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Thread: ? about morlock board

  1. #1
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    ? about morlock board

    I have been wondering this awile what exactly is a morlock board and how do you find one and how much do they cost? any answers are appreciated
    thanks
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  2. #2
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    The Morlock is a universal board to fit most guns. The installation is quite tricky. about 125.00
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  3. #3
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    The Morlock is a "universal" electronic paintball gun controller board. You can get them from KM2 at www.exarin.com

    The Morlock is a tiny (1/2" by less than 2" long) fully-programmable circuit board that can be tuned and fitted to any electro paintball gun out there. It can be set to operate single-solenoid markers (Angels, Impulses, Intimidators, Bushmasters, etc) or twin-solenoid markers (older Shockers, E-Cockers, Sandridges, Excaliburs, etc.)

    It can also be wired and programmed to operate any anti-chop eye (both beam-break, which are included with the 'lock, and reflective eyes) and in single-'noid configurations can be programmed to operate Intellifeeds and/or WarpFeeds.

    It's fully programmable for both solenoid "on" times, holdoff times, dwells, ROF caps, and of course all the fire modes (FA, autoresponse, turbo, semi, all tourney-lockable.)

    However, it's not a "drop in" kit for any gun- it's universal, meaning you get a board, some wires and a connector, and you have to install it (or have it installed.) It also doesn't drive any LED or LCD displays- you can install it in an LCD Angel or Speed, or an E-Mag, but you'll lose the readouts/displays.

    It has no ultimate ROF cap- If your marker only needs 25 milliseconds to complete a firing cycle, it'll give you 40 cps.

    It'll run on anything over 5V, and as I recall can take up to 30V without breaking a sweat.

    I've used several in custom electro applications (my own E-Cocker and a RaceGun conversion, for two...) and they're good kit. Don't buy it and plunk it in if you're happy with your stock board, though. Only consider it if you're looking for a specific perfromance mod- IE, bypassing a stock board's BPS cap, for example.

    Doc.

  4. #4
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    Thanks alot guys i really appreciate the info

  5. #5
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    hey, i have a warlock(emagnum) board fully installed and setup in my gun and the guy i bought it from told me that it was capped at 24.4 bps. also, it has several modes, like turbo and full auto, which is sorta neat, especially turbo, since some fields actually allow it. also, it is programmed using the trigger, so you dont have to take off the gripframe and work with all the dip switches and stuff. i love mine, and it shoots incrediably fast, and at the same time is really small and easy to use. just the only bad thing is that if they are not setup just right, then they will not work very well.

  6. #6
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    hey, i have a warlock(emagnum) board fully installed and setup in my gun and the guy i bought it from told me that it was capped at 24.4 bps.
    -Of course. It's probably set to a 40 millisecond cycle time, probably 30 to 35 Ms solenoid-on, and the rest "holdoff", or the wait for the gun to finish cycling and be ready for the next shot.

    Don't confuse "no ROF cap" as theoretically unlimited BPS, as some manufacturers have touted in their somewhat inflated advertising hype.

    It takes time for the gun to cycle- any gun. An Intimidator might complete it's full cycle in (as a guess) forty milliseconds (thousandths of a second) or so. Something like a Shocker, the old style, takes easily closer to 90 milliseconds to fire, open the bolt, rechamber a ball and refill the dump chamber.

    The 'Timmy would then have a maximum ROF of 25bps, while the Shocker could only get a little over 11/sec.

    It's not the board that's capped, it's the gun itself. In the older Shockers, the board was, indeed, capped- 11.2/sec was as fast as it could be set to go. (And later installs of other controllers showed the gun itself had enormous difficulty exceeding that limit, no matter how fast the software.) But in the case of the Morlock, the ultimate limit is the gun.

    (Curt once told me that the Morlock's chip cycled at such-and-such a Mhz, and with his instruction set, that "clock speed" was therefore good enough to sustain 5,000 cycles per second.)

    The Morlock (which is what a Warlock is) could have a theoretical max ROF setting of... what, 300 bps? If you turned all the on-times, holdoffs and dwells down to zero or one. Of course, no marker will operate at those speeds, and even just a bare solenoid will hardly react (let alone cycle properly) with a one-millisecond pulse of electricity, so that number is of course purely theoretical (much like other makers' claims of 66.6 CPS and so on.)

