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This is a compolation of all of the Classic threads that deal with Gun/Airsystem maintenance. Post in this thread if you have questions about any of the topics discussed in these threads and they will be individually answered.
-BlackVCG
RT Color Cutaway - Gun Animations
Regulator Seat - Good vs. Bad
RT Valve Disassembly
Flatline Maintenance
E-Mag Trigger Adjustment
Hello, This is my first post.
I'm in the market for a new air tank. The tank I have now has a pre-set output pressure of 850 psi and my minimag runs great. The tank I'm looking at is a 68/4500 but the output pressure is 750 psi. will this make a big difference? My gun is in your hands now getting a rt/lvl 10 upgrade if that makes any difference in the answer.
Thanks for reading... Les
what about all of the lx threads?
Working on it...
Here is the Level 10 stuff from the Resources Section.
Level 10 Resources
Later ~ Dave
see my posts here
for a 68 automag, what kind of oil should you use? Also, how often should it be used? and can you tell me where you are supposed to put the oil and how much should be put on. Thanks for your help!
Pretty much any of the paintball gun oils on the market will work fine. Gold Cup, which comes with AGD guns is okay, but it will dry out over time. I personally use KC Trouble Free Synthetic Oil and never have replaced an o-ring due to wear.
Place 3-4 drops in the ASA, or disconnect your quick disconnect and drop it in the female end of the QD. Gas it up and with the barrel off, fire it into a towel 20-30 times to get rid of the oil mist and then put the barrel back on. If you don't take the barrel off, be sure to run a squeegee through to remove the oil that coats the inside of the barrel.
and this should be done after every time I use it?:confused:
What is the best way to clean the stock reg? And get the most consistent velocities possible.
I have a 68classic only have had it for about 2 months now, im getting a 68/4500 tank, but on the back of the gun it says rated 3000psi. Is there a new peice i can get that will work with a 4500 psi tank about about 850...? if so where what is it and how much. I am thinking about buying a ULE body and double trig frame but if i have to spend alot of valve and stuff then i dont think i can upgrade it.
poolboy51-
You should oil at least each time before you play or every other time.
faded_away15186-
All preset tanks put out a maximum of 900psi and the most you can push an adjustable tank to is about 1200psi.
This means that the most pressure the valve will see is 1200psi. The 3000psi rating means that the valve is rated to have up to 3000psi in it. The only time this will ever happen is in the catastrophic event of having your regulator fail and dumping full pressure in it.
Your valve is fine. You do not need to do any upgrades to your valve except Level 10.
Hello,
Your articles are the best I've seen. AGD should put your articles on thier technical site. I have a year old Flatline 68/4500 which has performed flawlessly until last weekend. My gun stopped cycling, so I checked the tank for air and the output gauge read 200psi. I refilled the tank, tapped the gauge, adjusted the reg and it still did not move until it spiked up to 1200psi. Disassembled, cleaned and oiled the reg which got the tank working again, but the output gauge still does not move when I attempt to adjust output. I tapped the gauge some more last night and it moved from 200psi to 400psi, then to 800 psi although I moved the reg all the way in and all the way out. pressure does not seem to change as the gun now cycles even though the gauge reads 200psi. It seems to be stuck somewhere around 800psi. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Matt
Probably just a bad gauge. I would go ahead and replace that. The bad thing is, basically all micro-gauges are junk. If you want to know what your output really is, get an Ashcroft gauge. Air America sells Ashcroft gauges with their name on them at their online site and the larger gauges are less expensive than the micro gauges. The only problem is they don't look as good...
Be certain that your spring pack is properly oriented also. There's the one end with the washer and the other end is a smaller diameter. The end with the washer faces towards the piston.
Also, I have been suggesting that people flip the reg. seat in the 4.5K Flatlines to get better flow and more reliable output. I've done this to all of my systems and no longer have creep/flow issues. It doesn't seem like it would work, but it works very well and looking at it closer, it's a better seal interface than the existing taper hole design. Take out the spring pack and adjuster, push out the piston from the stem side with the long end of a small allen wrench and then flip over the seat and push the piston back in.
I have had my automag for around 2 weeks now, and when I first tried using it, I was using C02 and a Macro line burst, I replaced the macroline and now have HPA but after I tried it again, the marker fires the 1st paintball fine, but after that the paintballs do not get sufficient air somehow and get stuck in the barrel, what I have come up with so far is that the bolt is not moving forward enough as much as it should be somehow or is kinda getting Bolt-stick, I'm getting an Automag Parts kit within the end of the week and am going to change the Power Tube Spring to try and fix the bolt-stick which is one of the problems I have (I believe is cause by short-stroking the trigger), I've also noticed that the Bolt-Stick problem occurs more with paintballs in the gun (which I believe is possibly caused by paintballs getting stuck in the barrel as well)then it does when I dry fire it. While looking through the power feed hole as I dry fired it, the bolt looks like it stops short about 1/4-1/2 the distance it should be normally moving forward to.
