first id suggest taking off the revvy wiring and just trying it one at a time, something could be miswired.
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first id suggest taking off the revvy wiring and just trying it one at a time, something could be miswired.
i got a question that is kinda about this and kidna not but u seem like some one that know a good deal of stuff about mags. im buying an x mag from a local prshop and it come already rigged up w/ warp feed and i dont want warp feed i was wandering of i need andyihins to put on the feed neck so i could just slap a halo on there? thanks for your time lata
The x-mag uses different breaches for the centerfeed and warpfeed. If the one you are buying has a warp breach and nocenter feed breach, you will not be able to mount a hopper directly to it. You will need a centerfeed breach. Most people ordered their x-mags with just a centerfeed or a centerfeed & warpfeed. better ask some questions and see what is included in your purchase.
the guys said that it is a warpfeed breech so how can i/ where can i buy a center feed breach?
If it does not come with an extra breach you will most likely have to inquire with AGD or AGD Europe to get another breach. I doubt yoiu will find anybody to sell you their centerfeed breach.
ahh still cant get my intelliwarp going!! clipped off the wiring for the revvy, and its doing the same thing... heres some pics..
heres the roller switch set up
http://www.jayloo.com/files/pics/800...98_3948_rs.jpg
and my warp board (wow this was hard to get a good picture of)
http://www.jayloo.com/files/pics/800...91_7029_rs.jpg
alright, what did i do wrong plz help
if you guys dont see anything im gonna go buy a new connector dealio that plugs into the warp, the solder sortof melted some plastic on it but i have know idea why that would do anything.. i didnt have enough battery life to get anymore pics though..
thanks
I just realized that if I put a jumper on the top pins and one also on the bottom pins, the warp spins from my intellifeed, but also spins from vibration.
You can unplug the intellifeed cabel and it works fine off vibration. You can also turn the tank off and just pull the trigger without any vibration and it works fine off intellifeed.
Would there be any disadvantage to running it like this in case one or the other system failed?
im going to be getting a warp feed for my rt and i have a few comment/questions
1. im going to do a link with my intell
2. im going to get the on/off 12 volt mod from havoc
3. On a new warp do you get an elbow to fit a center feed or should i just get one from agd store
http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...&categoryID=19
i FOund one at WWA for only 80$. But i have a ?. What do i have to be carful of when i dye my shells. IM going to use rite dye
you should know that the sensor is built into the right shell... so unless u wanna dip that in, u can only do 1 shell... or you can buy a new set which IMO isnt worth it.
on havoc online it says that you can dip the shells in w/ the sensors and just let them dry
Hey, I have a question, my warp wont spin when I shoot my classic valved mag. I know it is on, and I know it works, because if you push the button it will spin. I used to run an intellifeed on it, so it was never a problem. I have tried adjusting the dial on the side, but it had no effect.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
hey 02 vert cocker....
you have to take off the black housing on the right side and fix the jumpers so its on sensing mode instead of intellifeed...
i dont have my manual right now so i cant tell you the exact positions... sorry.
merry xmas.
Hi; got some questions on the warp. Any help is appreciated.
1) I did the emag power mod from robagd.com and the 12 volt regulator got too hot to touch. I added an aluminum heat sink, but the heat sink got just as hot. I'm worried about melting through my shells. Anybody do this mod?
2) Is one 9 volt battery fast enough? I had my bps set at 18 and was getting chops. Should I knock down my bps or go for the 12 volt?
3) I have the emag link on my warp and have three jumpers on the dwell. Anybody know from experience what is a good number of jumpers?
well I have my warp set with an 18volt mod and only 2 jumpers I don't have any over heating problems
Remove the shunt from the top and put it in the middle on the board right next to the plug inQuote:
Originally Posted by 02vertcocker
how long of a feed tube can you run with the warp feed???
ive heard as long as it is from a pack on you back to you gun so pretty far
I just purchased a Warp feed and a ULE hopper left body. I was planning on using the T shaped power feed (came with it) and sending the hose straight down to the warp (hopper is an Egg, so it's not in the way).