    Doc.

  7. #7
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    I have one in a tribal. It works very well, it fits in the space where the original board was. I have mine set up for a total of 58ms (about 17bps) and with the break beam eyes, it doesnt chop. You can take a look here:

    http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hreadid=100133

  8. #8
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    MORLOCK/WAS

    OK, got a question: the Morlock sounds great and very usable, what I was wondering is with the correct setup, could a WAS board be used just as easily as a Morlock board even if it isn't for an AKA marker or a Timmy? Like if an E-cocker used a 4-way Timmy solenoid for the 4-way up front and another in the trigger frame as WGP does, could a cocker be set up with with a switch-activated WAS board as easily as a Morlock board can be used?

  9. #9
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    It might be posible, but if the WAS board is made for single solenoid guns, the timing for the sear release vs cocking action might be dificult to set.

  10. #10
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    single

    Oh ok, but for single solenoid function it works fine and would work in any single solenoid marker if set up right? Cool, cool...

  11. #11
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    the biggest problems you will run into will be connecting the wires and using an anti chop eye.

    the wires wont be so bad if you can get ahold of some of the connectors, but if you plan on using an ACE system you may encounter some problems if you dont want to use the same kind of eye. for example the timmy and viking use a break beam, but the impulse and X-Mag use a reflective eye. the open bolt beam break will NOT fire if beam is detected, while the open bolt reflective will ONLY fire if the beam is detected (ie: beam has succesfuly bounced of a ball that is chamberd and ready to go. the morlock can be set to respond either way on the otherhand.

    and when it comes right down to it, the timmy/aka only WAS EQ is pushing $140 while the morlock which can work on virtually any marker is 10 or 20 less and prob half the head ache.


    i have a morlock in my viking as well, and it is absolutlly amazing, honeslty one of the best upgrades for a marker that i have EVER bought, and the only one that has been worth every single penny (it was however before the WAS boards came out for AKA's so now its not such a big deal)
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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  12. #12
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    The morlock also seems to have some sort of shot buffering. In my marker with the eyes on, if you pull the trigger without a ball chabered, the board will wait about half a second for the ball to break the beam and then fire. If it takes longer then you have to pull the trigger again to fire.

    I am going to try a long cycle time to see if it will store the second pull and fire when the first cycle finishes.

  13. #13
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    It's not shot buffering, the delay when the eyes are on but the chamber is empty is a "safety" feature. If the eyes don't detect a ball, but the trigger is still held down, the software "assumes" you're trying to dry-fire (say, to relieve pressure from the gun after shutting it down for the day.)

    The long delay (0.75 second) is also a dead-eye/painted-eye safety: if you did manage to break a ball in the gun, and the eyes are covered with paint, it gives a full 3/4-second to make damn sure the ball has chambered (the assumption is there's goop in there keeping it from falling as fast) before it allows it to fire.

    There is no shot buffering that I'm aware of.

    Also, the Morlock can use either break-beam or reflective eyes. You just have to program it to work with whatever set you're using (register 11, as I recall.)

    Doc.

  14. #14
    I assume this thing comes with a manual that tells you where all theregisters are that control the timing, eyes, etc.

    what kind of programmer does it use? anything special or does a standard serial port work?

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  15. #15
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    To program it you hold the trigger while powering it up. It goes into program mode, where you just click the trigger to select a register, select options, enter the # of ms of timing, ect. its real easy once you learn the number that corresponds to the options you need.

    In my case i use register 3 for dwell, 6 for cycle delay (ROF), 8 for the eye on/off, and 11 for the eye mode.
    Register 1 is the mode of fire.

    I also did test the shot buffering capabilities of the board. It does seem to have them, since i set the cycle delay to 250 ms, and pulled the trigger as fast as i could just 3 times. The gun fired all 3 shots it registerd even if the last one was after i had finished pulling. I did this a couple of times, and it never missed a pull.

    As far as the eye is concerned, with the break-beam eye the board will not fire unless the beam is broken, but if it gets stuck blocked, it will flash the led and slow down to prevent chops.

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