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Thread: ULE Trigger Review and Whatnots

  1. #1

    ULE Trigger Review and Whatnots

    ...and whippersnapps! Ok..enough of that. If this is the wrong forum just please move it. Lets cut down to the chase. On the previous Friday I received my ULE Trigger kit and nearly wet my pants. Opening the small packaging I realize that ....(well an hour later) the On/Off is already assembled, heh. So after an hour of wandering what I have to put together exactly, and realizing that the pin is quite intact, I went away to installing. They really should include some instructions for this thing though, as somebody who isn't familiar with AO may buy this and have no clue what to do. Thanks to the Chat and helpful forum members I eventually got this puppy installed nice and clean. OK, onto the next thing. Fine tuning this took QUITE SOME TIME! but it was all expected. I ended up actually using Level Ten and ULT shims for best performance, as I think right now im using two ULT shims and one Level Ten shim. If anybody wants pictures of installation I can get them and whatnot, but its really not much to see. ONTO the working aspects of the trigger. I bought this trigger because something was terribly wrong with my on/off as somebody said in my X-Valve and rather than buy a new assembly it was chosen to get this kit. Putting in around 820 psi through my valve I did see a bit of noticable reactivity and sweetspots, so I tried adjusting (my X-Stream tank is horrible) to 800 and it pretty much got rid of the sweetspots. So, shooting some paint I realize I CAN! Walk this thing, it is definately walkable. I was probably putting in around 810-815 with just on the verge of sweetspots to walk it, and you can only hit around 9bps walking because then ya start to get bolt stick, but it is walkable. Shooting the trigger in a normal way, I noticed it is much easier to get the chuff then expected. I actually only broke one ball on the tip of my barrel so far, the others have luckily just lobbed out (thank you very much bad paint to barrel match).

    ONTO THE NEXT DAY: Practice: DHP: In the snake one game my trigger just stopped all together, no bolt stick, no nothing, just had to turn off (have a check it, so its kinda hurting to do so) and regas the marker to get the trigger cocked once again. I noticed this problem several times working on the trigger the day before but got this a few times in games...not good at all, luckily all the games were against newer teams and not against Redz. The trigger seemed to fly quite nicely walking, but I still prefer the older style on/off otherwise, its just a cleaner trigger pull when popping the trigger with reactivity IMO. The possibility of things like bolt stick made me weary all day, but luckily nothing major had happened. I fired about ....3000 shots worth of air to get the walking down, only to find that the trigger is on and off between runaway. At lower pressures such as 820psi I was getting a bit of sweetspots...so I do not think the only thing wrong with my mag was the on/off, who knows. But, when shooting the trigger with 800psi cranked in I did notice...walkability....is gone baby. I would not recommend trying to walk this trigger if you aren't putting in at least 850 on a normal input (mine is all wacky). You get incredibly bolt stick, short stroking, and things where the trigger just stops altogether.

    Conclusion: Yes the almighty conclusion. Here goes: I like it, but I kinda dont like it. I was aware that when buying it short stroking and bolt stick are possible, and while they do not happen much, it is not worth it to me or my team to have problems happen. Any backplayers interested in raising their speed...I wouldn't recommend this to, as you are very valuable and do not want any problems. It is very kool as percieved by everyone at DHP to have a walkable mechanical trigger but the snake incident was kinda hurting on how well I liked it all day. So, in final conclusive..conclusion? ; I will say that it is for some people, definately not for all. I would prefer to have my old trigger setup back as I know it was more reliable then, but as of now I cannot do so. For now I will use the GZ, only because the mag is sort of a letdown now. If I happen to run into an Airgun tech maybe they can fine tune it, but at what I have used and liked and disliked I must say in finale that the trigger while nice, certainly should be thought of whether it will benefit your situation, or not. Thanks - Wobbles82
    2 da k da 2 Timmah.

    Oh..it shoots da 620:1 .No problemo.

  2. #2
    Oh yeh....heres a pic of the mag. ..down further ,sorry about that had to change the size of the pic, made an extra one just for you Dinger, know you love to oogle them mags.
    Last edited by wobbles82; 09-23-2003 at 03:44 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    pic of the mag you say??

    i think not!!

    [i dont see any pic :o]
    Currently the 186th top poster on AO!! member# 13650
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    "... i splooge when i touch it
    ~Ultimatepaintballer

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    The bolt stick is from the LvL 10 not having enough shims. Add a couple shims to the bolt (not the ULT) and it should work fine. THe ULT brings out problems like bolt stick but by itself can not cause it.

    AGD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2002
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    Originally posted by AGD
    The bolt stick is from the LvL 10 not having enough shims. Add a couple shims to the bolt (not the ULT) and it should work fine. THe ULT brings out problems like bolt stick but by itself can not cause it.

    AGD
    Something for a ULT trouble shooting guide.
    A proud Canadian EH

  6. #6
    A trouble shooting guide sounds great if ya ask me. I am going to fix the mag up some more tonight, but I still stand by me not using it. (Thanks for the tip TK, ill get on it!) Oh well, Ill prolly have my E-Mag ready to go by Miami, black and yellow, oh yeaaaa. Heres the pics:
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7

    A lil extra

    Here ya go ! Thats my little Silky Terrier...a.k.a. Soon to be Sydarm owner..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
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    Newton, MA :) (Moved, but still a Boston boy!)
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    914

    troubleshoot

    Althought Lvl 10 shims are important, and in no way do I aim to contradict Tom as he knows 50X more than me, but the stick issue may not be entirely related to shims. When I ran into problems and the sear pin wasn't even resetting, I had as many shims in my Lvl10 as possible and the loosest carrier possible. It came down to thoroughly lubing ALL components of the Lvl10 and ULT, more than I was used to before I got it. So give that a shot.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
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    713
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    What he said. I had the exact same thing. When tuning mine, I found out that at 900 psi it sweetspots, so I took out 1 ULT shim and left the pressure there. That was one of the things (I believe) that fixed my bolt stick problem. When I ran my preset (it was @750), I had all sorts of boltstick. I have since gotten a Dynaflow, upped the pressure, lubed the heck outa EVERYTHING, and all my bolt stick problems went away. That was without changing anything in the level 10. So, if your adjustable goes that high wobbles, try running even more pressure into it and tuning your reactivity solely by shim adjustments. I also checked my shims with a set of micrometers and found out the exact size of my shims. The ULT shims were .006" and the LX shims were .0105". Knowing this, and not assuming that the LX shims are exactly double the size, you can really tune it by finding different combinations with varying numbers of each shim. I currently have 2 LX shims and 2 ULT shims. For my review of this, lets just say that I have put my original on/off back in a few times, and to tell you the truth, it wouldn't upset me one bit if I lost it. A great upgrade for those people who have X-valves, and most importantly know how it works and how to tune it PERFECTLY.

    My .02
    Cobalt DM4
    Team Synapsis
    THE GARDNER BROS ARE AS COOL AS HERPES

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