My question is... the small plastic attacment that fits perfectly when connected directly to the WL is extremely loose on the T shaped feed. Is there a piece available that fits tightly on the T-feed wih the other end fitting properly on the hose? If not, any suggestions? I was trying not to have to use tape or something.
Thanks for any info and help.
Im sorry if this question has already been asked
I heard that if you use the 12v mod, the motor will heat to higher temps than normal and melt some parts on the board. How do you prevent this?
also, is the ptp faster or same as agd's?
I haven't heard of this with a 12v mod. I have heard of people wiring up 18v and frying the board.
im running 2 9v's wired parallel so overheating
you mean no overheating? like a "big cell" set up?Quote:
Originally Posted by E r y k
2 9v's in parallel only produces 9v of output. I was talking about some people were connecting two 9v's in series for 18v of output, and that was frying the board.
yeap... no problems, battery life is extended greatly.
ive ran a good 9-10 cases through it so far... and ive probably used ~4 batts
i knew of that, but my friends board melted cuz the motor got extremely hotQuote:
Originally Posted by Jazkal
why dont they make a 18v board?
Is it possible to connect a BooYaah E-LCD frame to the Warp interface in some way, like you do with the intelliframe? Could you maybe just solder tha cables directly to the trigger microswitch?
you would be better off soldering the cables to the solenoid wires. See the 'warp to angel' guide on airgun.com.
I own a custom 98 and want to put a warp feed on. what's the difference between the agd and proteam models? so far all I can tell is some kind of angled feed neck for non-automags because of the automags slanted feed tube that allows ball entry from the bottom. the price difference between the two kits is huge, and I'd obviously like the cheaper of the two. what can you guys tell me?
I also think there is a difference in the plate that connects the warp to the gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by theVicious1
Is it something I could work around? And another concern woud be the method of activation. does the agd model come with a vibration sensor so it could feasibly be used as a universal application? And thanks for any help you guys can give me, I know I'm not an automag owner but this was the only place with a dedicated forum to the warp feed, and furthermore it isn't occupied by idiots. ever been to the pbstar forums? nuff said.
im just testing, cuz it still sais i cant post a reply :ninja:
why do all people assume the warp can only feed 12 or 16 bps. dont you people shoot fast? Ive hooked up a warp to a spyder with a rocker trigger and the warp kept up to 30 bps. :shooting:
Hey fellas, just thought I would follow up on my question with an answer. Yes the AGD warp feed works on the 98c, and yes it is bad @ss! I just put a hopper through it and it freakin rocked! sideways, upsidedown, and all over it kept shooting. I thought it might not kee up with my response trigger since I only have the single 9 volt power supply, but when I let it rip the warp feed kept up, and even managed to slip more than one round at a time past my ball detent. that is my only bad experience, but I justinstalled another jumper(making for a total of 2) so hopefully that will solve my problem. Other than that I am way happy with the product, it's performance, and it looks awesome! I like the looks, I didn't think it would look that good. the Apache hopper I've got on it just goes perfectly, I didn't need to melt/cut up my hopper at all, the apache's nose is angled just enough to let the tube rise unhindered.
Bottomline: AGD warp feed works on my 98c, so you don't have to buy the overpriced proteam model. thanks AGD, great product. If I ever go with another marker besides my Tippy(it hurts to even say that) I'm definitely getting one of your markers. The tac-one looks sweet!
i dont know if this was mentioned in the last 20 pages, but how can i adjust the warp so that it doesn't feed the balls so hard?
it is pushing them really hard, the paints shells are actually flattening under the pressure.
it is breaking lots of balls in the chamber, and has chopped a few. i think it is pushing the balls past the nubbin.
so how do i do it?
you shot 30 bps on a spyder...Quote:
Originally Posted by ben-afficial
never the less with a rocker trigger...
well if you have a 12v mod or the big cell then just take on of the 9v off and use one.Quote:
Originally Posted by wanna-b-ballin'
jsut leave soem paint in your warp for a couple days and the pressure plates should bend out thus not have the same gripping power they have now :dance:
is it modded?
get new detents for the gun perhaps, there might not be anything you can do about it