(with the bolt problem if the paintball comes out of the barrel it lobs about 10 feet before hitting the ground, and looks like I'm not getting enough air or am very low on air.)
Please tell me what I should do to repair the gun, if it can be done with the AutoMag Parts Kit or whatever else I would have to do.
Thank You
what's the output pressure on you HPA tank? It sounds to me like you're running at too low a pressure
My tank runs at 800 psi 45, 4500. My problem is that the first ball fired works just fine, it is just the 2nd, 3rd, ect. that are the problem and get stuck or flop.
M y air system (air america apocalypse 68 ci 3K fills) doesnt seem to be able to keep up with my X mag at high fire rates once the bottle pressure drops down to arround 1500. Any reccomenations on a:"the best " Air system to match with the X mag? or b:solutions for the currens Reg?
Cheers
Looks like it has been a while since anyone said thanks for such a great thread. My son and I used the emag trigger adjustment info to great effect when we bought a used Emag. Thanks!
which parts of the gun should u oil??
Does any one have a step by step for doing a rebuild on a rt pro with pics of each step? i was looking around and i didnt see one
Should the o-rings / seals / bumper in a Mag be replaced every year, number of balls, etc... or only if something goes wrong?
Thanks,
Eric
I haven't replaced a single o-ring in my E-Mag in the three years I've owned it. Those 90 durometer o-rings will last forever. Just use good oil and keep the valve clean and it will operate well for a long time.
Cool, thanks.
Does the bumper ever wear out?
Not sure if it's what your looking for but Warpig has a two part article on building a ULE.....Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_pizzim
OK. This all started when a cousin of mine was looking at my 'mag (X Valve minimag with intelli) I keep it on a display stand with the tank threaded only to the first thread so that the gun isn't gassed up while stored. well, the iddiot cousin screwed in the tank while he was looking at it, then put it back. It was gassed up for a week before I found out! :eek: :mad: :( I took it to my back yard and tried to fire it, but it wouldn't fire. the trigger had a nice bouncy resistance to it, but no fire. I de-gassed the marker, pulled the trigger, gassed it back up, and fired it. Just fine. I took the marker to the field the next morning. Here's the problem. If i dont shoot it for a period of about 15 minutes, I'll start a game, pull the trigger and it doesn't fire like normal.. If you pull the trigger all the way back, it won't fire, then you start to release the trigger and POP! it fires, after the first shot, it works like magic the rest of the game. let the gun sit for another 15 minutes and it does the same thing. It was irritating but I could live with it. I have since upgraded to a ULT, and am still having the same problems. but over time it seems to have gotten worse.. In a tourney this weekend it flat refused to fire before every game. I would pull the trigger and it wouldnt return or fire, it just kinda dangled there. After Bumping the side of the gun a few times with with the heel of my hand it would make a chuffing noise, kick out a ball at obout 10fps, reset, and it was fine untill next time. Something somewhere is creeping, but I don't know what... HELP!! :confused:
I think that the tac one is an awsome lookin gun. :headbang:
I got an Automag RT off of ebay. I asked the guy to send any documentation he could find with it and he said he would send some tape but never did. What I'm getting at is I have NO idea how to maintain this thing and would appreciate any and all help. I downloaded the RT manual and it helped a little. I just got the air tank filled today and when I first plugged it up to the gun I heard a constant hissing. I realize the chambers have to fill with air, but this tank dropped over 1000psi before it quit. The constant hissing could be heard through the feed tube. I assumed it wasnt' good to keep pressure in the gun so I bled all of that out after I fired the gun a few times. I fired maybe 200 rounds through the gun and judging by what I read, everything seemed normal except my airtank was over half empty. At least I dont think that should be normal because i read that I should be able to get about 1000 shots out of a fill. I don;t know if I'm just being paranoid, and or got ahold of bad information or what. I'm just looking for a few definitive answers. This is a link to the auction. If anyone can identity exactly what model I have, maybe I can figure out more of this stuff on my own. But like I said earlier, any and all help is greatly appreciated because I don't know what the hell im doing! :\ Thanks in advance.
http://www.airgun.com/Techinfo.shtmlQuote:
Originally Posted by prozac4545
http://www.automags.org/resource/tech/magfaqs.shtml
http://pbnation.com/showthread.php?threadid=111726
Also, do a search on AO.com for "leaks down barrel."
Sounds like you just need to purchase a $20 rebuild kit and replace o-rings as that gun is pretty old.
After that, you only need to put 6 drops of oil in the hose ASA and dry fire without the barrel to lube everything.
