so i can see what it looks like?
http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/xk3nx/lst...tos.yahoo.com/
this has a lot of diff. pics of my warp and i feed setup
i hope that ll help
and i tried multiple batteries already ill see if i can find newer ones
thanks for your help!
ok now u sure theres no tight turn in the hopper? deff try some FRESH batteries. now, does the warp just stop spinning with the balls there like it cant handle it and the motor keeps spinning? or does it spin but nothing move?
the motor spins but the disk doesnt
http://store.airgun.com/agdprod/imag...e_belt_med.jpg
Sounds like you need a new drive belt from the store. Scroll up.
thats what i was gettin to. ;) :D
agh i think imma buy a crap load of lvl X and warp parts off the store now!! ARGH!! THANKS GUYS!! SERIOUSLY THANKS ALOT~!!!!