I have one of the best barrels, a Boomstick, out there for that gun which I still use only cocker threaded with a ULE body. Check my sig for stuff for sale.
Good Luck and welcome to AO.com. Mags are still my favorite!!!
Matt
I bought a used Minimag off some guy I know. It appears to be stock with a single trigger, but does have maybe the Black Ice Expansion chamber on it. Not sure what bolt it has. I have had no real problems with it, and have run about 5,000 rounds through it. The only thing I have noticed is that if I fire repeatadly and quickly, there seems to be an air loss or it acts as if the bolt can't keep up. I have done the 15 second trigger pull test, and there are no leaks. If I shoot fairly quickly repeatadly, there are no problems. Any thoughts/suggestions of things to look for/fix would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Shoot straight, shoot often...
I have read all the posts about oiling the gun. Why does my mag have two small holes on the bottom that say "oil" between them if we are only supposed to add oil through the ASA?
Thanks
Branko
Those "oil" holes just get a bit of oil on the piston and spring pack. In order to oil the reg. seat, on/off and powertube o-rings, you need to put oil in the ASA.
:confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackVCG
ok, im haven a prob with my retro valve, it was workin fine, and then i cleaned it and put it and put it back together, and now it wont shoot! there is pressure behind the trigger when i gas it up, but it isnt shooting! i have had a similar prob before, when i first got this gun, but it he sear then, but i have replaced it since then. do you know what the prob is?
I have a Tac One and it is working fine. The only problem is my Worr 3000 PSI tank leaks like crazy when i put it on and yes it does have a good o-ring. The weird thing is if you turn it in the exact right spot it will stop leaking or at least not as loud. What is the problem? I have a feeling the tank might be defective.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Death 105
I just bought a Tac One and the first day of field play I experienced the same thing. I kinda sorta thought it was an O'Ring issue and then realized that it was a new ASA hookup. Maybe I didn't screw the tank in all the way or the threads seemed to stop without sealing the bottle all the way in and I assumed it was fully seated. Either way, I did hear my air leaking and thought it was a rental gun when it was my own and turning the bottle inward caused the air to leak even more nd backing it off, sealed it. Of course it was a new o'ring and all and I didn't have a clue as to why it was leaking. I unscrewed the tank and reinserted it back into the valve and think that originally it wasn't fully seated all the way due to the new ASA adaper threads and non realizing that even though the tank seemed to stop screwing in, it still had a few more turns left to seal the o'ring. After lunch, I removed the tank and reinstalled it several times to assure myself that the tank was fully inserted into the ASA fitting. I think it was just a matter of breaking in and matching the new threads of my tank to the ASA threads to fully seat it.
I replaced my factory installed ASA from Air Gun Designs and haven't had any problems since. I think the problem was with the new ASA adapter and even though I checked out the threads in it, couldn't find anything noticeable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Drego
Ok, I have a very neglected Automag Classic which I am now wanting to bring back into play. I haven't played for some years now and I started out with a whole O-Ring/Spring kit to get her back to working condition. I was wanting to buy a good double trigger grip but not the AGD IntelliFrame, it is a little out of my price range. Any suggestions on a good grip with a double trigger would be great. Thanks!
I have a minimag that I bought used about 3 years ago. Just about the only thing stock still on it is the valve, but I'm planning on replacing it with an X valve soon. I used to run a preset pure energy 48 3000 tank, but it went and I need to buy a new tank. Any suggestions? Pressure output? Thanks.
I have three different reg set-ups. A stock AM reg with L10 running fine on compressed air, A stock R/T L7 running on air, I think fine but I need a fill, and a stock AM L7, currently hooked to CO2. I'm having some trouble with the last reg, I replaced all of the o-rings and it's venting where the two halves come together pretty bad. I still have to replace the reg valve pin, reg seat, reg piston assy, and spring pack assy to have new internals. Does this sound like it will solve the problem?
Finally to the gas. I'm thinking about getting a fifty pound CO2 to do it at home. I know that everyone uses air, but the tanks run out so fast and the comperssers are expensive. Will the AM reg with L10 and/ or the R/T L7 work with CO2? Is there another gas that I should consider buying? There is a large Gas Supply Co. in my county, I should be able to get just about anything and I'm looking for recomendations ie: hospital grade air, nitrogen, etc. I want to price out the best thing to put through these guns. One feature that I like about CO2 is that you get a lot more shots per 20oz. I'm a big guy, I've considered a SCUBA tank remote on my back. I don't care too much about the weight but I really don't like the hoses getting in the way when I switch hands.
Thanks, Gabe.
P.S. Is there a gas that I can use that will shoot flames out the barrel and not blow up in my hands? Stupid question, I know, but it would be cool!! :shooting: